Roll Race: Stock RC-F vs Stock BMW M4
#3
Lexus Champion
When i bought the RCF, I am well aware the M4 is a tad faster. But dollar for dollar, for what i paid, my RCF is much faster. Given if the RCF, M4, CTS V, C63 are selling at the same price after discount, it would been the CTS V hands down for performance and overall package. BTW, reliability doesnt really matter until warranty expires after 5 years. Which most already changed cars by then
The following users liked this post:
finny76 (06-23-17)
#6
Lexus Test Driver
Did the M4 have a passenger? The RCF had one so I am wondering if the M4 had it as well?
The 400 lbs weight difference does show its ugly side in the acceleration. The frankenstein chassis really adds a lot to the weight. If RCF was around 3700 lbs or so without the heavy middle IS-C portion (since a convertible is not going to be built anyway), it would have been a few tenths quicker. Regardless, I would get an RCF. The engine alone is worth some compromise in the acceleration.
The 400 lbs weight difference does show its ugly side in the acceleration. The frankenstein chassis really adds a lot to the weight. If RCF was around 3700 lbs or so without the heavy middle IS-C portion (since a convertible is not going to be built anyway), it would have been a few tenths quicker. Regardless, I would get an RCF. The engine alone is worth some compromise in the acceleration.
Trending Topics
#10
When i bought the RCF, I am well aware the M4 is a tad faster. But dollar for dollar, for what i paid, my RCF is much faster. Given if the RCF, M4, CTS V, C63 are selling at the same price after discount, it would been the CTS V hands down for performance and overall package. BTW, reliability doesnt really matter until warranty expires after 5 years. Which most already changed cars by then
I have friends with old bimmers, audis, etc.... those cars are nice, but are often dumpster fires of randomly broken ****. I think if someone rode an RCF past 100K vs an M4 or something, the total costs comparison would be pretty hilarious by the time the cars were spent. (not to mention the aggravation of random broken ****, lol).
-Mike
#11
Lexus Champion
Reliability does matter- , some people buy cars to keep them for the long haul. Not everyone can afford to buy a car like this and throw it away every 2-3 years.
I have friends with old bimmers, audis, etc.... those cars are nice, but are often dumpster fires of randomly broken ****. I think if someone rode an RCF past 100K vs an M4 or something, the total costs comparison would be pretty hilarious by the time the cars were spent. (not to mention the aggravation of random broken ****, lol).
-Mike
I have friends with old bimmers, audis, etc.... those cars are nice, but are often dumpster fires of randomly broken ****. I think if someone rode an RCF past 100K vs an M4 or something, the total costs comparison would be pretty hilarious by the time the cars were spent. (not to mention the aggravation of random broken ****, lol).
-Mike
Yes i agree Germans will break much much easier and have much higher maintenance cost post warranty, but those units are usually passed onto secondhand buyer wannabe ballers. If they are too stupid to take ownership without buying extended warranty, they will pay the consequence.
#12
its a very rare case someone can afford a 60-90k+ car new will keep the car past 4-5 years after warranty. Most lease with tax benefit or are car enthusiast that want the newest, latest and best. Use IS F owners for example, most CURRENT owners bought second hand and rarely can you find someone owned one since 2008 (there is one on here). Price conscious consumers that keep cars until the wheels fall off usually buy Accord and Camry class and wouldn't splurge for an expensive performance car, upkeep cost and hope it doesn't break at all.Yes i agree Germans will break much much easier and have much higher maintenance cost post warranty, but those units are usually passed onto secondhand buyer wannabe ballers. If they are too stupid to take ownership without buying extended warranty, they will pay the consequence.
I've also noticed a trend even around here- there are a bunch of members here that seem to have some nice maintenance nightmare cars in their garage; but they also own a Lexus and it's probably their daily. There's a really good, captain obvious reason for this; by putting the commuting mileage on the Lexus they effectively hedge against repair bills on the "fun and/or better looking car".
Cars like the RCF are an interesting experiment in "Having your cake and eating it too". I for one will be curious when some folks start showing up around here with RCFs and GSFs that have actually put serious miles on them. Some of us, in addition to not throwing cars away every 2-3 years, also put on serious mileage. I literally cannot lease a car, not even a fun car, because even on a weekend car I'd blow out, or come pretty close to blowing out a 15K lease in under a year.
-Mike
#13
Not sure where this video was taken but that seems like a faster than normal pulling M4. Hard to tell I suppose. The M4 also will pound the RC F in higher elevations. Also in roll racing boost has a huge effect vs N/A cars. I forgot what magazine did a 1/4 but the M4 barely inched away, and it's a better set up platform.
I'm interested how the RC F would perform with the RR Racing Rotor swap and the lithium battery, that is 30lbs off of rotational mass, and overall 67lbs dropped, with RR's coil over's that would be a total of 107lbs shed. The M4 comes with track ready suspension, where as the RC F is like a GT Touring car. I wonder if the RC F had come from factory with better suspension if all the car magazines would have ripped on it as hard, it likely could have kept up with the M4 around the track, I've driven the M4 stock and it feels like my modded RC F. And then there is something to be said about heat soak, with 10quarts in the sump and N/A, I bet these two cars head to head for a few hours versus a minute would have a different outcome.
I bought CPO with just under 1,000 miles. I got a 9 year unlimited warranty zero deductible and road side, tires, etc. At 50,000 miles a year, someone is going to eat this trans and diff rebuild and it won't be me lol Maybe Toyota will pay to have my "lifetime fluids" changed or they're looking at a guranteed repair bill.
Buying a new RC F, the max warranty I believe is 9 years/125,000 miles
I'm interested how the RC F would perform with the RR Racing Rotor swap and the lithium battery, that is 30lbs off of rotational mass, and overall 67lbs dropped, with RR's coil over's that would be a total of 107lbs shed. The M4 comes with track ready suspension, where as the RC F is like a GT Touring car. I wonder if the RC F had come from factory with better suspension if all the car magazines would have ripped on it as hard, it likely could have kept up with the M4 around the track, I've driven the M4 stock and it feels like my modded RC F. And then there is something to be said about heat soak, with 10quarts in the sump and N/A, I bet these two cars head to head for a few hours versus a minute would have a different outcome.
I bought CPO with just under 1,000 miles. I got a 9 year unlimited warranty zero deductible and road side, tires, etc. At 50,000 miles a year, someone is going to eat this trans and diff rebuild and it won't be me lol Maybe Toyota will pay to have my "lifetime fluids" changed or they're looking at a guranteed repair bill.
Buying a new RC F, the max warranty I believe is 9 years/125,000 miles
#14
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (9)
its a very rare case someone can afford a 60-90k+ car new will keep the car past 4-5 years after warranty. Most lease with tax benefit or are car enthusiast that want the newest, latest and best. Use IS F owners for example, most CURRENT owners bought second hand and rarely can you find someone owned one since 2008 (there is one on here).
Lou
The following users liked this post:
finny76 (11-26-17)