Air/Fuel Sensor, I'm screwed!
 

I tried the change my Air/Fuel Sensor (code 1135) and I'm screwed. This is the sensor behind the engine. Purchased a new sensor and special socket. Sprayed PB blaster on it, let it soak in. I got in there with the special socket and my breaker bar.

The old sensor is in there so tight that the edges rounded off on it. Now what am I going to do??? :cry:

I don't think I can get a pair of vise grips up there.

Is there room to get anything L (perpendicular) to the sensor? Pipe wrenches have a large head but there are spanners which act with a squeeze action, instead of grabbing the edges.

There are deep sockets with steel wires which slide up to go over the plug/sensor, but enough are there on the sides to help grab a deformed nut.

Rounding off is bad, but the worst would be breaking it off.

Salim

If nothing works, replace the rear exhaust manifold. I recalled one member called the "Mushroom" effect, A/F sensor seized spreading to manifold.

If the local indy shop can't get the sensor out, that may be the next step.

I'm over it, somebody with a lift is going to deal with it. I've spent too much time on my back under a car.

lastplace- (let's hope you don't come in last place on this!) I have worked in automotive all my life and there is 1 thing I have found never to fail on seized or rusted threads. HEAT! You do need to have an acetylene torch and know what your doing but it's not difficult. I have never had a bolt or fastner break on me in 35 yrs. of doing it that way or ever had 1 fail to come loose. No matter how rusty the fastner or large the size they always yield to heat. You must use a fairly large tip because you need to heat the area you want to expand quickly and the surrounding as little as possible. The tip needs to be held close to the threads surrounding the sensor (1/4-1/3 in. away) The principal is expanding the threads away from the sensor and breaking the grip of the rust and move quickly to loosen the sensor. If it cools a little to much, reheat (dull to medium red) and move quickly to remove it. Many years ago I worked in the rust belt and if I hadn't had this help I would have no hair- I would have torn it all out! It never failed me in the 35 years of doing it and it wont' fail you (or whoever does it) either. Good luck!

how many miles you have on it currently... thanks

I grew up in cleveland and worked in a gas station there, they torched stuff daily. It may come down to that, I won't be doing it, others with more experience. There is a gas line close by.

85,000 miles

What I don't understand is why the CEL/VSC went off right after I changed the front brakes. I pulled the codes 3 times, 1135 each time.

arch, I won't change the O2 sensor until it goes bad. The car runs fine with the sensor disconnected.

DIY, :eek2:, take it to the dealer

ok thanks i just thought changing to a new one would be a little better, what about changing out af sensors even if it dont need it? i heard folks got better gas mileage just replacing them... thanks buddy

well I am screwed...

torching was no help, the sensor ended up snapping off in the manifold.

sounds like your only option now is to replace the manifold.Their is a web address to an autoparts place,(used autoparts)some where on this board.try and do a search,or maybe someone else has it.I really dont know why they over tighten things like that.

Yep, you are screwed.

New manifold. Just look around junkyards or eBay. At this point, You can try to remove the manifold and break the sensor to either way, that way you might clear the hole and use the same manifold, that's if you didn't damage the threads...

Or,I believe lexmex may have mentioned this,burn out the old sensor,and re-weld in a new one.Not very practical when it comes time for a new one.But it buy`s you another 60,000 miles or so anyway.

My rx is back home with a new sensor and manifold (and less cash in my pocket).

The shop made a couple interesting points, this was the second one they have done. The back manifolds receive a lot more heat and seize more often. Your better off buying a new manifold vs one from a junk yard. A used manifold going thru 5-6 years of heat cycles becomes deformed and is difficult to install, your better off spending $90 more and getting a new one.

BTW the old manifold was unuseable, the entire threaded area snapped right off.

Did the shop mention, how hard/easy it was to remove the manifold bolts?

Salim