r3dl4b3l

iTrader: (1)

I was in the process of replacing my front pads and the bottom bolt will not come out, it just spins in place. It won't tighten either. Any suggestions on removing or tighten it back up so I can take it to the shop? Think it would be ok to drive it to the shop?

salimshah

Caliper should not be unbolted for pad removal/replacement.

All you need to do is undo one of the pad carrier [this has the piston assembly] bolt. If memory serves me right, you need a 17mm thin open end wrench (spanner) to hold the slider pin and undo the bolt. Once the bolt is out, you simply spin up/down the carrier and the slider bolt will expand out due to rubber bellows.

When you tighten the bolt, you would need the wrench to hold the slider pin and the torque is some where around 20lb-ft.

[edit .. the slider bolt head is just on the other side of the pad-carrier]
Salim

r3dl4b3l

iTrader: (1)

Salimshah,

Thanks for the quick reply,

My mistake it is the sliding pin that wont come off and just spinning in place. Any suggestions on tighten or removal?



I notice that the bolt keeps spinning in place and the circle part rotates as well.

JAB

If I correctly understand what you are describing, the sliding pin does not need to come out. And, the flat spots on the head of the sliding pin are held in place by the recess on the pad carrier; no need for a 'thin' open end wrench.

salimshah

There are 2 sliding pins. Move to the other. For the front brakes, the lower sliding pin has the thin nut that has to be held by the wrench. Just slide the circled rubber bellows to expose the nut.

I am sure the front brakes have the nut. Not sure if the back ones have it or not [Jab may be talking about the back].

Salim

JAB

No, I was talking about the front. I just did the fronts last weekend, so the particulars are fresh in my mind. I have never had to put a wrench on the head of the sliding pin to either remove the bolt that holds the pad carrier to the sliding pin, or to tighten it upon reassembly - provided that I carefully align the head of the sliding pin to fit in the recess of the pad carrier.

salimshah

Respectfully disagree. I looked at the '99-RX Repair manual page BR-24 before responding. The posted photo shows the upper pin was removed. The manual indicates the lower should be removed ... As you flip the piston up, it should help relieve tension on the brake hose .

I do agree with you that I did not need to reach for the wrench working on my RX. Over the weekend I was working on my SC and there the pin kept spinning. My favorite Craftsman wrench was too thick to get in there and I had use lighter grade wrench.

Salim

r3dl4b3l

iTrader: (1)

I think I need to clarify what I am trying to do. I got the top bolt off the sliding pin, but I can't get the bottom bolt off. I just spins in place with the sliding pin rotating. The part circled won't sit flush with the pad carrier on its flat side. I just rotates when I try to remove the bolt (14mm). I tired with vice grips to hold the flat part down and work the socket but won't budge. Any suggestions? I haven't tried pulling the rubber boot back as it was getting too dark to by the way that pic isn't me mine I was just using it as reference.

81corolla

Why won't the pin sit flush with the caliper? Is there rust/grit build-up in the groove where the flat part rests?

Sounds like the pin has worked itself out away from the groove - I'm assuming you've tried to push the pin back in so the flat edge is in the groove.

Or wedge a screwdriver or something against the flat edge to keep it from spinning.

Otherwise, just drive it gingerly to the shop.

Good luck.

salimshah

To replace the pads, you only need to remove ONE pin. With one side un-attached, you simply swing the piston assembly, piviting on the other slider pin. You dont need lot of strength, but due to dust the rubber boot (bellows) need to be pulled in a bit ... but it flips out reasonably easily. The bellows and the slider pin allow the piston assembly to expand to compensate for the pad wear.

Dont rip the boot, but dont be shy in pulling it back. When you install new pads, it will be pulled back.

Salim

r3dl4b3l

iTrader: (1)

im gonna give it another shot this afternoon. Gonna pull teh boot back and see if i can kept the pin from spinning and get teh bolt out.

salimshah

Why? You already have one off. The piston assembly should swing out.

Salim

r3dl4b3l

iTrader: (1)

It was never off. I finally got the lower bolt off, looks like the person who did the brakes prior stripped the bolt into the sliding pin while reinstalling. Traveled 45mins one way to get the sliding pin. All the Toyota Dealers didn't have it in stock and would have waited till Saturday to get it in.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, this place is a gold mine for info! Now the time do the rear ones tomorrow.

salimshah

You know what ... I have made mistakes too, but knowingly never call a job done and leave stripped bolts. This is the very reason I prefer DIY.

I also recommend using the anti-chatter grease ... use sparingly [one pack should do all four].

Salim

Nomercy200

How did you get the bolt off? I am having the same problem. Did you use another screwdriver to keep the sliding pin from spinning? I am having the same problem for my front driver side.