hwy1isf

iTrader: (1)

I just read through all the post again, great article. Unless I missed it did you ever post the Video Dave?

SCCAForums

I don't think I did... I'm not sure I recorded anyone buy my dad driving (when I was passenger recording)... No video of me driving... or maybe I squeezed it in my headrest... I'm going to have to check into this for everyone! Thanks for reminding me!

I'll do my best to come up with some vids!

hwy1isf

iTrader: (1)

I ran the F a couple months ago at Chuckwalla, and like you was very impressed with the car, handling, brakes, the whole package.

Yea, love to see the video.

ES3

Great thread. Is this wheel/tire setup still the most recommended?
Also, didn't realize the electronic LSD is still on, even with holding the trac button for more than 3 seconds. Is the pedal dance truly needed to prevent brake damage? (by the system trying to break the wheels when it thinks car is spinning)
Thx!

lutfy

I am at the right thread

Dave/other track nuts, you can shine some light on my questions.

A bit about myself, I have a wheel to wheel racing background (BMWCCA) and have been tracking/TT/racing since 94. Previous have owned a few E36 M3s both in the US and Dubai so natural tendency was to go for an E92. One of my students had one and asked me to take his car out in the instructors session at Road ATL. Car was brilliant and I enjoyed the experience.

My gripe with modern BMWs is the transmission. Not sure how the DCT will be holding up, given the SMGs were a night mare with pumps failing at 60K miles, the Vanos on the E60s are a piece of work and tend to fail costing $5K.

I sold the race car and want a car I can carry my family (have a 1 year old) and can hit the track once in a while when I am not renting rides and I want the car to perform without any headaches hence I am looking towards this car, most likely I will be getting 10+ for the LSD.

Questions:

1) so I can fit 285 on all four corners without any fender rolling or spacers right?

2) Is there any cooling issue with this car? No limp mode because the car over heats/transmission? Does this car come with an external oil and transmission cooler?

3) Whats the max camber I can get and how? I intend to keep the car STOCK except for track wheels/tires and pads.

4) If I were to order one new, can I get one without the sunroof? Are 10+ cars out there without sunroof? I am 6'4 so this is a concern.

Any other track related issues I need to be weary of?

Thank you in advance.

Regards,

Lutfy

ES3

Fantastic questions, unfortunately I can't answer most, as I've not tracked the beast. Be aware the stock camber is a bit aggressive, so internal tire cupping up front comes quickly. Of course you're probably aware. Also, suspension improvements in 11, as well as a revised gauge cluster with digital speedo, 12 will have further yet suspension improvements, and new wheels as an option. FYI. I Helene sunroof delete is an option, even if a rare one.

ES3

Sorry, on mobile site, no edit option. Helene=believe. :-)

lutfy

Thanks for the information.

So it looks like there will be internal tire cupping? (from street driving). I hope with a square setup, I am not plowing and burning up the front outside tires due to lack of camber on track.

I did read up the changes on MY11 and MY12. How much of a PITA is it to put an LSD on an 08? Cost/time?

Lutfy

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

1) - yes
2) - no - I ran at CMP in 102 degree heat without issues. A larger oil cooler wouldn't be bad, but peak temps were ~275.
3) - no camber adjustments from the factory. Front could definitely use more
4) - yes you can, and likely you'll need it. I'm 6'2" and my helmet (Bell M-3) rubs on the headliner sufficiently for me to have to compromise position a bit. Sunroof delete would be ideal for solving this, as it adds 1.8" of headroom.

I have a First Track Day thread in this section identifying everything you'll need - there's advice for newbs and experts alike.

lutfy

Thanks for the advice. I checked out your links.

Final question, looks like the front pads wear out a lot more than the rears. A bit technical, BMWs run 2:1 bias and previously I would wear out 2 front pads to 1 year in both E36s and E46s. My STi was a different animal burning a whole set of fronts in one weekend (I did win TTB back in 07 with that car at Road ATL) without wearing the rears. I could swear I burned 4 or 5 front pads and the rears were still half way worn. The bias was something 3 or so to 1 in that car. What about the ISF?

As for the rotors, since you guys helped me out, I'll chime in Racer's best kept secret, Coleman Machine. They used to make rotors for Prodrive and Nascar. I had mine sent in and they made me a 2 piece set for my STi. Later on I would order just the outer ring. EXTREMELY Cost effective and since it was quality rotor and heat treated, I would get an entire season out of them vs cracking them up every 2 weekends.

You can send your rotor to them, they will measure and send you a pair (one piece) non drilled. It would be heat treated so you wont have to worry about cracks showing up that easily. Future orders can he had by calling them as they already would have your specs so no need to send the rotor back. The club could benefit from it as well.

Thanks guys.

Lutfy

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I'm still on my first set of Carbotech XP-10 rear pads and I've burned through three sets of XP-12s in the front. Front rotors have cracked to limits and been replaced once, rear rotors are barely worn - I have yet to measure anything like significant wear in the rear and I'm running up on 56k miles pretty quickly.

I'd love to have decent hats with replaceable rotors, but Lexus really put the screws to us with a 360mm rotor instead of the standard 355. What kind of money does Coleman get for a set of fronts?

lutfy

I recall my rotor hats/rings costing me around $125 or so (make sure you get them heat treated, it can hold up to many heat cycles and they lasted me till I went through down to the wear/specs rather than cracking the rotors like before). My OEM STi rotors were not directional and the new ones were.

The base with the ring should cost you pretty much the same as what you'd expect to pay at the dealer (around 250ish?). I HIGHLY suggest you track guys looking into it (no affiliation, just a VERY happy camper). A lot of us BMW Club racers get our hats/rotors from them as well.

I believe there is a gentleman by the name of Trey. Ask him what it takes to get a wholesale account with them too. Does not matter if you have 355 or 360. They can replicate anything.

www.colemanmachine.com

Keep me posted as to what they say.

Lutfy

ERDoc74

Bump of an old but awesome thread!.... BTW... did anybody check with Coleman Machine on the rotors?/? just curious

SCCAForums

Just got an 'email reminder' of this thread. I'm 6'2 as well.. 200lbs... and fit fine.

OEM Rotors seem to only be like $200 each (range?)

The 285 Sq. setup didn't cup at all for me... but I rotated each day.

Absolutely no overheating issues with the car... shows it's true colors at the track!

Dave