Lexmex

Removing and replacing with new pads is actually pretty self-explanatory and just as simple as the front pads.

The next step is to lubricate the main pin and also the sliding bushing as shown in this thread,
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ust-boots.html

Lexmex

Finally, using a c-clamp and one of the old pads as shown push the piston back in. The rest of the steps are merely pulling the caliper back over the pads and tightening the 12 mm bolt.

At the end of this procedure turn on the vehicle and press the brake pedal until it becomes hard. Also take a look at the brake fluid level (it will generally be high), but will adjust accordingly later.

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In the last 4 photos are two problem spots that can occur when changing the rear pads. Note the problem in the second photo below where the two pieces meet as shown by the white circle. This goes to show why one needs to make sure they follow lubrication procedures, https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ust-boots.html

However, in the 3rd photo if you hold tightly and shake this piece up and down (above yellow arrows) and pull toward you as suggested by the white arrow, this should be able to jiggle the piece into position.

Another issue occurs that the area where the bolt goes into runs into the problem shown in the 4th photo (see circled area).

Here, this is the reason to have a brake spreader tool as shown in the 5th photo to compress this piece so it can fit properly.

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My objective here wasn't to show every little peculiarity, but to show that this is not as tough as it looks.

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Note: If you are having trouble compressing...try removing the cap of the brake fluid reservoir in the engine compartment and putting some paper towel around the area. The other option is to carefully unscrew a tad the brake bleeder screw (some fluid will drip) and attach a hose on to the brake bleeder screw to receptacle. Then monitor the fluid level on top, but do not add any unless extremely low as the remainder of the brakes will adjust the level according as to the final level of the fluid and then you can see where you are at, though likely you will be at very high level, and that will get adjusted when you push on the pedal at the end of completing the brake pad change out for all 4 wheels.

salimshah

Thank you for the pictures. You went overbaord and bent the pressure pipes, just to get good pictures.

Short-cut:
You need not take both the bolts out for the front. Just take one out and the piston part just swings up. Having a string around to tie the piston part, once you swing the piston part up.

[which bolt comes out ... the one which has two hex head. Use a box spanner and open end spanners].

Salim

TunedRX300

Lexmex,
Good DIY pictures, did you use the high temperature noise suppression grease that came with Akebono pads? I found them better quality than CRC brand I bought at Autozone.
You will love how ATE Superblue feels after you bleed the old fluid otu, I have them more than one year now, brake feel is still pretty firm.

Lil4X

Wow! Another great DIY . . . you should consider writing the "For Dummies" book - you make it look easy.

Lexmex

I did see that grease, little small packages. You can actually barely see the tip of one visible on the first page where I showed the pads. We actually did not use them. Incidentally, I had not used shims in ages. However, I never had a noise issue until the pads got super, duper down.

I am looking forward to the ATE.

Lexmex

I now see what you are referring to. We have always taken out the two bolts on the front for as long I can remember. It would be possible as you say to just remove say the bottom bolt, stick in the pads and shove the piston back in. Usually one of us holds the caliper or we stick on top of the rotor for just a second.

salimshah

I think one side it is the bottom bolt and on the other it is the top bolt.

Also I would add, look for tears and rips on the rubber boots. Pay special care on the boot around the piston, when you are pushing the piston it. If you apply the force near the outer edge, you can potentially damage the boot/seal [Using a C-clamp and keeping inside the middle is the best practice.]

Pictures by Lexmex are so helpful.

Salim

Lexmex

That point about the boots is especially true down here.

The environment down here loves to eat rubber, especially in areas where there is heat. You may have seen in those spark plug photos that I had to use electrical tape around some rubber insulation.

Fern

Hey LEXMEX from the looks of those hands I would say they look too finely manicured to be the hands of your uncle the mechanic.

Guess you must have been the tech in the pictures...

Lexmex

That would be my cousin Rodrigo. He wanted some extra cash for the weekend, so he helped out as he did in the Coolant DIY a few months back My uncle Antonio or my cousin Carlos, now they do have those hands you are referring to along with my big cousin Antonio (who helped me with the differential/transfer case fluids about a year ago).

Nickv

Ok, sooooo.... where do you apply the noise suppression grease? when you use it.

Btw, thanks so much for these very helpful DIY tips.
Nick

Nickv

So I need to replace my brake pads and I saw this thread. Saw the recommendation for the Akebono ProAct pads and went shopping. Went to Amazon, as I am prone to do, and found some, even found some Akebono pads that Amazon says fit my RX300. But was unsure, so I shopped some more stopping at the autowharehouse. They had too many different models that fit my car. So what model of Akebono pads should I get for the front and for the rear? I think I can change the pads...hopefully...
Thanks for any advice,
Nick

artbuc

Maybe I missed it but I didn't see any reference to cleaning/lubing the caliper slide pins. THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT STEP, especially on the rear brakes. I replace brake fluid every two years. Everytime I discover the rear pins are sticking. I believe it is because of small clearance between pin OD and caliper bore ID which tends to wipe lube away.

Lexmex

artbuc,

I plan to do my pads again in the spring, this time in my driveway and I'll try to remember to take some photos of this. When I did this the first time I found no issue with my pins, but it has been some time since then and the last time that I did my pads before I left Mexico we did do this step. Feel free if you want to add a photo of this to this particular thread.