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Air/Fuel Sensor Replacement Tips

Old Aug 21, 2006 | 11:12 PM
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Default Air/Fuel Sensor Replacement Tips

After being pushed in the right direction by the usual suspects (Tammy and Lexmex), I finally ordered and installed Bank 1, Sensor 1. That is the one in the rear against the firewall that everyone always complains about.

Let me first say that I though I was in for it with all that I read, but once I got the car on ramps, it looked much easier than the ones I had done on some of my European cars. Those usually required me to drop a drive shaft or most of the exhaust. Those that have done it will hate to hear this, but the whole thing took less than 30-minutes including snapping the pictures. Here is what I learned:

1) Most of the O2 sensor sockets out there are horrible and tend to flex or twist because of the opening. My two sockets did the same thing, so once I had the connector off, I slid a 22mm box wrench on to the sensor and was able to get a good grip on it.

2) Everyone says to use penetrating oil, but I always found that when things are stuck, they are really stuck and all the oil will do is make the socket or wrench slip off or strip the thing you are working on. I did mine dry.

3) The hardest part of the job is getting the electrical connector apart.

4) AutoZone "rents" code readers. What you do is sort of buy one of their used units for about $180 and then return it when you are done. Very helpful and easy to use when you need to know the codes your car is throwing off.

OK, so here are some pictures that will hopefully help someone else. This one shows both the sensor (A) and the connector (B). The O2 sensor has already been disconnected.



The electrical connector is the real pain because it is hard to figure out until you do it. If you push down or squeeze hard enough on the clip where I have an arrow in this picture, it sort of pushes the connector out and then you can pull it the rest of the way.



Here is an image of the connector for the front O2 sensor so you can see how the clip works . You can see the little "grip steps" on it and it makes it easier to see where you squeeze it at.


Last edited by hksimpson; Aug 22, 2006 at 09:15 AM.
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 07:20 AM
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This is outstanding. No doubt it is easier with the RX up on a ramp or other platform.
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 09:14 AM
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I did the work on some of the Blitz Rhino Ramps. They are some kind of composite material and have rubber gripper feet so they don't slide forward when you pull your car up on them. My model is the four wheel drive one so maybe it is a little higher, but I was amazed how comfortable is was under they with just being on ramps. I am used to having to use jack stands on their highest settings and still bumping around.

I am actually looking forward to doing the fluid changes now...
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by hksimpson
I did the work on some of the Blitz Rhino Ramps. They are some kind of composite material and have rubber gripper feet so they don't slide forward when you pull your car up on them. My model is the four wheel drive one so maybe it is a little higher, but I was amazed how comfortable is was under they with just being on ramps. I am used to having to use jack stands on their highest settings and still bumping around.

I am actually looking forward to doing the fluid changes now...
That is nice. I may have to get one of those when I go back to the states in the future.

My uncle and I were going to start on digging out a trench at the garage to get underneath vehicles better and then cover it over with a big steel plate.
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