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I ended up purchasing an impact gun/cable off Craigslist for $50. Would have tried the B.B. method but all I have is a 3/8th ratchet lol
*edit: I suggest to get a strap wrench before start you begin b/c you'll need it to tighten the bolt back anyways.*
Last edited by Kevvo1; 08-21-17 at 06:16 PM.
Reason: removed irrelevant info
I have to ask you something. You decided to do this yourself to save some money no doubt. Couldnt you buy the right tools to at least get the job done? How much is a 1/2 socket set with a breaker bar? What all of $30. I like your plan though. To save a few dollars you risk your entire engine.
So to your question, go frikin buy a strap wrench or chain wrench big enough to wrap around the crank pulley. Once you get the timing marks lined up, position the strap wrench on the pulley, protected by an old belt, supported by a jack stand. Then torque the bolt to 159#.
)
Both the tutorials on Youtube used an impact gun to remove and apparently install the crankshaft bolt. I attempted with 3/8 ratchet, and bought impact gun 650ft-lbs, With no options left I used my 1/2" torque wrench and bumped the engine. Breaker bar method I have lots of basic equipment but no specialty tools. So far I've spent $520 and I still don't have everything I need. I want to Increase my mechanical experience, learn about the Rx's engine bay, and pickup a few tools along the way. Saving money is a plus but it wasn't the primary intention.
I'm an amateur mechanic (if even that) wanting to get in the field. Clublexus has been great. I've learned and done; coolant/ power-steering/ brake/ ATF flushes, spark plugs/ brake pads/ airmix servo changes and a ton more that's non-mechanical. You two, Drcoffee and Salimshah, contribute so much to the forums. I often see your posts and want to assist however I can to rx owners. Sorry if I ask a lot. My questions are aimed for clarity on topics that have been overlooked, for my benefit and future DIYers.
I think I am not getting across to kevvo1 and DrCoffee.
One can bump start with the breaker bar and the starter .. the engine providing the torque while the breaker bar is the dead arm. So far so good.
BUT
When you want to torque down the main bolt, you need something to hold the pulley. There is a tool for that and you would need it. If you had the tool form the beginning you would not need the bump start to loosen the main bolt.
Planning requires not only opening the parts, but putting them back together too. Classic one is when folks undo the drain plug of the differential without making sure that they can open the filler plug.
i suggested a strap wrench to hold the pulley while torqueing the bolt back down. Maybe you missed that in post #18.
You can go and buy the $65 holding tool as I did but for most people, its not necessary.
Kevvo1, you can make your own holding tool from a piece of steel or even a 2x4. Meaesure the spread of the two threaded holes on the pulley while its off the car and fab a 2x4 with a hole big enough to let the socket pass thru. The threaded holes are 8mm if I recall. Any ace hardware will have these. Be creative on your holding tool. But just dont guess on the torque. I use a few drops of red locktite (not fully coated) for insurance but the manual dosent mention it.
i suggested a strap wrench to hold the pulley while torqueing the bolt back down. Maybe you missed that in post #18.
You can go and buy the $65 holding tool as I did but for most people, its not necessary.
Kevvo1, you can make your own holding tool from a piece of steel or even a 2x4. Meaesure the spread of the two threaded holes on the pulley while its off the car and fab a 2x4 with a hole big enough to let the socket pass thru. The threaded holes are 8mm if I recall. Any ace hardware will have these. Be creative on your holding tool. But just dont guess on the torque. I use a few drops of red locktite (not fully coated) for insurance but the manual dosent mention it.
Huge mistake using red loctite unless you never have to remove harmonic balancer again.
Huge mistake using red loctite unless you never have to remove harmonic balancer again.
what is your experience level with doing a timing belt?? I have done it many times and never had a problem breaking the bolt free with 2-3 drops of red loctite on the bolt. Put it high on the threads closer to the bolthead to keep the bolt from moving. Dont soak the threads in it.
what is your experience level with doing a timing belt?? I have done it many times and never had a problem breaking the bolt free with 2-3 drops of red loctite on the bolt. Put it high on the threads closer to the bolthead to keep the bolt from moving. Dont soak the threads in it.
6 total and 4 on 1MZFE. Never used loctite. I have a torque wrench. Have used red loctite before and did have to use heat to remove as warned by loctite. Maybe you can get away with a couple drops but why do it when it is absolutely NOT required or recommended by Toyota?
Not too many people have gone back to undo the main pulley bolt, after they have put the locktite .
I looked at the bolt that came out and it never had a trace of locktite on it and FSM does not call for it. Proper Torque is all I do. OK it s time to have my Torque wrench calibrated.
Timing belt, waterpump, seals, and serpentines have been replaced. Still running 5 months/ 5k mi later
Most issues I encountered have been addressed in previous posts but i'll try to add helpful tips. The written tutorial is what I followed first and foremost; reviewed "RealfixesRealfast" video by Toyota tech and another vid by, "Fixingcars andstuff" for perspective.
-Removing/installing Crankbolt: Place an old serpentine belt(or similar) around harmonic balancer, then strap chain-wrench over it and loosen crankbolt. I re-installed with 3 drops red loctite on threads near the bolthead.
-Cam+Crank seals: I followed DrCoffee advice; ever-so-carefully drilled a small hole in each seal, put in drywall screw, pulled out using flathead and needle nosed pliers.
I sprayed new seals entirely with white lithium grease (Not sure if ok but engine oil may be better and cheaper). Placed seal into hole-> pvc tube over it-> washer-> cam/crank bolt-> tightened until seal was ALMOST flush.
*While I had everything open, I wrapped TESA high temp wireharness tape around everything. It really makes the engine look newer and it’ll protect it from heat too!
*I will update the tools list with what I believe are noteworthy in post #10.
*Coolant splatters a lot when removing WP (even after initial drain). Cardboard floor if needed.
*Keep pets away!! I rushed my dog to the ER b/c he drank coolant I drained :'( Luckily it was 50/50 and a small dose.
*When lining up camshaft, I used a mirror and a piece of tape to match up the markings.
*Old tensioner can be pushed in if placed between car frame and a jack, it's easier than using a C-clamp.
*I used brake cleaner and a plastic brush to clean harmonic balancer and the pulleys.
*Remember that Autozone rents out most tools before you purchase anything.
I suppose that's it. I'll edit and update anything if necessary.
Glad it all worked out for you Kevvo1. I would not recommend compressing the tensioner down by providing lift force and then sticking your hand in there to get the pin inserted.
Any serious DIYer needs to invest in a bench vice with 5-1/2 jaw opening. On another car with a longer tensioner, I installed the tensioner doing opposite of the removal process. Trick is to tighten the bolts evenly.
thanks for the fill in the blanks posts above. I have to do this in a week and your pics help. I have a couple of questions.
1) did you install the water pump gasket dry or with silicone?
2) did you drain the block of coolant using the spigots on the block or just open the radiator hoses?
3) on the crank seal, did you drive it all the way in or just flush? On my IS300, if you drive the seal all tje way in, it blocks the oil drain hole and then leaks. I havent read the manual yet.
4) how did you drill the rear cam seal? Was there enough room?
I am not looking forward to this job on a transverse engine.
Compressing the tension your way is just fine. The tensioner is hydraulic, not spring loaded so its slow to move in or out. And there is no way to compress it so much that you will lift the truck unless it bottoms out. A bench vice is idea but not everyone has one.
02-05-17, 02:43 AM
I have lots of basic equipment but no specialty tools. So far I've spent $520 and I still don't have everything I need. I want to Increase my mechanical experience, learn about the Rx's engine bay, and pickup a few tools along the way. Saving money is a plus but it wasn't the primary intention.
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