Mirage89

My door locks are sluggish when using the remote or the power lock button and do not fully lock everytime.

Guys, I cant understand if I need the "piggy-back method" (link here I cant really understand this guy) or 2002RX300's method (link here) to solve my problem.

salimshah

Read both and figure out which one you can tackle.

Salim

99rx

iTrader: (6)

You are probably best to go with 2002RX300's method because it has pictures and it is very detailed.

2002RX300

The main problem people get hung up on, is taking apart the lock actuator housing assembly. All you have to do is take your time, many people don't have the patience and end up cutting themselves or cracking the housing (take your time, no need to hurry). Just slowly cut around the housing with a box cutter (box cutter works best, used it on 3 actuators so far) just make sure you have extra blades on hand. You can actually feel the blade cut through the glue holding the 2 sides together. I used some loctite superglue sparingly on a few places after, just to seal it tighter against dirt intrusion.

Mirage89

I wasn't sure if the two methods were addressing the same issue (honestly didn't read close enough in the first tutorial that linked to another site as I came across its 13 page thread).

I'm gonna call O'Reilly and see if they have any motors (online stock search = NO), and then probably order 4 off the internet.

Thanks 2002RX300 for the great walkthrough

Thanks salimshah for all the advice and tips throughout almost every post on this board.

Thanks 99rx for the short and simple answer.

salimshah

Word of caution ,,,, you need to get the exact motor. Cavity and contacts and shaft dia (even length ... unless you are willing to cut it off) are all very important. If you follow the threads here, for a while we were all waiting for some one to confirm. Buy them in small quantity and store them away or depending on how generous you feel, give them away to CL members (charge the shipping fee).

As far frequent posting ... I have at times put my foot in my mouth and gave bad advice too. Fellow members have been graceful enough to take the good stuff and ignore the bad.


Salim

artbuc

Since I only did the piggy-back I can't compare the two methods. However, if you search this forum, you will find detailed and understandable instructions along with excellent photos for the piggy-back. Also, I can't believe replacing the motor could possibly be easier than doing the piggy-back. In any case, good-luck.

99rx

iTrader: (6)

I say it's probably easier, as I am having a member on here do it within the next few weeks... I am hoping it is going to cure the problem I have with the car not recognizing when the drivers door is open and closed and finally be able to program the new key I bought...

Mirage89

Thanks for the warnings, guys.

I've learned that the RX330 and the LS430 require a D-shaped shaft, but I have not been able to confirm anything about the RX300 (text or pics from tutorials).

I was planning on purchasing this motor:
MABUCHI FC280PC-22125


Auction details state that it is a ROUND SHAFT and works on LS400 and RX300, so perhaps a change was made from a round to D-shaped shaft from 1st to 2nd generation?

If the shaft isn't exact, I don't have a problem filling down the shafts to make a D.

99rx

iTrader: (6)

Those are the correct ones, order away! I ordered those same 4 about 2 months ago. Same price.

salimshah

Wait!

The door ajar is a separate sensor built inside the door actuator.

The door actuator is:
a) mechanical assembly with catches to the door hook
b) rods and levers to release the door catch.
c) rods and links that provide door lock (mechanical ... linked to the inside door lock ****)
d) motorized lock/unlock mechanism.
e) Sensor that recognized the door catch is secure or not (door ajar)
f optional) For front actuator rods and links to the key lock

door ajar is part of the actuator but independent of the door lock.

Salim