Jumping tires
 

On rapid acceleration from standing start-- RC- F does not have a smooth transition. Tires jump and shake for half a second before car has even acceleration. Even with traction control turned off this happens. WHAT IS THAT ALL ABOUT ????

It's called Wheel Hop, and you need to feather the throttle a bit to eliminate it. Disabling Traction Control will only exacerbate the situation if you don't know what you are doing and you only mash the throttle on take off. A muscle or super car is not like other cars and you need to learn how to handle all that power.

Lou

A) Possible wheel balance problem, how is the ride at 70+ mph? If it is shaking
at speed you have a balance issue. B) Are you romping on it with one wheel
on a slippery surface, ie. wet or (gasp) gravel? One wheel spinning will invoke
the Limited Slip Diff and could contribute to the shake rattle and roll you describe.

It has nothing to do with what he said above. Its called wheel hop!! Your losing traction.

ding ding ding Flowrider for the win!

I had a Corvette previously. When you jumped on the throttle-- the car took off lburning rubber etc.
I can't do that with RC-F. Why not ????

Get better tires and a little wider

I think it's part of the engineering to prevent you from wrecking your drive train. I saw a review somewhere and they mentioned you can't do a straight line burn out to ensure longevity. It could also be wheel hop:D

So the rcf can't do a burnout? Anyone tried on their about to be replaced rears?:D

:p. No problem...move the video to 3:00. This is one of a ton of videos with the car burning up the tires.

:p. No problem...move the video to 3:00. Just shut off the traction control.

This is one of a ton of videos with the car burning up the tires. The reason the RC F is quicker off the line than the M4 is it's ability to transfer the power to the asphalt. There is zero loss of control and little loss of traction if any from torque-induced oversteer with the RC F--unlike the M4. The TVD provides even more variable control for torque delivery, and you can dial in more or less oversteer through the pedal.

RC-F Can do burnouts.



But yes, what you're experiencing is wheel hop.

I agree, wheel hop.


here is some info


http://www.mc2racing.com/tech/20061012a/

Just replaced my rears. I literally had no tractions and could barely merge into traffic do to wheel slip before I replaced the rears. I was losing even traction in 3rd gear shift when accelerating hard.

Wheel shudder or hop under normal acceleration should not occur. Seems like OP would realize if he was smoking the rears and that was the origin of the shutter.

What you are experiencing, as said above, is wheel hop. Eseentially, you're putting down more power than the tire can handle, the tires wish to chatter, and your trailing arms aren't strong enough to PUSH the tires onto the ground.

If you allow that chatter to continue (prolonged or severe wheel hop), you will eventually blow the gears out of your rear end.

How do you fix wheel hop?

1. Easiest solution (though I'm not sure what options are available right now for the RC-F), but get better trailing arms. The Camaro from a first gear clutch drop would chatter and skip and dance all around. If you look at your stock trailing arms, you'll probably find that they are thin and almost look like they were stamped. If you go to a more reinforced trailing arm, you'll find that the chatter won't happen as much. Will you still spin? Sure, but you'll only feel the tires spinning, not the suspension and rear gears getting a workout. I went with UMI trailing arms on my Camaro and haven't had a hop since.

2. Adjust throttle delivery. I personally have never had a high hp automatic before, so I can't speak for this. For a stick, it just a matter of knowing the precise feel when you let the clutch out.

3. MPSS are a nice daily driving tire, they have a long life and a good overall feel. However, don't expect them to be a great performance tire for "street abuse". If you want to bite, and you're willing to eat the cash, spend the money on a radial. Or go with a Nitto Invo, or something of that sort. I run Invos on my car 295/30/20 out back, and above 50F I can hook without a problem. Below that....the car will show you how quickly a 45 degree turn happens.

I would recommend starting with suspension mods, then go to everything else.