RichCape

My wife's Lexus RX300 has 114,000 miles on her. A local mechanic tells me my valve covers are starting to seep. I can see no sign of oil, nor smell any, from looking in at the engine. The car does not burn oil. The job will run $450 dollars.

My instinct is to wait on the job. I don't know enough about the Lexus RX300 series to be comfortable with my views on the matter.

Anyone with more knowledge on the subject have a thought as to how I should handle this?

Thanks,

Rich
Cape Cod and AZ

JAB

Mine has 210K and the valve covers did not start to leak noticeably until relatively recently. Moist, yes; but leak, no.

hypervish

My rear valve cover started to leak exactly a year ago from today at 169k miles (I looked up the date in my service history, I swear I didn't memorize the date...lol).

I had the gasket replaced after confirming that it was leaking. I paid $350 for both the front and rear valve cover gasket to be replaced. I now have 190k miles and everything is leak free.

carguy07

No oil loss, can't see it, can't smell it, forget about it until it is either making a mess or stinks and bothers you. IMO

RichCape

Carguy07:

That was my initial instinct as well. I'll take your advice.

Thanks,

Rich

code58

Carguy= good advise!

Bobster999

I replaced mine about 2 weeks ago. If it werent for the fact that i smelled strong oil burning I wouldnt have replaced them. PS....its no fun...

RichCape

Well, I guess the key words in what the mechanic wrote down is "starting to seep."

I won't be too **** about it.

Rich

salimshah

Please post a DIY if you can. Or even what things you had to remove.

Thanks

Salim

Bobster999

I didnt document anything as I believe this has probably been discussed here already. The bottom line is that you must remove the intake manifold. So you just look and see what needs to come off to remove the manifold as you progress. I do recommend taking a few pics of the vacuum lines, throttle body, cold air intake area just in case you forget where a line goes. Everything is fairly straight forward and easy except for the 14 mm bolt that holds the manifold to the brace and also the rear ground strap on the manifold. There are 2 grounds on the manifold. I used a cutoff wheel to trim the brace so i could re-install the 14mm bolt on re-assembly. Also, I recommend replacing your spark plugs while the intake is off. Any questions and I will answer them?

salimshah

Which cover did you remove, rear (#1,3,5) or the front (#2,4,6)?
If rear, then do you need to remove the cowl?
If you can kindly look at the knock sensor DIY, at which step do you stop?
Any shot cuts?

Thanks

Salim

Bobster999

I replaced both front and rear covers. I looked at your DIY and it looks like step 15 is where you go to and then just unbolt the V/C and remove it. I didnt remove the cowl.

salimshah

That makes me wonder if undoing the cowl will make the access to the rear a breeze? Just wondering till some one tries it out.

Thank you Bobster.

Salim

aznlapin

I was changing out my brake fluid with ATE TYP200 today on my 2002 AWD when I looked up (was on a creeper) and saw the rear valve cover seal area shiny with oil. Looks like it's been seeping quite a bit and some of it made it all the way to the water pump pulley.
Haven't noticed any noticeable leaks or new spots on the garage floor Should I be concerned?

Pics of the area.

salimshah

In pursuit of perfection, you may like to remove the cover and replace the gasket. If I were you, I would just clip the hose that has come off the "c" holder in your picture and call it quits. ie the leak is not work fixing at this stage. ymmv

Salim