RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003) Discussion topics related to the 1999 -2003 RX300 models

What oil are you using right now?

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Old 11-16-12, 11:49 AM
  #46  
hypervish
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Originally Posted by lexus114
I think it would be alright. 5W-20 doesnt loose much in visc. compared to 5W-30. Try it, (just make sure it doesnt consume it too much) And I recommend the PP 5W-20. On the flip side of the coin, I use Conventional 5W-30 in mine (GTX currently) and it runs fantastic! So I figure with the Conventional oil`stoday being better than they ever were (due to strict vehicle requirements) why bother with the Synthetic? This is why i`m not using it in mine right now. Choice is your`s, just depends on what you looking to accomplish I guess. Also I have a tow hitch on mine, and I just wouldnt feel comfortable towing anything on 5W-20.
The extra mpg does sound tempting, I may give it a shot. I'll let you know. My next road trip is during Christmas, so I'll need to change the oil before then I may give PP 5w-20 a try.
Old 11-17-12, 05:37 PM
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LA4Mead
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Default Extended oil change intervals with the right oil

Originally Posted by mckellyb
5W30 Mobil1, which ours has seen since new.

I do 10K mile changes. Yes, ten thousand miles.

LA4Mead...Mercedes used to recommend C4 diesel motor oil for all their gasoline-engined vehicles. My old Baby Beater Benz, a '95 E320, has high-interval changes, on synthetic Rotella, and it uses maybe a quart over 10K miles. I'm the third owner, and I know the second owners didn't understand the sump holds 7 quarts, so it was always run at least 2 quarts/litres low...for the 20K miles before I bought it.

The oil life indicator on the '05 STS V8 I have gives me about 12K miles between changes. Though, 8 quart sump.

That's a lot, sure, but nothing compared to the Cummins ISB in the motocoach...that sucker holds 4 gallons.
With the Rotella T synthetic still appearing not too shabby by 6,000++ miles (just barely starting to oxidize) I could likely extend my interval, and probably should.

Regardless of brand, the oil seems to start looking dark and dirty after I use EFI cleaner, either in the fuel (often Techron from Costco, or concentrated STP/generic from Walmart or Pep Boys) or directly when I clean through the throttle body with CRC, usually about 10,000 miles or so. That dark color is what usually makes me think it's time to change the oil.

Am I doing something wrong, or overdoing it?

Last edited by LA4Mead; 11-17-12 at 05:41 PM.
Old 05-05-13, 06:46 PM
  #48  
imherenow
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regular quaker state 5W30 with OEM oil filter.QS is like 5 bucks cheaper than other regular oils. so have been using that for sometime now
Old 05-05-13, 10:00 PM
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salimshah
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Originally Posted by LA4Mead
With the Rotella T synthetic still appearing not too shabby by 6,000++ miles (just barely starting to oxidize) I could likely extend my interval, and probably should.

Regardless of brand, the oil seems to start looking dark and dirty after I use EFI cleaner, either in the fuel (often Techron from Costco, or concentrated STP/generic from Walmart or Pep Boys) or directly when I clean through the throttle body with CRC, usually about 10,000 miles or so. That dark color is what usually makes me think it's time to change the oil.

Am I doing something wrong, or overdoing it?
Fuel injector cleaners have kerosine in it which will get into oil. Once it gets into oil, it will work to dislodge varnish and thereby make your oil darker. I suggest that you do an oil change after Fuel injector cleaner treatment.

Every one has their own plan, but when I was using dino oil, I would change oil every 3k miles and after switching to European synthetic at 5k miles intervals.

Color is just one indicator. I would suggest set the trip meter.

Salim
Old 10-06-13, 08:23 PM
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imherenow
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5W30 full syn Pennzoil Ultra. was on sale so went with that.
Old 10-11-13, 06:14 PM
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Larry62
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I've been using Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 for the past 3 changes at 4000 mi intervals and am quite happy with the cleaning aspect of this brand.Although my engine didn't have a sludge problem it did have varnish build up,and I plan to pull the front valve cover in the future to see how much difference this type oil makes.
Old 10-12-13, 05:59 AM
  #52  
jbl-1985
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Originally Posted by imherenow
5W30 full syn Pennzoil Ultra. was on sale so went with that.
So you are buying whatever's on sale which may or may not be synthetic. My understanding is that you should stay on Synthetic once you start?
Old 10-12-13, 08:21 AM
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imherenow
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Originally Posted by jbl-1985
So you are buying whatever's on sale which may or may not be synthetic. My understanding is that you should stay on Synthetic once you start?
ya i have recently switched all 3 cars to synthetic and i will stick with that from now on. From what i wrote it sounds like i buy whatever its on sale whether syn or not....Did not clarify it. But now its all synthetic all the time baby!!!

Also have noticed that with penz ulta the engine is "cleaner" and much smoother. And i like it
Old 10-12-13, 05:12 PM
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hypervish
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Originally Posted by jbl-1985
So you are buying whatever's on sale which may or may not be synthetic. My understanding is that you should stay on Synthetic once you start?
It's a myth.

You can use dino oil (conventional), syn, dino, syn, dino, dino ,syn, and syn. Nothing will happen. It's just an old urban legend.
Old 10-12-13, 05:48 PM
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Arthurbtx
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Smile Synthetic oil

Synthetic is no longer synthetic. Mobil uses a Dino oil blend, as do most others. I think Amsoil and Redline are pure synthetic, and maybe some lesser known branda.
Old 10-13-13, 12:06 PM
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Mechanic was using Castrol GTX 10W-30 in mine until I started doing my own oil changes a few months back. I just did a change last night and used Valvoline High Mileage synthetic blend. I have 200,923 miles on my 2001 RX300
Old 10-14-13, 12:48 AM
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code58
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Originally Posted by Arthurbtx
Synthetic is no longer synthetic. Mobil uses a Dino oil blend, as do most others. I think Amsoil and Redline are pure synthetic, and maybe some lesser known branda.
True, it hasn't been for a while but I don't think current synthetics would so much be called a blend as a refining of conventional crude so that the end product comes out with all the characteristics of synthetics. I'm not a strong fan of Mobil but that's all Wal Mart carried in 0-20 at the time of the 1st change on my wifes '11 Camry. I run about 9K mi. change intervals (recommended 10K) and have been very happy with 0 consumption and very clean at 9K. They do carry Penn Platinum and Ultra now in 0-20 so I at least have that option.
Old 10-14-13, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by hypervish
It's a myth.

You can use dino oil (conventional), syn, dino, syn, dino, dino ,syn, and syn. Nothing will happen. It's just an old urban legend.
I'd love to switch, but every time I think about doing it and researching a little, I see where enough people have had leaks develop and so I just can't pull the trigger. Lettin' sleeping dogs lie...
Old 10-14-13, 08:44 AM
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Even on lexus.com knowledge center FAQ mentiones to "stick with synthetic"
Attached Thumbnails What oil are you using right now?-oil-lexus.jpg  
Old 03-01-14, 11:00 AM
  #60  
2KHarrier
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Default Pennzoil Platinum on sale at Advance Auto

I went into Advance Auto looking for Auto RX, and I found PP with a Fram Ultra Guard filter for 32.99. Not sure if that was a local special in Milwaukee, or a national thing, but it's just about half off this way...

http://slickdeals.net/forums/attachm...0&d=1393644111

Last edited by 2KHarrier; 03-01-14 at 11:03 AM.


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