Roberto1

Thank you very much guys, my car runs much better now.

yourrx300

Hello Salimsha and BreasLexus, thanks for your excellent DIY procedure. I am able to remove those solenoids. Struggling to remove the screens. I may need a long ratchet more than 12" to reach the back oil screen.

My question: where is the location of the FRONT OCV Oil Screen? You said it is in post #3 green box. I do not think it shows the nut for the oil screen. Could help you help me to locate that.
Thanks for the help

salimshah

Once you remove the bolt, the screen will pull out with it. If not then you will need tweezers to pull it out. Remember the direction the screen comes out (it is conical). If you flip it, it will get crushed and you will loose any filtration it does.

See Post #5. The other is somewhat similar.

Credits need to go Bear and Bear alone.

Salim

yourrx300

Thanks SalimShaw, I think I confused you.
My question: where is the location of the FRONT OCV Oil Screen? Which bolt I need to remove to access the screen. Rear one, I can see in the posts but not the front one. I am specifically looking for a bolt to remove to access the screen.
Thanks

yourrx300

Please do not bother. I figured out. It is on the right side about an inch below the solenoid.
I will take a picture of the location and post soon.

Thanks

salimshah

Its never a bother. Glad you figured it out.

Salim

RLwhaler

Awesome post everyone! I managed to changed out mine 2 months ago.

JazzyQuinn

Very helpful post, I will be trying this on my es300 sometime this week.

Barceloj

I too had the VSC light go on AND dropped the bolt... UGH! What a pain that was, so many places for it to get lost. I did find out, by looking for the bolt, that removing the air-filter, though a little more work, made getting to the rear solenoid and filter SO much easier.

CharBaby

I don't have any CEL codes pertaining to the OCV/VVT-i... Or any CEL's that I haven't been able to cure(O2, A/F Sensors, EVAP).

My '01 RX-300(purchaced new) starts and idles fine, and runs well too BUT, exceleration is lethargic. Take off from a standing start has lost 2 sec from 0-60 and it really feels slow. Once moving, it's fine. I have performed all oil/filter changes(probably waaaaay toooo early) with oils held in high regard(mosty my own syn/blend) and since sludge is a known issue, I didn't want to take any chances. My oil always looks good/clean-ish when doing an OCI. No Oil Useage between OCI's.

I've used PuroClassic & PureONE Filters mostly with an occassional WIX/NAPA or FRAM, STP, DENSO etc.
Syn oils used: PP, QSUD, VSP, Castrol SynTech, HavSyn etc. And for Dino oils, PYB, QSGB, VWB, HavDino. You get the picture

I will attempt to remove the OCV and clean the screens. I won't replace the OCV as I don't have any of the issues that were mentioned in this thread...just slow exceleration. As of July, 2014, we have 92K miles on the clock with me doing all of the maintenance including all fluid changes(ATF, P/S, Coolant, Brake flushes etc.). Again, probably way too soon on all fluids.

0-60
New and for the first couple of years...8.6-8.8 sec
For the past several years...10 sec or longer!!!
Also:
12-18 month ATF Changes(D&F)
3k-5k OCI
3 year coolant Toyota RED
2 year Brake Flushes
2 year P/S D&F
3 year Diff & TC D&F's
So, you can get an idea of this RX's maintenance schedule!
I have cleaned or replaced the IAC, TB, MAF, PCV...Again, NO CEL's pertaining to this system.

I'm not sure if cleaning the screens and replacing the OCV will change things but, I'll give it a try!

Thank you, this has been a GREAT thread!

CharBaby

UpDate:
Everything in both of the OCV's were fine. The screens were perfecly clean and the OCV's moved up/down freely. I can 't answer for the electrical portion of these OCV's as I had no power source to activate them. Is there a way to do this?

salimshah

You have the 12v battery.

I used alligator clips and wires to test out mine. Dont remember which pin is + and which is - .

Salim

CharBaby

Yeah, I didn't know if I could connect straight to the 12v battery in the car or I would have tried it. I may try romoving them again as the job wasn't hard itself, though the rear screen/filter was a bit difficult to get out. So, I may give it another try just to check the OCV's movements(not removing the screens) when connected to the 12v.

But keeping in mind, I HAVE NO CEL's!!!

Thanks,
CB

nestor32

Another happy ending thanks to your DYI post !!! Many thanks for your clear instructions.
Just to confirm, Lexus RX300 I had CEL-P1354 with rough ride with abrupt change in RPMs even if throttle was constant. Some loss of torque as well, engine stopped while negotiating a steep driveway. As soon as I replaced the Front Bank OCV, the enginene was happy and the CEL cleared after a short test drive. I had a bit of an issue removing the valve, most likely because of the rubber o-ring. I gently rotated and pulled at the same time without breaking it. When I applied 12V it started to work, may have just been stuck, but I don't trust it -

Total time: 20 min, cost $130Can and 4 beers

Mrv8q

A tip of the hat to BearsLexus for his excellent DIY. On my '99 ES300, the hardest part was finding the solenoids, and the second hardest was disconnecting the solenoid wiring. I wound up removing the solenoid, and then disconnecting; too hard to figure out otherwise. Too congested and hard to access otherwise with my not so big mitts! Happily, my OCV filters were very clean; replaced anyway. The Dorman part numbers as quoted were spot on, thanks to RockAuto!

I can see now what destroys these engines, after 15 + years; HEAT!
Many of the little plastic bits have already perished, or crumble to dust when touched. Good thing I administer to a couple British sports cars... Some hoses split upon removal of the solenoids, glad I had extra hosing available. I will have to revisit the engine bay and order a couple of plastic bits that are no more....

Thanks again for an excellent DIY!