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I have recently installed the takeda dry intake and recorded 0-60 times in my usual locations. Before the intake I would be getting about 5.5 sec to 60 (stock should be 5.8)presumably because of losing some weight from a muffler delete. After installing the intake and letting it drive 100 miles or so, I recorded a times of about 6.2 seconds. Just wondering if this is normal for all those who got the intake. I am now considering switching back as the car sounds great with the muffler delete already, and the intake is not making much of a difference sound wise and actually hurting my performance.
I have recently installed the takeda dry intake and recorded 0-60 times in my usual locations. Before the intake I would be getting about 5.5 sec to 60 (stock should be 5.8)presumably because of losing some weight from a muffler delete. After installing the intake and letting it drive 100 miles or so, I recorded a times of about 6.2 seconds. Just wondering if this is normal for all those who got the intake. I am now considering switching back as the car sounds great with the muffler delete already, and the intake is not making much of a difference sound wise and actually hurting my performance.
There are so many variables in 0-60 runs, especially self tested ones. ambient air temps, humidity, how much fuel is in the take, passenger weight, tire pressure, air density, as well as the ECU's learning "file".
The ecu adjusts to your driving style and adjusts timing and whatnot. When you switched the intakes the engine got a lot more air than it was expecting. My suggestion is to unplug your negative battery terminal for 30-45 minutes. This allows the ECU to forget what it's learned and learn from scratch. I think this will benefit you.
Try collecting some datalogs with your previous setup and your new setup. You can check to see if the Takeda Intake has a lower MAF g/s reading than the OEM setup. Just make sure that you document your data while the test conditions are fairly similar (ambient temperatures, humidity, Intake Air Temperature (IAT), etc.). Here's an example of how I was comparing different intake pipes (and currently comparing intake boxes):
Try collecting some datalogs with your previous setup and your new setup. You can check to see if the Takeda Intake has a lower MAF g/s reading than the OEM setup. Just make sure that you document your data while the test conditions are fairly similar (ambient temperatures, humidity, Intake Air Temperature (IAT), etc.). Here's an example of how I was comparing different intake pipes (and currently comparing intake boxes):
Takeda Intake Slower 0-60
