sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

Agree! But if you ask for a "tune-up" today, that's all you'll get!

maxSteel

I'm due for this job. Priced it at my local firestone for timing belt, water pump, idlers, tensioner, cam and crank seals.
The kit they are using is the Dayco WP2571KA ($140 at Rock Auto). Seals are not included in that kit, not sure which parts they would use

• Parts: $384.95
• Labor: $1082.40
• Shop Supplies: $30.00
• Tax: $99.20
• Total: $1596.55

And that's why I end up doing everything myself.

salimshah

I would add that a certain skill level and a few special tools are required, if anyones planning DIY. Some of the difficulties are glossed over in photo/video.

It should not be the first DIY job. Solicit help and set aside 6 hrs.

Salim

salimshah

I would add idler pulley, front main seal.
In my recommendation would be cam seals [specially if they are original]. Thermostat will be a thing to consider as you plan to do the water-pump and might as well drain the whole coolant.
Serpentine belt has its own recommended replacement schedule. [if you want to catch up, this may be a good time]. Tension requirements for new vs old belt are different.

Salim

Margate330

OMG for sure. This is not entry level DIY.

Can I plz add, I don't recommend doing the cam seals unless a person had very strong DIY skills, and btw cam sprockets have to be removed to do this and retorqued properly or big problems down the road if the cam sprocket comes loose.

Can't remember when I did mine(RX330) if Locktite Blue or equivalent was required on the threads or not, I forget.

A seal puller is a must and a seal installer is recommended to press in seal on firewall bank straight- only oem seals would I trust, too much work to do again.
One scratch on the cam when removing and installing the seals will be forever be oil leaking on the timing belt area.
So skipping them might be better if it's bone dry and no oil leaking or change seals with care.

salimshah

Clarification on Cam Seals:

I just did the front cam seals, which can be done with the cams in place. Its been a while but I recall doing the valve cover seal as well. [Expected life of valve cover seal is about 120K miles]. I had to do the firewall cam seal twice ... I did not seat it correctly. Lesson leant .. use the phone camera to verify as the straight line of sight is not possible for bank1.


Salim

LeX2K

Removing the cam seals is difficult for sure and if you've never done it before good chance you will damage the cams. Installing the new seal is easy old old seal against the new one, put the cam on backwards and use the bolt/cam to press the seal in.

Dayco water pumps are but you know what they say doing the job twice is cheaper than doing it right the first time.

maxSteel

I bought a kit on EBay with the parts list shown in https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ml#post9737462.

This kit also includes the drive belts. Parts list:

• Qty 1 - Timing Belt Mitsoboshi TB257M
• Qty 1 - Idler Roller Koyo / NSK 13503-62030
• Qty 1 - Tensioner Roller Koyo / NSK 13505-62060
• Qty 1 - Front Crankshaft Seal KP/Stone/THO 90311-40013
• Qty 2 - Front Camshaft Seals KP/Stone/THO 90311-38034
• Qty 1 - Water Pump Aisin 16100-29085
• Qty 1 - Water Pump Gasket Aisin 16271-20020
• Qty 1 - Hydraulic Tensioner NTN 13540-20021
• Qty 1 - Power steering Belt Mitsuboshi / Bando 4PK880/85
• Qty 1 - Alternator and AC Belt Mitsuboshi / Bando 6PK1040

I also ordered a few specialty tools:

• Schley Products 96800 Camshaft Pulley Holding Tool Universal
• Schley Products 64300 Toy/Lex Harmonic Bal Pulley Hold Tool.
• Lisle 77110 22mm Harmonic Balancer Socket

Will pick up a bigger impact wrench if mine doesn't cut it. I think I already have everything else.
It's going to be fun.

LeX2K

How do people use this tool without sheering the bolts off? That's exactly what happened to a friend was a royal pain to fish the bolts out of the crank pulley.

maxSteel

Did he have this one or a different one?

The tool is designed to fit the notches of the crank pulley. The bolts hold the tool against the face of the pulley.

Here's a video:

LeX2K

The exact one in your list. Bolt was heavily rusted on finally got it off using heat and electric impact.

maxSteel

Odd. If the tool is meshing properly with the pulley and the bolts are fastened tight I don't see how they can sheer.
I hope mine isn't rusted.

LeX2K

Both bolts broke clean off I can see why the amount of coaxing and force it took to get the crank bolt loose was substantial. Breaker bar that guy used in the video is terrible way too much flex.

Not saying that is a bad tool BTW it's well made but the bolts are a weak point.

Margate330

This looks like a nice quality parts and tool list.

I got lucky on mine.
Left all the belts on and impact gun'd off the crankshaft bolt.

Still needed a harmonic balancer puller to pull the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft though.

maxSteel

Oh, thanks for the reminder! I will pick a loaner up from Advance Auto.