Sorry, But your Remote Start Won't Work
#47
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
OnStar doesn't actively monitor your car anymore than Lexus safety sense does, it's passive monitoring that is triggered in the event of a crash.
OnStar called the guy because he crashed and the impact triggered the safety response system, not because of "unusual driving patterns". There is no way on this earth I would believe that, I have owned 6 cars with active OnStar subscription and tracked or did extreme off-roading with all of them, and not once was I ever contacted because of "unusual driving patterns", unless you can show me actual founded proof, that statement is nothing more than conjecture and conspiracy mongering....
OnStar called the guy because he crashed and the impact triggered the safety response system, not because of "unusual driving patterns". There is no way on this earth I would believe that, I have owned 6 cars with active OnStar subscription and tracked or did extreme off-roading with all of them, and not once was I ever contacted because of "unusual driving patterns", unless you can show me actual founded proof, that statement is nothing more than conjecture and conspiracy mongering....
#48
Lexus Champion
It was reported by Car and Driver. Not some conspiracy theory, and NO, they did NOT crash the car. You are missing the whole point anyway. YES OnStar is monitoring your car as soon as some predetermined parameter is violated and the car reaches out to OnStar under the supposition the driver is in trouble.
I cannot find anything relating to the article you are talking about, I find multiple car and driver articles that clearly indicate the driver crashed, but nothing that says that OnStar contacted a driver because of "unusual driving patterns"
please link the article you are speaking of.
#49
Lead Lap
Well, all I know is if Lexus was monitoring my driving habits the police would have already been to my door. I would think pegging the speed limiter would throw up a flag.
#50
I was sorely disappointed with this "remote start". It's not good to let cars idle and "warm up" the best is to start them, wait 5 seconds then put it in drive and drive slowly. Ensuring oil gets through the entire range of the engine. otherwise not enough pressure in the system and you actually score your engine. Under 20 degress to 0, a 30 second warm up of idle is good, and anything under zero should be idled for about 70 to 90 seconds. Idling is never good for your car.
#51
Lead Lap
One of the biggest reasons that idling was considered bad for the engine was because of the excess fuel injected into the engine which did not fully combust. That allowed it to leak into the oil and dilute it, as well as to coat the cylinder walls and foul the plugs. Those were the carburetor days and the carburetor was hardly a precision delivery device.
With modern fuel injection the ECU can very accurately deliver the right amount of fuel while idling based on engine temperature. So it can provide just the right amount of fuel to allow it to fully combust. If this was going to be an issue for anyone in less than 200k miles do you really think Lexus would have it on their cars (remote start)? They don't want to tarnish their reputation for having bulletproof engines. I'm sure that's also a big reason why they don't sell their cars with a unlocked ECU.
With modern fuel injection the ECU can very accurately deliver the right amount of fuel while idling based on engine temperature. So it can provide just the right amount of fuel to allow it to fully combust. If this was going to be an issue for anyone in less than 200k miles do you really think Lexus would have it on their cars (remote start)? They don't want to tarnish their reputation for having bulletproof engines. I'm sure that's also a big reason why they don't sell their cars with a unlocked ECU.
#52
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
I was sorely disappointed with this "remote start". It's not good to let cars idle and "warm up" the best is to start them, wait 5 seconds then put it in drive and drive slowly. Ensuring oil gets through the entire range of the engine. otherwise not enough pressure in the system and you actually score your engine. Under 20 degress to 0, a 30 second warm up of idle is good, and anything under zero should be idled for about 70 to 90 seconds. Idling is never good for your car.
One of the biggest reasons that idling was considered bad for the engine was because of the excess fuel injected into the engine which did not fully combust. That allowed it to leak into the oil and dilute it, as well as to coat the cylinder walls and foul the plugs. Those were the carburetor days and the carburetor was hardly a precision delivery device.
With modern fuel injection the ECU can very accurately deliver the right amount of fuel while idling based on engine temperature. So it can provide just the right amount of fuel to allow it to fully combust. If this was going to be an issue for anyone in less than 200k miles do you really think Lexus would have it on their cars (remote start)? They don't want to tarnish their reputation for having bulletproof engines. I'm sure that's also a big reason why they don't sell their cars with a unlocked ECU.
With modern fuel injection the ECU can very accurately deliver the right amount of fuel while idling based on engine temperature. So it can provide just the right amount of fuel to allow it to fully combust. If this was going to be an issue for anyone in less than 200k miles do you really think Lexus would have it on their cars (remote start)? They don't want to tarnish their reputation for having bulletproof engines. I'm sure that's also a big reason why they don't sell their cars with a unlocked ECU.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 04-18-17 at 05:48 PM.
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nttkr (04-26-17)
#53
Lead Lap
Maybe I'm not correct about the precision fuel delivery. But it seems to be a fair assumption.
My uncle has been in automotive repair since the late 1950's, here's his take on it:
The main problem with extended idling was the wasted fuel, fouled spark plugs, and carbon coated combustion chambers from the carburetor delivered fuel system and lesser ignitions systems of the era.
But there was no hard parts damage, no greater wear resulting ... from idling. They were doing valve jobs on cars of that era, late 40's-early 50's Fords, Buicks, Cadillacs, Packards, and Chevy's at about the same mileage on all of them. He also did ring & valve jobs on many cars in the course of their normal service lives, and he didn't see a difference in the service life of the components between cars that were idled a lot compared to cars that were driven a lot; the biggest difference was the cars that were driven short distances, never reaching running temp for long enough to get rid of the moisture and volatiles that might have accumulated in the oil.
I'll take his word over anyone on the internet. He's dismantled engines in more cars than any of us will ever drive.
Edit: If you do a search on the internet you can find posts from people who live in Alaska that let their cars idle for 10+ minutes every day to warm them up in -40 degree temperatures. Their cars still last them in excess of 200k miles, and they aren't even a Lexus.
I've never worried about idling my engines and I've never had an engine fail for any reason other than once when I was young I let an engine run out of oil due to a bad leak and it killed the engine. But it had nothing to do with idling. I doubt that more than 1% of all current RC F owners will own their cars past 200k miles. So why should the other 99% of them worry about something that "could" happen to an engine at 500k miles? I'm sure there will be a lot of other things to worry about long before that anyway. Assuming that idling actually causes any real damage.
My uncle has been in automotive repair since the late 1950's, here's his take on it:
The main problem with extended idling was the wasted fuel, fouled spark plugs, and carbon coated combustion chambers from the carburetor delivered fuel system and lesser ignitions systems of the era.
But there was no hard parts damage, no greater wear resulting ... from idling. They were doing valve jobs on cars of that era, late 40's-early 50's Fords, Buicks, Cadillacs, Packards, and Chevy's at about the same mileage on all of them. He also did ring & valve jobs on many cars in the course of their normal service lives, and he didn't see a difference in the service life of the components between cars that were idled a lot compared to cars that were driven a lot; the biggest difference was the cars that were driven short distances, never reaching running temp for long enough to get rid of the moisture and volatiles that might have accumulated in the oil.
I'll take his word over anyone on the internet. He's dismantled engines in more cars than any of us will ever drive.
Edit: If you do a search on the internet you can find posts from people who live in Alaska that let their cars idle for 10+ minutes every day to warm them up in -40 degree temperatures. Their cars still last them in excess of 200k miles, and they aren't even a Lexus.
I've never worried about idling my engines and I've never had an engine fail for any reason other than once when I was young I let an engine run out of oil due to a bad leak and it killed the engine. But it had nothing to do with idling. I doubt that more than 1% of all current RC F owners will own their cars past 200k miles. So why should the other 99% of them worry about something that "could" happen to an engine at 500k miles? I'm sure there will be a lot of other things to worry about long before that anyway. Assuming that idling actually causes any real damage.
Last edited by Davew77; 04-18-17 at 06:16 PM.
#54
Lexus Champion
Maybe I'm not correct about the precision fuel delivery. But it seems to be a fair assumption.
My uncle has been in automotive repair since the late 1950's, here's his take on it:
The main problem with extended idling was the wasted fuel, fouled spark plugs, and carbon coated combustion chambers from the carburetor delivered fuel system and lesser ignitions systems of the era.
But there was no hard parts damage, no greater wear resulting ... from idling. They were doing valve jobs on cars of that era, late 40's-early 50's Fords, Buicks, Cadillacs, Packards, and Chevy's at about the same mileage on all of them. He also did ring & valve jobs on many cars in the course of their normal service lives, and he didn't see a difference in the service life of the components between cars that were idled a lot compared to cars that were driven a lot; the biggest difference was the cars that were driven short distances, never reaching running temp for long enough to get rid of the moisture and volatiles that might have accumulated in the oil.
I'll take his word over anyone on the internet. He's dismantled engines in more cars than any of us will ever drive.
Edit: If you do a search on the internet you can find posts from people who live in Alaska that let their cars idle for 10+ minutes every day to warm them up in -40 degree temperatures. Their cars still last them in excess of 200k miles, and they aren't even a Lexus.
I've never worried about idling my engines and I've never had an engine fail for any reason other than once when I was young I let an engine run out of oil due to a bad leak and it killed the engine. But it had nothing to do with idling.
My uncle has been in automotive repair since the late 1950's, here's his take on it:
The main problem with extended idling was the wasted fuel, fouled spark plugs, and carbon coated combustion chambers from the carburetor delivered fuel system and lesser ignitions systems of the era.
But there was no hard parts damage, no greater wear resulting ... from idling. They were doing valve jobs on cars of that era, late 40's-early 50's Fords, Buicks, Cadillacs, Packards, and Chevy's at about the same mileage on all of them. He also did ring & valve jobs on many cars in the course of their normal service lives, and he didn't see a difference in the service life of the components between cars that were idled a lot compared to cars that were driven a lot; the biggest difference was the cars that were driven short distances, never reaching running temp for long enough to get rid of the moisture and volatiles that might have accumulated in the oil.
I'll take his word over anyone on the internet. He's dismantled engines in more cars than any of us will ever drive.
Edit: If you do a search on the internet you can find posts from people who live in Alaska that let their cars idle for 10+ minutes every day to warm them up in -40 degree temperatures. Their cars still last them in excess of 200k miles, and they aren't even a Lexus.
I've never worried about idling my engines and I've never had an engine fail for any reason other than once when I was young I let an engine run out of oil due to a bad leak and it killed the engine. But it had nothing to do with idling.
it is also illegal in most states depending on the type of vehicle, for example in CA it is illegal for Commercial Vehicles and Buses over a GWR of 10,000 pounds and ALL diesel vehicles.
https://www.epa.gov/sites/production...egulations.pdf
#55
Lead Lap
everyone has a different take on it, but personally where I live in SoCal, idling is pointless it's never cold enough outside to require a standing idle warm up, if we had freezing temps I could see it to a point.
it is also illegal in most states depending on the type of vehicle, for example in CA it is illegal for Commercial Vehicles and Buses over a GWR of 10,000 pounds and ALL diesel vehicles.
https://www.epa.gov/sites/production...egulations.pdf
it is also illegal in most states depending on the type of vehicle, for example in CA it is illegal for Commercial Vehicles and Buses over a GWR of 10,000 pounds and ALL diesel vehicles.
https://www.epa.gov/sites/production...egulations.pdf
My main point is, if idling has been proven to cause excess engine wear, then where is the proof? So-and-so said this or that is how old wives tales are created. To idle or not to idle... do as you wish. Maybe we should start a new thread on this?
#56
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
That's another thing... I see trucks on the side of the road all of the time with their engines running. Some of those trucks are in service for a million+ miles.
My main point is, if idling has been proven to cause excess engine wear, then where is the proof? So-and-so said this or that is how old wives tales are created. To idle or not to idle... do as you wish. Maybe we should start a new thread on this?
My main point is, if idling has been proven to cause excess engine wear, then where is the proof? So-and-so said this or that is how old wives tales are created. To idle or not to idle... do as you wish. Maybe we should start a new thread on this?
https://walmart.mobiloil.com/en/webs...r-oil-warranty
http://www.midlanticmachinery.com/av...essive-idling/
http://idlesmart.com/legacy/faq.html
Simple Google search. Idling for extended periods is bad.
#57
Dave, your a very reasonable guy and I don't discount your grandfather's experience. But this is the fact of the matter, idling is bad not because of fuel dilution, everyone here thinks it is about the fuel dilution and it's true it's not good but that's not why I say that. The reason it's bad to idle is the RC-F will sit at 700 RPMs after a 15 seconds or so (+ or - some seconds). At 700 rpms, your not getting enough pressure in the crank case to circulate the entire oil through out the engine. Any trucker that you know will you usually tell you if you're idling at a truck stop, you gotta rev up the engine every once in a while, and they can't explain why they do it other than that's what they've always done. The reason they rev them up is so they can get oil back into the top of the head and recirculate it. you need to sit at 1500RPMS on the 2UR for oil pressure to be high enough to circulate to the top. Also Idling contributes to excessive soot in your engine. will it run to 200,000miles? probably! but the question is at 200,000 miles is it going to have 420 horsepower or 350? Often times I find people arguing over what things related to oil will do to their engines long term. Granted I like things that last, but I'm more worried about power than I am over a few extra miles. Now if you idle because it's a luxury, at least put some friction modifier in the oil and switch to an oil that is Group 5 or group 5 based, that way you'll minize the damage from idling. and always use Shell Nitro 93.
#58
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
...My uncle has been in automotive repair since the late 1950's, here's his take on it:
The main problem with extended idling was the wasted fuel, fouled spark plugs, and carbon coated combustion chambers from the carburetor delivered fuel system and lesser ignitions systems of the era.
But there was no hard parts damage, no greater wear resulting ... from idling. They were doing valve jobs on cars of that era, late 40's-early 50's Fords, Buicks, Cadillacs, Packards, and Chevy's at about the same mileage on all of them. He also did ring & valve jobs on many cars in the course of their normal service lives, and he didn't see a difference in the service life of the components between cars that were idled a lot compared to cars that were driven a lot; the biggest difference was the cars that were driven short distances, never reaching running temp for long enough to get rid of the moisture and volatiles that might have accumulated in the oil.
I'll take his word over anyone on the internet. He's dismantled engines in more cars than any of us will ever drive...
The main problem with extended idling was the wasted fuel, fouled spark plugs, and carbon coated combustion chambers from the carburetor delivered fuel system and lesser ignitions systems of the era.
But there was no hard parts damage, no greater wear resulting ... from idling. They were doing valve jobs on cars of that era, late 40's-early 50's Fords, Buicks, Cadillacs, Packards, and Chevy's at about the same mileage on all of them. He also did ring & valve jobs on many cars in the course of their normal service lives, and he didn't see a difference in the service life of the components between cars that were idled a lot compared to cars that were driven a lot; the biggest difference was the cars that were driven short distances, never reaching running temp for long enough to get rid of the moisture and volatiles that might have accumulated in the oil.
I'll take his word over anyone on the internet. He's dismantled engines in more cars than any of us will ever drive...
#59
Lead Lap
Dave, your a very reasonable guy and I don't discount your grandfather's experience. But this is the fact of the matter, idling is bad not because of fuel dilution, everyone here thinks it is about the fuel dilution and it's true it's not good but that's not why I say that. The reason it's bad to idle is the RC-F will sit at 700 RPMs after a 15 seconds or so (+ or - some seconds). At 700 rpms, your not getting enough pressure in the crank case to circulate the entire oil through out the engine. Any trucker that you know will you usually tell you if you're idling at a truck stop, you gotta rev up the engine every once in a while, and they can't explain why they do it other than that's what they've always done. The reason they rev them up is so they can get oil back into the top of the head and recirculate it. you need to sit at 1500RPMS on the 2UR for oil pressure to be high enough to circulate to the top. Also Idling contributes to excessive soot in your engine. will it run to 200,000miles? probably! but the question is at 200,000 miles is it going to have 420 horsepower or 350? Often times I find people arguing over what things related to oil will do to their engines long term. Granted I like things that last, but I'm more worried about power than I am over a few extra miles. Now if you idle because it's a luxury, at least put some friction modifier in the oil and switch to an oil that is Group 5 or group 5 based, that way you'll minize the damage from idling. and always use Shell Nitro 93.
But is that because of excess carbon build up, excess engine wear, or is it simply because the engine actually has more mileage on it due to idling than the odometer is reporting? Think about it. Engines that are excessively idled (more than 10 minutes per day for warm up and a car that spends like 50% of it's running time at idle) are going to actually have much more mileage on them than the rest of the car. So at say 200k miles the engine may actually have the equivalent of 400k miles. Of course it's going to have issues sooner than expected based on the odometer reading in this case. Police cars are a great example. They spend a very large percentage of their time at idle. I'd guess it could be anywhere from 50% to 80% of their life is spent at idle. So the engine mileage is going to be much higher than the odometer states.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...IDLETIMESS.pdf
https://walmart.mobiloil.com/en/webs...r-oil-warranty
http://www.midlanticmachinery.com/av...essive-idling/
http://idlesmart.com/legacy/faq.html
Simple Google search. Idling for extended periods is bad.
https://walmart.mobiloil.com/en/webs...r-oil-warranty
http://www.midlanticmachinery.com/av...essive-idling/
http://idlesmart.com/legacy/faq.html
Simple Google search. Idling for extended periods is bad.
You just described my 78 year old dad. I rebuilt my first engine under his tutelage when I was 12. That was a few days short of 45 years ago. He still rebuilds engines for street and competition, and is the guy who does all his own machine work. He's spent a lot of time at dirt tracks racing circle track cars in Eastern Iowa. He's also the one who actively convinced me working on cars isn't a great living.
#60
The idling reduces the amount of lubrication overall, resulting in additional FD. that FD in return breaks down the oil which in turn eats bearings. Your correct, a few of my police and fire departments blow engines from idling. It's why Ford is finally introducing their taurus and explorer in hybrid formats. Idling is just not good, and your health takes a hit from the fumes getting into the cabin. It's often why in industial applications they don't use miles but rather hours.