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Definitely keep an eye on your oil, buddy!! These 1st gen RXs are drippers... they'll drip oil until they're out. I have to add about 1qt per 1000-1500 miles travel or per month whichever comes first.
Just want you to be aware, because an engine rebuild costs about $4500 (or at least mine did).
Best of luck to you and keep turning that wrench... it'll save you thousands!
Well, I gave it a try and was only about 25% successful. It took me a while to even find each solenoid and then I couldn't seem to get the hoses off (my experience with mods and DIY's is more oriented to interiors, electronics and lighting). I got the front solenoid out then couldn't find the filter....
Originally Posted by BearsLexus
Step 4-
In this picture you can clearly see the Rear Bank Solenoid port and to the right is the Filter Bolt.
I have also included pictures here of the filter and bolt. These are before cleaning and after.
1- Use your Ratchet and the 14mm socket to remove the Filter retaining bolt.
2- Pull out the Filter using your small needle nose pliers, being careful as it is plastic and nylon.
3- Clean the Filter - I used WD40 and a shop towel - be sure to clean this well.
4- Put your cleaned filter back into its port and replace the 14mm bolt - don't forget its washer/gasket!
The solenoids were easier to locate as I had the new ones to help me know what I was looking for, i.e. the offset mount and electrical connection. I guess if I had gotten the rear one out I'd have seen the filter bolt from Bears' pic above, but can anyone help me locate the front filter?? Is it visible in this photo?:
As it stands, I did replace that front solenoid, even though I didn't find or clean the filter. CEL stayed on and came back on after clearing, but it seems to be running okay, at least for now. I may take another stab at this if I get some clue as to where the filters are, or otherwise I bring it to a mechanic and tell him my sad DIY story....
Thank you very much, BearsLexus! This thread allowed me to diagnose the symptoms my RX was experiencing, which were just as you described. I also had error codes P302, P304, P306, & P1354. I pulled out the Bank2 filter and cleaned it even though it wasn't very dirty. I also pulled the OCV and bench tested it with the vehicle battery as suggested in the thread. It actuated just fine. So I reinstalled it, thinking maybe the filter cleaning was all that was needed.
Well, P1354 and P302 returned, as did the rough running, no overdrive, etc. symptoms. So I pulled the OCV today and installed the Dorman unit. Unfortunately, the symptoms are still there. Code P1354 is gone, but now I'm getting P306. I am at a loss at this point. I can try servicing Bank1 even though none of the codes point to any issues there. Would any of you happen to have any other ideas? I have read some threads that suggest the problem could be related to the throttle position sensor or ignition coil, but it just doesn't make sense. Everything going on with my RX was just as described by Bear and others. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Thank you very much, BearsLexus! This thread allowed me to diagnose the symptoms my RX was experiencing, which were just as you described. I also had error codes P302, P304, P306, & P1354. I pulled out the Bank2 filter and cleaned it even though it wasn't very dirty. I also pulled the OCV and bench tested it with the vehicle battery as suggested in the thread. It actuated just fine. So I reinstalled it, thinking maybe the filter cleaning was all that was needed.
Well, P1354 and P302 returned, as did the rough running, no overdrive, etc. symptoms. So I pulled the OCV today and installed the Dorman unit. Unfortunately, the symptoms are still there. Code P1354 is gone, but now I'm getting P306. I am at a loss at this point. I can try servicing Bank1 even though none of the codes point to any issues there. Would any of you happen to have any other ideas? I have read some threads that suggest the problem could be related to the throttle position sensor or ignition coil, but it just doesn't make sense. Everything going on with my RX was just as described by Bear and others. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Did you clear the codes after changing the OCV? Personally I am not in favor of any after market sensor/valve.
Thanks, Salim. Next time I'll be more patient and order genuine parts instead of running out to the local auto supply store.
Yes I did clear the codes, and P306 is what came back. I did think of one more thing since yesterday. I have seen mention of o-rings at the filter and the OCV, but I did not see an o-ring on the filter nut when I removed it, and the only o-ring on the OCV is actually attached to the valve. Could a missing o-ring in either place cause loss of pressure and so improper function of the OCV? If so, I guess the question then becomes, what happened to my o-ring?
I think I have also read that perhaps I could have an ECU problem. Any thoughts on that?
Thank you, gents, for your suggestions. I dropped the RX off at the shop today so they can take a look tomorrow. My wife can't be without her vehicle anymore. Too bad the fix was not straightforward for me. I will let you know what I find out.
Here's some quick follow-up to my last post in November. The shop ended up changing all of the spark plugs, as well as one of the ignition coils. The problem seemed to be fixed, but I did notice that it didn't shift into overdrive a few days later, just one time. Then we left for the holidays. We came back yesterday, and after an hour or so of driving, the CEL came back on. So back to the shop we go this Friday. I recall the guy there saying something back on November about these engines having trouble when they get older. We're at 310k miles now on a year 2000 model. Anyway, we'll see what they say this time.
Recently purchased a 99 Lexus LS 400 with all records and less than 138000 miles, 2 owners, last one had it for 15+ years. Put struts and springs, new tires all around, replaced one valve cover gasket (slight leak) and was loving the "new" used car until we had a cold snap about first week of Jan. Started it up went for a drive, check engine light came on and VSC warning light, plus the red dot light on. Found this sight, tried the EZ fix recommended first, unhook battery, and check the gas cap. Hooked up, no lights on, then drove it about 20 miles and same warnings came on. At my destination, my car almost sounded and felt like it was killing at a stop light, and on and off the next couple of days. Found a local shop that specialized in foreign cars, recommended by two people, and took it in for diagnosis. Code came up P1354 (for VVT system fault, bank 2. Oil level was over a quart low (I had just checked it 50 miles ago and it was at the max line) They cleared the code after oil service, calibrated YAW rate sensor. Neither code returned. I came paid my bill and as I drove off, the same darn warnings came on.
They have kept the car for about a week, and ended up replacing the VVT control valve, passenger side. Parts were Camshaft Solenoid Adjust-Right, Breather hose, and Hose, Air No.6, along with a few shop supplies. They did not charge me again for the diagnosis, and today I picked up the car, drove it and seems to run better than before the problems. Since I have no auto mechanical abilities, this cost me $167 (oil, filter, diagnosis, and repair to eliminate the code), the first time, and $541.57 today ($264.60 of that is labor). If it runs well, I am fine with that cost, I was guessing it would be more.
I had my bank 2 VVT (Oil Control) Valve replaced last week. It was about $250 or so. I thought it was reasonable given my lack of time and tools. My first one went out at 150K miles and this one went out at 251K miles. I'd say that's OK for reasonable usage level.
Here's some quick follow-up to my last post in November. The shop ended up changing all of the spark plugs, as well as one of the ignition coils. The problem seemed to be fixed, but I did notice that it didn't shift into overdrive a few days later, just one time. Then we left for the holidays. We came back yesterday, and after an hour or so of driving, the CEL came back on. So back to the shop we go this Friday. I recall the guy there saying something back on November about these engines having trouble when they get older. We're at 310k miles now on a year 2000 model. Anyway, we'll see what they say this time.
Wow, that's great!
Are you on the original transmission?
Hi folks, new guy here, I just finished replacing my VVT solenoid on my toyota (it isn't a lexus but a not so distant cousin) after I had my engine diagnosed following a check engine light. I managed to do it without much problem but I noticed something that I'm not so sure what to think of. After removing the VVT solenoid, I looked into the opening on the assembly and it looked to me that there's a piece of the base of the opening that has been chipped-off. It could of course be just be the way it is, i'd like to think so, but would like to hear some opinions. I've attached some images I took before replacing the new solenoid.
Thanks!
BTW: It's a 2006, toyota vios, a subcompact they sell in southeast asia.
03-14-16, 07:12 AM
VVT Control Valve problems
