alflash

Hello,
Dear jacknk,
May be useful this quotes ("Tony from Florida writes*:")
" ... replaced both (air fuel ratio sensor - alflash) with Bosch part # 13333, cleared dtc and P1155 rest within 1 minute...
...I then checked the amperage on the heater circuits KOER and found 8 mA on B2 S1 and 100 mA on B1 S1, the spec is 250 mA - 8A. So both were too low, however only B2 S1 would trigger a DTC.
I then checked the heater resistance of B2 S1 and found it to be 3.5 ohms KOER, the spec at 1472 deg F is 1.8 - 3.2 ohms, apparently .3 of an ohm is enough to cause the problem.
I installed 2 Toyota afr sensors and the problem is corrected."
HTH,
-------------------
*Read earlier on 01 Lexus RX 300 DTC P1155 - "A/F Sensor Heater B2S1 Circuit Malfunction"

jacknk

I have not had a chance to install a new sensor but will install Denso when I do. Hopefully this will solve the code problem. If it does then I also assume the Bosch is not a suitable replacement as the vehicle will continue to generate a code. I will post after I replace the sensor with results.

alflash

Thanks for "feedback"
Best Regards,

rarreaza

Hello,

I just happened to be searching about DTC P1135 and will looking at the sensors and other recomendations. In the meantime, is it safe to drive the car and not damage the engine?

Lexmex

From my memory...there is a sort of default system the computer will register to keep the car running (though it won't be up to its full potential)...and that may not even be noticeable at all.

rarreaza

All,

The Engine and VCS lights came on and I started researching about it through this and other Lexus posting (which helped me learn a LOT) and I did the following.

1.- Took my car to a local Autozone to get a computer readout. The DTC code shown was P1135 A/F Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - FREE of charge!!!
2.- I looked-up part numbers and prices for this sensor, including my Lexus dealer.
Toyota part number: 89467-48011 $228 (Lexus dealer)
Denso part number: 234-9009 $163 (cheapest I found)
Walker part number: 250-54001 $200
3.- Learned (the hard way) the Bank 1, Sensor 1 is the one towards the rear of the engine connected to the exhaust manifold. You can only get to it from under the car. (Very painfull)
4.- Since it looked like I was going to "spit-off" $300 - $400 because of a lousy sensor, I decided to take a calculated chance and looked at my local junk yard for an engine with the right sensor still on it. To locate an engine with the correct sensors you can go to www.densoproducts.com and do a search for 234-9009. You will get a list of all the Lexus/Toyota models that take the same oxigen sensor, I got 18 total. In my case I found a '99 RX 300 engine with both sensors on. PRICE $50.00!!!
5.- Disconect the negative terminal of your battery
6.- Lift the car so you can get under (I used ramps, front end) and disconnect the wire to the sensor (8" from the sensor)
7.- Using a O2 sensor socket replace the sensor and re-connect the wire.
8.- Re-connect your battery
9.- Start your car and the Engine and VSC lights disappear!!!

As I mentioned above I'm chancing the durability of the sensor since I'm putting a used one, but if it fails again, $50 more bucks and I'm still ahead...

Just wanted to tell my long story as some of you may learn from my experience.

jacknk

Today I finally got around to replacing the air/fuel sensor and here is what I have learned on the 2002 RX300.

1. The Bosch replacement would not correct the P1135 code. I did not measure the resistance across the heating element because when I tried it I had not received alflash post about the correct resistance.

2. A bad sensor will have an open circuit across the heating element which is the 2 black wires.

3. A Denso generic has a resistance of 8 ohms across the heating element and vehicle will still generate a P1135 code.

4. Installed Toyota 89467-48011 which has resistance of 1.2 ohms and problem is solved.

So from alflash information and my experience if the air fuel sensor heating element goes bad you will get a P1135 code. You can ohm the 2 black wires and you will have an open circuit. The replacement sensor much read between .8 and 1.4 ohms to work properly and not generate the P1135 code.

Thanks alflash for your valuable information.

alflash

Hello,
Thanks for Info.
About Bosch13333.
As I know, Toyota has use new "Planar" A/F Sensor*. A second generation it Sensor was developed to meet more stringent emission regulations. This A/F Sensor reaches operating temperature faster that the previous (aka Cup Element) A/F sensor. This allows the ECM to go into closed loop vuel control faster when the engine is cold reducing cold start emission.
Like previous O2 and AF Sensors, the planar AFS has ambient air on one side of the ZrO2 and exhaust gases on the other side.
The planar AFS has the same detecting range and signal characteristics as the previous cup element. But heater element has higher resistance! This AFS is not interchangeable with the older, cup element AFS. Heater Resistance (at 68 degr.F)=1.8-3.4 Ohm. The heater is imbedded into aluminum oxide. When the heater is ON, the aluminum oxide conducts heat directly to the zirconium dioxide layer bring the AFS to operating temperature quickly.
The heater monitor continuously detects over current or under current condition and set DTC in one trip. The never planar AFS can be identified by its shorted body (13 mm).

May be it Bosch Sensor is equivalent to Planar Sensor...
*Off. Toyota use "new" DTC for Planar A/F Sensor (e.g. P2237 "Oxygen Sensor Pumping Current Circuit / Open (for A/F sensor) (B1S1)", P2A00 A/F Sensor Circuit Slow Response (B1S1))

Best Regards,

ToyCam05

HEllo guys,

I bought used Toyota Camry, 2005 XLE, V6. after a month of the overseas shipping (battery terminal was unpluged) VSC, Track-Off and Check engine signs appeared on the screen

During the computer diagnostic of my vehicle the P2241 error has arised. what does it stand for? whre is the damn problem?

Can somebody advise on how this problem could be fixed?

thanks in advance

Lexmex

You might want to take a look at this thread, https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=166002

ToyCam05

Thanks a lot man

maccdonald

I also have the p1135 code coming up on my 2000 es 300. I am looking to replace it what part should I use? I have heard that the part needs to be from Toyota no just a after market part from anyone.

code58

Holy Toledo Mac, this thread has a VERY long beard, it's 4 years old. Buy the sensor (air/fuel ratio sensor) from Amazon, by far the best price. It will be a Denso (original equipment) and have a Denso part #, but is the exact same part for a ton less money. It won't hurt to drive the car till you get the new sensor because the P1135 is only the heater code, and will have NO adverse affect at all. I want to say the Denso # is 234-9006 or something like that- you can look it up on their site. Should be about $100., MUCH cheaper than you can buy OEM anywhere else.

lockie

Before going off to replace your O2 sensors, have a good look at your exhaust system. A very small loss of pressure can set off the 'check engine' light.

Hatchman

I just ordered one from Amazon yesterday, it is 234-9009, $106 shipped.