Auto Transmission Issue at 33k
Auto Transmission Issue at 33k
Well, as we know the auto tranny can have a delay and/or be jerky at certain RPMs. We know that manual mode helps with some issues. There have been a couple times before in full auto “S” mode that when I mash the gas pedal, there is big delay/hesitation (almost like complete fuel cut) before the power kicks in.
Yesterday, I was on the way home driving in Sport full auto mode. I made a right turn at a light and went full throttle. The car did the same hesitation while the gears dropped to a lower gear...but then it acted like it went into limp mode. I tried accelerating but would barely go and rpms barely went up. Tried switching to manual mode and same thing. I was NOT happy at that moment. Drove slowly back home and just parked in the garage. Decided to wait until the next morning to troubleshoot but was weighing on my mind the whole time. I don’t do well when things don’t work like they are supposed to
In my head I am analyzing the situation and going through all scenarios about what it could be. I am **** about taking care of my car and getting all required maintenance completed when it is due. I know oil is still good and so is the level. Air intake filter is good and recently cleaned at my last maintenance visit (30k miles...at 33k now). Transmission fluid was flushed/replaced at last visit which cost me extra so that is still good as well as the level. Spark and ignition should be fine. Battery and alternator should still be fine...no issues with electricity/charge that is apparent. Brakes or suspension would not cause this issue.
At this point, I am thinking fuel pumps or tranny ECU programming...then I decided I would start with the most basic and go from there: ECU reset.
This morning I went out and disconnected the battery. Pressed on the brake pedal and waited for 60 seconds. Reconnected and tried to turn on the car but it stalled. Looks like the computer needed to reinitialize. I waited until it finished and then the car started up fine. Put it in reverse, pulled out of garage, left the car there running to sufficiently warm up while I went back inside to eat bfast.
After waiting about 10 mins, I went back outside and got in. Reprogrammed the seat setting in memory. Engine temp display was showing arrow at the normal middle spot so took the cat out for a spin for analysis. Car was in full auto “S” mode and I immediately noticed it was shifting better and the RPMs were increasing like normal. Good sign. Slowly drove down the road trying to see if any volatility or erratic behavior with engine and/or transmission. Nothing. Good sign. At the end of the one road and knowing that the tranny oil was sufficiently warm, I started to increase my acceleration. Feeling good/normal. At this point, I am still hesitant to fully lay into it with the fear of the previous issue reoccurring. I decide to go for it. Acceleration is strong with no flux/hesitation. Now I can breathe a sigh of relief and thank God that it is driving normal again
I did the ECU reflash at the dealer a while ago and no noticeable change but still have the recall notification about the HPFPs. At some point, I will take it in for that and let the tech know about what recently happened with the car. Maybe at the 35k service.
Really weird what occurred and even weirder was that there was no CEL during/after it occurred. Weirder still is an ECU reset seems to have alleviated my issue.
Any thoughts or has anyone had this happen as well?
Yesterday, I was on the way home driving in Sport full auto mode. I made a right turn at a light and went full throttle. The car did the same hesitation while the gears dropped to a lower gear...but then it acted like it went into limp mode. I tried accelerating but would barely go and rpms barely went up. Tried switching to manual mode and same thing. I was NOT happy at that moment. Drove slowly back home and just parked in the garage. Decided to wait until the next morning to troubleshoot but was weighing on my mind the whole time. I don’t do well when things don’t work like they are supposed to
In my head I am analyzing the situation and going through all scenarios about what it could be. I am **** about taking care of my car and getting all required maintenance completed when it is due. I know oil is still good and so is the level. Air intake filter is good and recently cleaned at my last maintenance visit (30k miles...at 33k now). Transmission fluid was flushed/replaced at last visit which cost me extra so that is still good as well as the level. Spark and ignition should be fine. Battery and alternator should still be fine...no issues with electricity/charge that is apparent. Brakes or suspension would not cause this issue.
At this point, I am thinking fuel pumps or tranny ECU programming...then I decided I would start with the most basic and go from there: ECU reset.
This morning I went out and disconnected the battery. Pressed on the brake pedal and waited for 60 seconds. Reconnected and tried to turn on the car but it stalled. Looks like the computer needed to reinitialize. I waited until it finished and then the car started up fine. Put it in reverse, pulled out of garage, left the car there running to sufficiently warm up while I went back inside to eat bfast.
After waiting about 10 mins, I went back outside and got in. Reprogrammed the seat setting in memory. Engine temp display was showing arrow at the normal middle spot so took the cat out for a spin for analysis. Car was in full auto “S” mode and I immediately noticed it was shifting better and the RPMs were increasing like normal. Good sign. Slowly drove down the road trying to see if any volatility or erratic behavior with engine and/or transmission. Nothing. Good sign. At the end of the one road and knowing that the tranny oil was sufficiently warm, I started to increase my acceleration. Feeling good/normal. At this point, I am still hesitant to fully lay into it with the fear of the previous issue reoccurring. I decide to go for it. Acceleration is strong with no flux/hesitation. Now I can breathe a sigh of relief and thank God that it is driving normal again
I did the ECU reflash at the dealer a while ago and no noticeable change but still have the recall notification about the HPFPs. At some point, I will take it in for that and let the tech know about what recently happened with the car. Maybe at the 35k service.
Really weird what occurred and even weirder was that there was no CEL during/after it occurred. Weirder still is an ECU reset seems to have alleviated my issue.
Any thoughts or has anyone had this happen as well?
Last edited by Ne1tHeRe; Dec 28, 2019 at 07:33 AM.
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 295
Likes: 64
From: Texas
Was not aware that the brake pedal had to be pressed for ECU reset, nice to know!
Why transmission change so soon? I would consider it at about 60,000 miles or so, but may not, since I don't trust the Lexus mechanics to do it right. Heck, they if in five tries, have never filled the oil to the right level, so why trust them to change out the transmission oil, which I can't check for accuracy?
I'm at 40,000 miles, and no problems at all. My last 10 cars have always been traded in after 2-3 years, but like my RCF so much I may keep it longer, but still looking at the 2020 Corvette or LC500 for the future.
Why transmission change so soon? I would consider it at about 60,000 miles or so, but may not, since I don't trust the Lexus mechanics to do it right. Heck, they if in five tries, have never filled the oil to the right level, so why trust them to change out the transmission oil, which I can't check for accuracy?
I'm at 40,000 miles, and no problems at all. My last 10 cars have always been traded in after 2-3 years, but like my RCF so much I may keep it longer, but still looking at the 2020 Corvette or LC500 for the future.
Was not aware that the brake pedal had to be pressed for ECU reset, nice to know!
Why transmission change so soon? I would consider it at about 60,000 miles or so, but may not, since I don't trust the Lexus mechanics to do it right. Heck, they if in five tries, have never filled the oil to the right level, so why trust them to change out the transmission oil, which I can't check for accuracy?
I'm at 40,000 miles, and no problems at all. My last 10 cars have always been traded in after 2-3 years, but like my RCF so much I may keep it longer, but still looking at the 2020 Corvette or LC500 for the future.
Why transmission change so soon? I would consider it at about 60,000 miles or so, but may not, since I don't trust the Lexus mechanics to do it right. Heck, they if in five tries, have never filled the oil to the right level, so why trust them to change out the transmission oil, which I can't check for accuracy?
I'm at 40,000 miles, and no problems at all. My last 10 cars have always been traded in after 2-3 years, but like my RCF so much I may keep it longer, but still looking at the 2020 Corvette or LC500 for the future.
I am at 33k and I still have my original transmission. Issue seemed to resolve itself after ECU reset.
Also, brake pedal just helps to speed up depletion of any power stored in reserve capacitors...not necessary/mandatory to do.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 870
Likes: 333
From: Ga
Will, was car low on gas? 1/4 tank or less ?
When on track I never run sessions with less than say 1/3 tank.
In high G’s the fuel gets slung to the side and the pump starves which gives you fuel cut symptoms.
On street with the gas tank super low and you sling a corner fast can give you same symptom I assume, although I’ve never experienced on the street myself. Only. On track.
When on track I never run sessions with less than say 1/3 tank.
In high G’s the fuel gets slung to the side and the pump starves which gives you fuel cut symptoms.
On street with the gas tank super low and you sling a corner fast can give you same symptom I assume, although I’ve never experienced on the street myself. Only. On track.
Lead Lap
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 630
Likes: 72
From: Ontario
You're destroying your transmission shift solenoids by driving like a teenager and going full throttle all the time. I'd suggest taking your car to a transmission shop and stop treating your car like this before you completely destroy the transmission. For you to have this sort of problem with 30k miles is absolutely shameful.
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Will, was car low on gas? 1/4 tank or less ?
When on track I never run sessions with less than say 1/3 tank.
In high G’s the fuel gets slung to the side and the pump starves which gives you fuel cut symptoms.
On street with the gas tank super low and you sling a corner fast can give you same symptom I assume, although I’ve never experienced on the street myself. Only. On track.
When on track I never run sessions with less than say 1/3 tank.
In high G’s the fuel gets slung to the side and the pump starves which gives you fuel cut symptoms.
On street with the gas tank super low and you sling a corner fast can give you same symptom I assume, although I’ve never experienced on the street myself. Only. On track.
You're destroying your transmission shift solenoids by driving like a teenager and going full throttle all the time. I'd suggest taking your car to a transmission shop and stop treating your car like this before you completely destroy the transmission. For you to have this sort of problem with 30k miles is absolutely shameful.
Every car is perfect and there a no defects or gremlins that ever come up, right?
But thanks for being completely unhelpful...back on topic.
Last edited by Ne1tHeRe; Dec 29, 2019 at 08:42 AM.
Update: So transmission gremlin seems to have gone back into hibernation after ECU reset. Hoping it does not rear its ugly head again. Will bring it up with the head mechanic at the dealership next time I am there.
Glad you were able to get the gremlins to go away, but fearful its temporarily, curious on why the long wait on the fuel pump recall??
If its time or opportunity, they will give you a loaner, shouldn't have your car for more than 2 days or so (depending this schedule of course).
If its time or opportunity, they will give you a loaner, shouldn't have your car for more than 2 days or so (depending this schedule of course).
Pole Position
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,634
Likes: 256
From: CA
Maybe now the ambient temperature is colder and your transmission fluid level is below a certain level to trigger all your issues?
I would get it checked out ASAP at the Lexus dealership. Also to get the recall done on the high pressure fuel railings. You know the Lexus dealership will fill up your gas tank whenever you take it in for any factory recalls. So go into the Lexus dealership on an empty gas tank!!!
I would get it checked out ASAP at the Lexus dealership. Also to get the recall done on the high pressure fuel railings. You know the Lexus dealership will fill up your gas tank whenever you take it in for any factory recalls. So go into the Lexus dealership on an empty gas tank!!!
Lexus Champion
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 10,364
Likes: 2,762
From: Calgary, AB
Could it be that the transmission fluid was not properly warm? The fluids take forever to get up to temperature. The transmission cold in manual or auto mode feels herky, jerky, slow and upshifts sometimes abruptly at 5000 rpm even in manual mode with torque converter fully locked/disabled still refuses to downshift/rev-matches etc. Once it is fully warmed up, it becomes properly snappy and aggressive.