Timing belt, crankshaft and cam replace!
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Driver
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From: va
Timing belt, crankshaft and cam replace!
My RX 300 01 almost reach 180k before it needs timing belt, serpentine belt and water pump replace, this is a second time around. 1st time at 90k. It also need tune up but I think I will try to DIY. I called Lexus dealer today for quote:
1k for the timing belt, serpentine belt and water pump replace.
$500 for tune up.
And also recommend to replace the cam and crank shaft seals which is another $500
2k for the total
My question is that do we need to replace the cam and crankshaft seal if it not leaking? Are these seals like the water pump that went you replace to timing belt it's wise to replace it since it locate right under the timing belt? and how many cam and crankshaft seals are there on the RX that need to be replace?
Thanks
1k for the timing belt, serpentine belt and water pump replace.
$500 for tune up.
And also recommend to replace the cam and crank shaft seals which is another $500
2k for the total
My question is that do we need to replace the cam and crankshaft seal if it not leaking? Are these seals like the water pump that went you replace to timing belt it's wise to replace it since it locate right under the timing belt? and how many cam and crankshaft seals are there on the RX that need to be replace?
Thanks
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,583
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From: Austin, TX
Ask what is involved in tune up? Most likely it is 30k multiple milage service (various fluids and filters etc).
Your answer lies in asking yourself this question ,,,, why do you want to replace the water-pump? Specially if you replaced one at 90k?
When it comes to water-pump and seals (cam shaft, cam-shaft) it is all a part of pre-emptive service. If there is evidence of leak only then it shifts to needed service. With higher milage and time the probability of failure goes up. It is a question of how much risk you want to take. If a seal leaks, you can reach for an additive (not my preferred solution).
Personally, I only replaced the T belt at 90,K and at 180k, I plan to replace the water-pump and the seals along with T belt.
That still leaves the rear-main seal?
Salim
Your answer lies in asking yourself this question ,,,, why do you want to replace the water-pump? Specially if you replaced one at 90k?
When it comes to water-pump and seals (cam shaft, cam-shaft) it is all a part of pre-emptive service. If there is evidence of leak only then it shifts to needed service. With higher milage and time the probability of failure goes up. It is a question of how much risk you want to take. If a seal leaks, you can reach for an additive (not my preferred solution).
Personally, I only replaced the T belt at 90,K and at 180k, I plan to replace the water-pump and the seals along with T belt.
That still leaves the rear-main seal?
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; Jun 22, 2012 at 07:19 AM.
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Posts: 37
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From: Florida
" With higher milage and time the probability of failure goes up. "
AHHH!!! The simple logic I didn't want to realize. I am at 180K. looking into T-belt change.
I'm probably going to end up replacing Tbelt with:
-tensioner pulleys
-hydrolic tensioner
-serpentne belts
-water pump/Gasket
-cam shaft & crank shaft seals
is this overkill? or is there anything else I should add while i'm at it?
AHHH!!! The simple logic I didn't want to realize. I am at 180K. looking into T-belt change.
I'm probably going to end up replacing Tbelt with:
-tensioner pulleys
-hydrolic tensioner
-serpentne belts
-water pump/Gasket
-cam shaft & crank shaft seals
is this overkill? or is there anything else I should add while i'm at it?
Last edited by Kevvo1; Feb 5, 2017 at 08:30 PM.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 37
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From: Florida
I watched timing belt videos but they skip cam/crankshaft seals. Do i just take out the bolt in the middle of the gears and it appears behind it? Do these seals oftenly leak? How many miles should they last? 200K?
Driver
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 188
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From: usa
My front cam seal leaked at 115k miles. it is a good idea to do all the seals. The crankshaft seal is easier to do, as it is there when the crank pulley is off. cam seals is more works as you will have to remove the cam pulleys and back tbelt cover, removing two cam pulleys.
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Intermediate
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From: Indiana
But correct procedures are important. On my is300 the FSM says to only press the seal until flush with the outer surface, even tho it can go deeper. Appearantly, there is a weep hole that if blocked by the seal will let pressure build up and blow out the seal. So each engine is different. I bought my FSM (factory service manual) from ebay $50. Its money well spent and its what you need when working on your rx
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I did all the work you describe just this past summer. The cam and main shaft seals were not difficult to replace, a simple $20 seal puller tool made it really easy to remove the old ones. Both my upper camshaft seals were leaking at 185k miles, the reason I did it. I also did the rear camshaft cover/PCV upgrade along with new seals on both the front and rear covers. And new spark plug coil seals on both sides along with new spark plugs. I have a spreadsheet with all the parts, source and cost if that helps.
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Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 37
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From: Florida
I know the OEM belt is made by Mitsoboshi and W/P by aisin but what about the other ones (Rollers/Seals/Tensioner)?
Unique tools:
-Torque wrench capable of 159 lb/ft
-harmonic balance puller
-stud extractor
-seal puller
-strap wrench (I prefer the chain version)
If I'm missing special tools you guys think I may need, please lmk. I don't want to start only to find out I can't finish.
I enjoy reading and learning from this community. I will try to post up useful pics/tips after I complete the job.
Last edited by Kevvo1; Aug 21, 2017 at 06:20 PM.
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,583
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From: Austin, TX
I am not familiar with the seal manufacturer.
Other manufacturers provide product to Lexus/Toyota. Verify the water pump gasket it metal.
You will most likely need a stud twister too, the star head on the studs are pretty useless to undo the stud. [I assume you plan to replace the water pump.
Most difficult part is undoing the main pulley bolt and finally tightening it to spec. You need a tool to hold the main pulley.
Think about doing a complete drain and fill of the coolant ,, so buy a gallon or two of the coolant. Depending on where you live, follow the instructions on the jug and you need not do a 50-50mix. Add distilled water if you can to mix.
I need mirror (you can use phone-camera) to see the alignment on Cam #1. Look at the floating videos ... see our DIY .. visualize and follow through.
When the belt is on, remember to crank 2 full turns of the main by hand to see nothing is binding and the timing marks still line up. [the marks on the cam pulley and the main... the marks on the belt will not line-up any more.]
Salim
ps: I use the nifty can opener from a paint store [bent screwdriver tip] and rip into the rubber and then turn the handle of the tool 90 degrees (along the shaft) and the bent piece goes behind the seal ... gentle tug pulls the seal out.
Other manufacturers provide product to Lexus/Toyota. Verify the water pump gasket it metal.
You will most likely need a stud twister too, the star head on the studs are pretty useless to undo the stud. [I assume you plan to replace the water pump.
Most difficult part is undoing the main pulley bolt and finally tightening it to spec. You need a tool to hold the main pulley.
Think about doing a complete drain and fill of the coolant ,, so buy a gallon or two of the coolant. Depending on where you live, follow the instructions on the jug and you need not do a 50-50mix. Add distilled water if you can to mix.
I need mirror (you can use phone-camera) to see the alignment on Cam #1. Look at the floating videos ... see our DIY .. visualize and follow through.
When the belt is on, remember to crank 2 full turns of the main by hand to see nothing is binding and the timing marks still line up. [the marks on the cam pulley and the main... the marks on the belt will not line-up any more.]
Salim
ps: I use the nifty can opener from a paint store [bent screwdriver tip] and rip into the rubber and then turn the handle of the tool 90 degrees (along the shaft) and the bent piece goes behind the seal ... gentle tug pulls the seal out.
Last edited by salimshah; Jan 14, 2017 at 03:45 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 37
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From: Florida
Toyota gave me a parts list for this job;
-Hydraulic Tensioner - 13540-20021
-Front Camshaft seal - 90311-38034
-Waterpump assembly - 16100-29085
These part #'s match up EXACTLY to the picture above.
-Timing belt - 13568-YZZ10
-Idler sub-assembly - 13505-20010 & 13503-0A010 (They had same name for both rollers)
-Front crankshaft seal - 90311-40022
These part#'s DON'T match up. I think because Toyota re-branded the item with their name (I believe they are the exact part made by the exact company though..)
*They wanted $645 for parts.
I appreciate the tips Shalimshah. I wouldn't have thought to check the timing marks before reassembling lol
Going to start this project soon. Will update in couple weeks on how it goes
-Hydraulic Tensioner - 13540-20021
-Front Camshaft seal - 90311-38034
-Waterpump assembly - 16100-29085
These part #'s match up EXACTLY to the picture above.
-Timing belt - 13568-YZZ10
-Idler sub-assembly - 13505-20010 & 13503-0A010 (They had same name for both rollers)
-Front crankshaft seal - 90311-40022
These part#'s DON'T match up. I think because Toyota re-branded the item with their name (I believe they are the exact part made by the exact company though..)
*They wanted $645 for parts.
I appreciate the tips Shalimshah. I wouldn't have thought to check the timing marks before reassembling lol
Going to start this project soon. Will update in couple weeks on how it goes
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,583
Likes: 1,397
From: Austin, TX
Toyota gave me a parts list for this job;
-Hydraulic Tensioner - 13540-20021
-Front Camshaft seal - 90311-38034
-Waterpump assembly - 16100-29085
These part #'s match up EXACTLY to the picture above.
-Timing belt - 13568-YZZ10
-Idler sub-assembly - 13505-20010 & 13503-0A010 (They had same name for both rollers)
-Front crankshaft seal - 90311-40022
These part#'s DON'T match up. I think because Toyota re-branded the item with their name (I believe they are the exact part made by the exact company though..)
*They wanted $645 for parts.
I appreciate the tips Shalimshah. I wouldn't have thought to check the timing marks before reassembling lol
Going to start this project soon. Will update in couple weeks on how it goes
-Hydraulic Tensioner - 13540-20021
-Front Camshaft seal - 90311-38034
-Waterpump assembly - 16100-29085
These part #'s match up EXACTLY to the picture above.
-Timing belt - 13568-YZZ10
-Idler sub-assembly - 13505-20010 & 13503-0A010 (They had same name for both rollers)
-Front crankshaft seal - 90311-40022
These part#'s DON'T match up. I think because Toyota re-branded the item with their name (I believe they are the exact part made by the exact company though..)
*They wanted $645 for parts.
I appreciate the tips Shalimshah. I wouldn't have thought to check the timing marks before reassembling lol
Going to start this project soon. Will update in couple weeks on how it goes
But there is a market for sub-standard, factory reject parts. So buy from reputable seller. Part numbers are Lexus {different from Toyota} and the seller is using them to show that they are interchangeable. Koyo/Aisin would have their own part number. No magic there.
About the timing marks on the belt, I am just sharing my own experience, when many years ago when I turned the crank 2 turns, the timing marks on the belt were not even close. I panicked and re-installed the belt and once again after two turns the markings on the belt were off. Then I realized that the ratio of teeth of the cams and the main have a relationship but not the cogs on the belt.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; Jan 14, 2017 at 07:57 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 37
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From: Florida
I bought all tools/parts needed to start. I began the project today. Haven't gotten far but wanted to know; when checking the timing marks one last time, I'm supposed to release tensioner lock/pin BEFORE turning crankshaft correct?
**For anyone considering to attempt this, be sure you have EVERYTHING (check 2-3 times, re-read/watch tutorials!!) or you'll be like me, shopping for impact gun mid-way to remove stubborn Crankshaft bolt
(torque is more than initial 159 lb-ft b/c of thread sealant).**
*also I just found out autozone offers free rentals of most tools need for this job
**For anyone considering to attempt this, be sure you have EVERYTHING (check 2-3 times, re-read/watch tutorials!!) or you'll be like me, shopping for impact gun mid-way to remove stubborn Crankshaft bolt
(torque is more than initial 159 lb-ft b/c of thread sealant).***also I just found out autozone offers free rentals of most tools need for this job
Last edited by Kevvo1; Feb 4, 2017 at 09:08 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 483
Likes: 84
From: Indiana
You dont need an impact gun. Put a jack stand to the right of the crank pulley,, put the breaker bar on the bolt so its at 3 o'clock and the end of the breaker bar is sitting on the jack stand. Then turn the key to bump the starter to rotate the crank shaft. Works every time.
yes. Pull the pin out. Then rotate two revolutions and recheck timing marks.
yes. Pull the pin out. Then rotate two revolutions and recheck timing marks.
Last edited by Drcoffee; Feb 5, 2017 at 12:35 AM.