amblyn

Ok so i started off wanting to follow the tranny pan drop clean drain fill DiY so went to autozone probably my first mistake they did not have armsoil or mobil they had there brand castrol or this big red jug having a brain fart forgot brand just remember it saying maxlife highmileage on it but it was atf t-iv so its compatable. anyways i get there filter and gasket kit for the pan they referenced the part numbers in the DiY so i get home jack up the car and start. drain the pan and the other bolt behing that. so its 930 pm and im like do i really want to drop the pan hmm so i said the heck with it its late gf eants me inside i can just do it later. so i put both bolts back on and then start pouring.... a little over 4 quarts id say looks like as much as came out didnt measure exact but when i took a reading before started engine hot looked to be over filled. the atf that came out didnt resemble a red color too much wich isnt good nor did it have a smell as the new atf. odd i thought i still smell the new atf so i fill checked for leaks none not a drip start the car let it run a minute then put car in r. d. 2. .1 and back then hopped out checked level was little low (only put 4 quarts to start) so i added the little more and ran through gears ahain and checked level was good cold so i peak under car and noticed some atf on the ground im like sh#% so i look closer with my light and see it looked to be leaking from where gasket is on the corner near the drain plug just small drips so i thought maybe i missed pouring new atf in and thats it coming down.... so i say screw it drive around town for couple mins come back few bore drips check tightness of drain plug good so i thought well maybe if i tighten the pan bolts will stop leak.. having no idea how to measure torque or what torque there supposed to be i slapped on a socket and tried to tighten slowly but they just turned as if they were almost loose like so i have all kinds of things going through my head. should these be supertight. why didnt they feel like they been thrre for a while felt like i just put them in new and tried to back one out you know. so i tightened each one in area a little like 1/4 to 1/2 a turn each i sprayed the area with carb cleaner so id beable to see new leaks droge round block didnt see a keak said woohoo i fixed it...... wake up in am looked under and saw what could possibly be measured as 3 or 4 drops so 6 am now to early to deal i drive 11 miles to work park checked in like 10 min had couple drips end of day np more drips drive home park hour later a drip...


Sorry for all this story of mine but whats with the leak... did i use wrong tranny fluid is system rejecting fresh atf because it probably hasnt seen it in soo long why after a fouid change would it leak and be perfect before?? did i move something out of whack when i loosened the tranny drain plug was in there kinda good.. im tempted to drop pan and put gasket i have but scarred the mess with the tranny it worked fine and if i mess somthing up because i wanna freshen things up id be pi&%#d you know any ideas anyone with simular problems your stories are welcome

on the good note the tranny seems to shift quicker and smoother into revers and drive haha and its probably all in my head but i seem to get better response to the gas pedal. (i also attempted to clean iacv valve but could not get the two screws out for the life of me i stripped them tried vice grips as someone suggested noooo luck so i just sprayed throttle body cleaner into the little hole in there and i opened flaps and sprayed some in there wasnt sure if i was supposed to but did was very hard to get started after but it seemed to raise my idle slightly )

bcg02

Uh, maybe work on your grammar and punctuation to make a more readable post.

Anyway, from what I can decipher: you tried to do a drain and fill with Maxlife fluid. You started removing the pan bolts, but decided against it after removing two. You reinstalled the two pan bolts with a socket. Now you have leaks.

1. Use Toyota T-IV fluid. Its only 5 bucks a quart.

2. ALWAYS USE A 1/4 TORQUE WRENCH ON PAN BOLTS!!! You most likely broke the heads off or stripped it, which is why they arent tightening. Good luck removing them- will probably be $200 bucks unless you are really, really good with a screw extractor kit. Im doubting you are.

In summation, invest in a good torque wrench. It will save you lots of money in the future.

amblyn

Hey thanks for the reply. forgot i was in english class in school why waste your time with a post if you are just going to be rude but besides all that..

I didnt try to unscrew any bolts from pan after i noticed a leak i thought tightening them would stop it.

So i went to tighten such bolts and they were not tight to begine with so i thought that was odd.

So they are still not tight i only turned a little wich did slow the leak.

Soo. my question is why would it leak after only draining and filling. i did not touch tranny pan bolts until after i saw leak after i filled it.

I hope now you can understand my question and hopefully reply with a respectfull answer.

I am not typing this on a computer im on a cell phone now and first post was on a ps3 soo i am truly sorry that ypu couldnt understand it. thanks...

99rx

iTrader: (6)

Looks like you will have to go ahead and drop the pan and replace the pan gasket... Don't be scared of doing this, it's really not that hard. Please go ahead and get yourself a 1/4 torque wrench like suggested. You will be happy in the end. And while you are at it go ahead and grab a Haynes manual at your local parts store. It will have all of the torque specs and info on drain and refills. So since you will have to drop the pan to change the gasket, go ahead and change the filter as well. There are 2 different filters, one for AWD and one for the FWD model. If you have any questions come back and let us know. And possibly provide pics of what you are seeing under the car.


Jason

amblyn

That is the nice response i was looking for thank you.

I purchased a gasket and filter from autozone came together is that good enough or should i return it and get a factory one
Also since ill be draining again i live in Ct any idea where to get good atf or just go to toyota dealer??

Im just trying to make sence of why it leaked after and not before but could be one of thosre thing ill never get.

Ill be following the DIY on here and it goes into disconnecting lines is that truly nrccassary or can i just drain...drop pan...clean install filter and gastket reinstall pan and then fill?? not worried about getting every drip of old stuff out. i do plan on doing about teo more drain and filles should beable to replace a decent amount that way right.

i am no proffessional i just have alot of common sence and am good at figuring things out and following instructions. so thank you for all help just want to make lexybaby last

99rx

iTrader: (6)

Sorry, for some reason I am just seeing this.
GO ahead and purchase Toyota T-IV fluid (4 quarts for 2wd, a little more with the AWD if I remember correctly). This will be your safest bet. You do not have to disconnect the lines or anything like that. If you plan on doing it a couple more times, all you will have to do is drop it replace old filter with new one from autozone (or wherever you got it) and button her back up. It's pretty straight forward. Post back up if you have problems. I'm on here literally all the time.

thomas1

If the gasket from Autozone is rubber that is your problem...I found them not reliable for leaks...Get the cork/rubber gasket from another source or dealer...I fought one of those autozone gaskets and finally replaced with original equipment and the leak dissappeared. As for the fluid it has to say replace for Toyota Type IV....be very careful....I believe Castrol makes one. Otherwise buy Toyota Type IV fluid.

amblyn

yes it was rubber i got nervous and didnt attempt it. the leak stopped by itself on my last drain and fill ill purchase the better gasket just did one on my gfs toyota camry 99 and used rubber gasket see how it holds up and as for fluid i used think was valvoline max life for high mileage on back it did list toyota t-iv amongst others when i do final change i may use mobile stuff expensive 10 bux a quart is there a diff in that and the toyota or should i just stick with toyota

thomas1

Yea the rubber gasket seems to firm, doesnt mold well for stopping the leaks...had same problem on my ford windstar. neighbor experienced same problem on his chrysler...no more tranny gaskets from Autozone, though i do like their other parts....

amblyn

yea they are pretty good im lucky to live in a area with multiple parts stores to choose from

pepboys,autozone,carquest,advance auto,dennis auto, and every dealership. all within a ten mile radius

dtewing

I wanted to give everyone and update on this old thread in case they look through it like I did.

The OE Part number for the crush washer (gasket) for the transmission plug (and transfer case) is:

90430-18008

This is a Toyota # but it is the same for RX300 series. Cost at dealership ~$1.25.

carguy07

Transmission and front differential take that one. Transfer case and rear differential are all: 12157-10010