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^^^ Beautiful set up and vehicle but ouch on their washing techniques (which is always amplified on a black car)... Looks like some paint correction is in order.
I’ve received some PMs asking me for general RCF wheel/tire fitment advice so I thought I’d just post it up on the forum in case it helps a few others who like things done right.
While I’m no fitment expert, I do know the look I want and have enjoyed playing the OEM+ modding game for a long time so I’ll share my personal thoughts on what I view as “doing it right” when it comes to aftermarket wheel/tire choices. There’s nothing better to me than a car lowered with a flush fitting set of aftermarket shoes that happens to give away very little in drivability concessions. You, too, can have your cake and eat it, too!
Cliff notes version, if I were an RCF consultant in the RCF aftermarket business, here’s the suspension and wheel package I would sell as a buy once, enjoy for tens of thousands of miles deal:
*Multi-piece wheels or build-to-spec [Remarks: I like Forgeline or any other brand that pro racing teams use; ARP fasteners; fully forged; tested for near-perfect run-out. 9 out of 10 aftermarket wheel setups I see here are whack, no offense. I think the bad decisions are primarily driven by the fact that the RCF is such a low volume vehicle that vendors simply do not cater to it because it's a poor business decision. You go over to 991 Porsche land or the F8X platform and correctly fitting options are plentiful relative to the RCF or any Lexus F vehicle. While you enjoy the rarity, we fans also suffer for it.]
*20x9 5x4.5 60.1CB, ET33 [Forgeline or shops like HRE can build you hub-centric wheels that also accommodate the beautiful BBS made Lexus OEM cap, and reuse stock lugs if you so choose]
*20x10.5 5x4.5 60.1CB ET40 [I see people run 11” or wider, but either they can’t fit proper 295s and/or they’re rubbing]
*255/30-20, 295/30-20 Michelin PS4S [Mercedes OEM – these are slightly narrower than non-Merc versions]
*Ohlins adjustable coilover kit by FIGS Engineering [Tested and proven on the RCF]
*Lowering essentials kit by FIGS Engineering [Tested and proven on the RCF to get you camber adjustability]
*Poly bushings sold by FIGS Engineering
I’d then have a trusted shop install all the above, align it and you’ll drive off enjoying an RCF that not only looks incredible, but also drives as good or better than stock with ZERO rubbing (so long as you don’t drop it ghetto low and go off of sweet Ford Raptor sized jumps at hwy speeds).
Enjoy and PM me with any further questions. Thanks!
I’ve received some PMs asking me for general RCF wheel/tire fitment advice so I thought I’d just post it up on the forum in case it helps a few others who like things done right.
While I’m no fitment expert, I do know the look I want and have enjoyed playing the OEM+ modding game for a long time so I’ll share my personal thoughts on what I view as “doing it right” when it comes to aftermarket wheel/tire choices. There’s nothing better to me than a car lowered with a flush fitting set of aftermarket shoes that happens to give away very little in drivability concessions. You, too, can have your cake and eat it, too!
Cliff notes version, if I were an RCF consultant in the RCF aftermarket business, here’s the suspension and wheel package I would sell as a buy once, enjoy for tens of thousands of miles deal:
*Multi-piece wheels or build-to-spec [Remarks: I like Forgeline or any other brand that pro racing teams use; ARP fasteners; fully forged; tested for near-perfect run-out. 9 out of 10 aftermarket wheel setups I see here are whack, no offense. Either you don’t know what you’re doing or someone who also doesn’t know wtf they’re doing in life has hoodwinked you.]
*20x9 5x4.5 60.1CB, ET33 [Forgeline or shops like HRE can build you hub-centric wheels that also accommodate the beautiful BBS made Lexus OEM cap, and reuse stock lugs if you so choose]
*20x10.5 5x4.5 60.1CB ET40 [I see people run 11” or wider, but either they can’t fit proper 295s and/or they’re rubbing]
*255/30-20, 295/30-20 Michelin PS4S [Mercedes OEM – these are slightly narrower than non-Merc versions]
*Ohlins adjustable coilover kit by FIGS Engineering [Tested and proven on the RCF]
*Lowering essentials kit by FIGS Engineering [Tested and proven on the RCF to get you camber adjustability]
*Poly bushings sold by FIGS Engineering
I’d then have a trusted shop install all the above, align it and you’ll drive off enjoying an RCF that not only looks incredible, but also drives as good or better than stock with ZERO rubbing (so long as you don’t drop it ghetto low and go off of sweet Ford Raptor sized jumps at hwy speeds).
Enjoy and PM me with any further questions. Thanks!
What up, OG ba2sy my Rowen CF ambassador?! I'm wherever you guys want me to be.
Pls allow me to also add that why 295s are important is because when you see a CYKBC packaged RCF rolling on the fwy from the rear, it'll look super wide due to the additional girth with tires pushed out to the fenders at all corners. There's a massive aesthetic diff between 295s and 285s/275s. The former look insanely sweet, filled out, ready to light it up. The latter looks no more aggressive than stock which is super saddies.
The best analogy is seeing a chick in flip flops v. 6" heels. I know which I strongly prefer.
CYKBC - really appreciate the effort and time put in to your post. For someone like me who is currently agonising over wheel choices this is very helpful.
Do you have some more shots from behind or in front of the car that show how the offset sits in relation to the cars stance?
09-15-18, 06:36 PM
