01rxwhite

I went back in my records to see how long I've been playing with fire on the 10k oci's. By the way, the RX Owner's Manual Supplement calls for 5k oci's with Dino oil. The 3,000 mile oil change is a matter of personal choice. Anyway, I first went to a 10k oci on 1/31/04 at 45,212 miles, with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. That said, I've been doing it now for 8 years and over 160k. So far, so good at 206k. I know the 10k oci is hard to imagine to some of you, as you've expressed. I'm not telling you what you do it wrong or unnecessary. My reasoning was not made lightly. I've been changing my own oil for 40+years now and was raised around the 'oil' business. I remember the first synthetic oil that came out in the late 70's. I will just say I researched and read alot about the new synthetic oils before deciding to use it. Now the other consideration was the cost effectiveness. I average 20k miles per year, so at 5k oci, I was changing oil every 2-3 months. The synthetic oil costs ($4.60/qt) roughly twice what dino oil does. At least it was at one time! It may be higher now! I now change my oil about every 6 months / 10k miles. I don't have the time or space to go into the reasons for oil failure, but let's just say two major ones are heat and contaminants from the combustion process. I believe the oil industry has engineered much better oils/additives in the last 10-15 years to enable the 10 to 15k oci to be possible. Even in a quart of dino oil, it is mostly additives now. It was hard for me to eat oysters and squid the first time, but I lived. Thanks to the Jack! I'm just here to tell you it's OK to try a 10k oci. The real question or weak link with the 10k oci is what this thread was all about. Getting the very best oil filter to go with the 10k osi. What is the best filter out there for a 10k oci??

hypervish

For a 10k oci I'd use the K&N oil filter, as it's larger than the stock one.

I understand the 10k oci, but not for this specific car. The 1mz-fe engine, can not handle 10k oci's. This motor is extremely hard on motor oils, and it has small oil passages. Not to mention, this engine run's hotter than other engines. I suggest you run a UOA, universal oil analysis.

mckellyb

You're not alone.

I've been doing 10K mile oil changes on automobiles since the mid-90's. Two had 200K on them before I sold 'em. This is all on Mobil 1.

I go 10K miles on even the dead-dino C4 oil (diesel, like Rotella-T) Mercedes specs in the '95 W124 I still have. 175K miles on that car...uses about a quart every 10K miles.

The oil life indicator on the new-to-me '05 STS prompts to change the 8 quarts of Mobil 1 around 12K miles. I'm good with this. It doesn't burn any measurable amount over this change interval. I'm going to test it, next time around, so I'll see just how accurate it is.

My wife's RX, which low in miles, sees 10K changes, has since it had 30K miles on it. Doesn't use any, though I wish there were a cost-effective way to enlarge the sump capacity to 7-8 quarts.

Over the years, I've found sump capacity appears to be a contributing factor to long engine life.

Iluvlexus

I have been a lifelong oil changer as well. I find value in getting under my cars to do my own inspection and, as the father of four daughters, God knows that I am unlikely to hear about any issues unless the car won't run. I still use Dino oil in my ford truck with an OCI of ~3000K interval and it runs great with little consumption at 170K miles. All my other vehicles use synthetic oil with OCI intervals of 5K. I firmly believe that the type of driving influences the necessary OCI. If a vehicle is used for high speed 30 mile commutes, 10 K OCI would be perfectly fine. Also, I believe that a quality filter is also important. As stated, I use Baldwin filters. Highly recommended.

Lexmex

K&N HP-2009, oversized and been using it for several years with no problems.

code58

I am in total agreement with all you said! Ever go to the site "million mile van"? I was a '97 or "98 Ford E-250 or 350 van used in a contract cargo business. All open road driving and it made it to 1,150,000 miles (I believe that's pretty accurate) before it gave up and his longest interval between changes was 50,000 mi.!!! I wouldn't dream of doing that, but it's a little hard to argue with 1,150,000 mi. and never having the heads or pan off! The way the miles are put on a vehicle have everything to do with OCI's. I believe he made it to at least a million before the trans. went and he NEVER had the pan off!!, only flushes every 50K mi. (not my recommendation either)

artbuc

Was that Owner's Manual Supplement written before Toyota announced the extended warranty for gel/sludge?

01rxwhite

I agree with Iluvlexus about the type miles put on the vehicle. I have that 30mile commute (one way) and about 65% of it is Interstate. I've averaged 21-23 mpg much of the time. That was a consideration in my doing the 10k oci. I also try not to exceed 6 months between the oil changes whatever the mileage.
As far as the previous question about the Owner's Manual Maintenance Supplement being written before Toyota announced the extended warranty for gel/sludge... I would have to say, YES, it was written before any announcement. I bought the 01 RX in June of 2001 and don't recall even knowing about sludge issues with them. When I found out about it later is when I started researching the synthetics.
Thanks guys for the filter recommendations. I'm going to look at the Baldwin and K&N filters. I have the K&N air filters on all my vehicles and really like them. Peace out.

AShepherd

one of the gem amongst my favorites is the Wix oil filter.
part of the AMSOIL line, wix filters consistently perform very well in independent oil analysis tests
check out bobistheoilguy for more info on wix

right now we have K&N and Wix on sale for 12% off our already low prices as part of our super bowl weekend sale

Iluvlexus

Baldwin makes 2 filters for our vehicle. The B1405 is the OEM replacement and the B243 is a long version with higher capacity. American made, industrial quality and worth the effort to find and the extra few bucks for the piece of mind.

01rxwhite

This is some interesting reading on the subject of oil filters and manufacturers, that I found on another forum (Acurazine).
Quote:
Always the talk about oil: oil types, brands, weights, viscosities, etc. But often the most important part of the lubrication is overlooked. The heart of this would be the oil filter.
Engine oil filters have one purpose in life: to filter out the particles that enter the oil so that they don't act as abrasives when the oil recirculates. The filter is a cellulose (paper) or synthetic media that is usually contained in a steel can. Many filters have an anti-drainback valve to prevent dirty oil from backwashing back into the oil pan. They also have a pressure relief or bypass valve that will allow oil to bypass the filter element in the event that it becomes too plugged to pass enough oil. This prevents engine oil starvation and the possibility of destroying the element, possibly causing pieces of it and the junk it filtered to enter the engine.
More useless information:
The media the comprises a filter is made out of one of the following:
Synthetics – the best

Fiberglass – decent but not the best, mainly because the media is held together with glues and therefore decreases flows

Cellulose – cheapest, swells and distorts over time and flow.

Filter Parts Breakdown:
1. The Base, which contains the engine filter seal, mounting threads (outlet hole), and the interior oil filter one-way (anti-drain back) valve.
2. The Can, which encloses the rest of the filter assembly and is roll mounted to the base.
3. The Filter, which contains the medium that removes foreign particles from the oil and is mounted on a sturdy frame.
4. The By-Pass Valve, which is rated for a certain amount of pressure so that it lets oil by-pass the filter when pressure exceeds OEM limits.
5. The Spring, which generally functions to ensure that the filter assembly fits snugly into the base and gasket .

The question comes down to which filter to buy:

Who makes the best? Who makes who? Which filter should I use?

A breakdown on the maker of filters is listed below:

Honeywell - makes Fram (In Canada the Quaker State filters are Fram filters / In the USA, QS is Purolator), Pennzoil, Quaker State

Honeywell is not even an automotive based company. Their primary sales consist of air conditioning filters, insulation, etc. Cars are not their business. They always rate the poorest in filter reviews. Even their best filter (Extra-tough guard) is only decent. They have very cheap internal parts, but people buy them. I will give them credit, they have a great marketing strategy. Bright cute colors and a sure-gripâ„¢ top will sell anything.

Arvin Meritor - makes Purolator Premium Plus, PureONE, Ford OEM, V-1 & SureFlow (Superflow?)

Better then Honeywell, Arvin Meritor dabbles quite a bit in automotive parts. Filters are not their only gig; they also produce steering/suspension parts, etc. They produce a low – medium line filter. Nothing fancy….

Dana - makes Wix and Napa Gold/Silver, AC Delco DuraGuards for Canada

Even a better manufacturer of filters…some (Wix, Napa Gold line, some Delcos, etc.) come with synthetic valves & media. They are considered a medium line filter. Dana makes some great products, nothing cheap here.

Baldwin (Parent of Hastings) - Baldwin, Hastings, Amsoil, Casite, etc.

Baldwin has pretty big range of quality. Their bottom of the line is the Hastings filter which is a decent filter and extends up to their top of the line Amsoil filter. You get what you pay for here.

Champion Labs - Mobil 1, K&N, Supertech, AC Delco DuraGuards (two different types) for USA, Bosch Premium, STP, Ultraguard Gold, Deutch & Luberfiner

Here we have the biggest range and the largest manufacturer of filters. Champion Labs is responsible for making many OEM filters. Ford has used Champion Labs and so has Chrysler and GM. Champion Labs make some of the best filters like the Mobil 1 & K&N. The cheapest, the Supertech, actually betters out the FRAM in density and length of media believe it or not. But then, Champion is also responsible for some junk like the STP and Bosch. So if you are going cheap, grab the Supertech over the FRAM or basic Purolator.

Cummins - owns Fleetguard filters (primary supplier of trucks)

Mann - a top quality German filter maker. Comes on BMWs, Porsche, Audi, some Volvos.


Summary: There are some filters I may have overlooked, but this largely covers 95% of all the oil filters made. In a nutshell you have:

Best filters: AC Delco, Baldwin, Amsoil, Mobil 1, K&N, .

Medium: AC Delco, Napa, Wix, PureOne(?)

Crap filters: Fram, Bosch, Penzzoil & Quaker (made by Fram)


What good is good oil when you have junk filtration? I don’t want to bore you with flow rates, media densities, etc. But what are a few of bucks difference? You are better off running good oil and a good filter 7500 miles then running junk for 3000. A base line FRAM stops filtration at around 2500-3000 hard miles anyway.

Ref: http://www.mustangforums.com/forum/g...at-to-buy.html

varithms

I use the long also, wix 51516, works and fits great.

OrdieJ

I dont know where all the hate for fram is coming from. I used to use them all the time before becoming a loyalist to Mobil 1.

FilPilot

great info shared here, I can not get enough! Thanks

carguy07

Comes from their internal construction.