When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Im looking for more insight of how to build a stronger block with internals that can hold about 600whp
any advise would help things like type of piston and rods , and bearings, i like to rev the hell out my car , i know that a valve train thing that would also help but for now im going to just focus on the building the block while i do other things to the car like the body and everything else trying to overhaul the whole car . it'll take a while but i want to say its built not bought
well ... I was test out my motor that was recently installed on the car about a week ago.i got a habit of gassing cars to see if anything goes wrong ...well it did .. it fuggin blew guts all over the hwy . i was running about 90-95 when i heard a crunching pop and smoke come from the car . had it towed home and took some pics. felt around and discovered a rod somehow twisted and bent and knocked a whole hole in the block ...
Well that block is destroyed and unrebuildable, so why not get a GTE engine that will handle 900+ stock? You're also forgetting that the transmission wont hold up to anywhere near 600whp. Maybe 350ish. If you're set on a GE block, there are many forged internal available which will cost you as much as a GTE engine anyway. Whichever way you go is up to you. If you can locate a GTE block, use your GE head and GE head-gasket, it should make for a strong N/A motor. But to make anywhere close to 600whp you'll need a turbo and to the lower compression, thus the GTE head gasket too. So it makes sense to just use a GTE engine altogether.
Plenty of guides on building high power 2JZs on this forum already, and other message boards like My IS and SupraForums.
Probably one of the most well-documented late model engines, there are basically no mysteries when it comes to building any sort of powerful 2JZ-based motor.
If you're going to attempt to build the engine yourself, you should procure yourself a factory service manual.
Side note: if you get a GTE shortblock, don't put a GE head on it and run it NA... you won't have a strong NA 2JZ, you'll have one gimped by low compression and a restrictive head.
Plenty of guides on building high power 2JZs on this forum already, and other message boards like My IS and SupraForums.
Probably one of the most well-documented late model engines, there are basically no mysteries when it comes to building any sort of powerful 2JZ-based motor.
If you're going to attempt to build the engine yourself, you should procure yourself a factory service manual.
Side note: if you get a GTE shortblock, don't put a GE head on it and run it NA... you won't have a strong NA 2JZ, you'll have one gimped by low compression and a restrictive head.
Not to argue, but to my understanding the compression difference in the two engines comes from the headgasket. The GTE uses a very thick gasket and the GE uses just a mls thin gasket. Many forums talk about the GE flowing better than the GTE head and have been used in GTE builds. I don't think having all things the same, running a GTE block and putting his head on it would be a problem. This is just what I've researched.
GTE pistons have a dished top that contributes to the lower compression ratio. Using GE pistons in a turbo application would work, it just has higher static compression, but using GTE pistons for an NA build would be detrimental in terms of compression.
I could certainly be incorrect about the head though.
Sorry for the late reply been busy, I’ve sourced a GTE block , only for the squirters, I want to build it myself cause I really don’t trust buying a used one cause the one above was claimed to have 120k and within a week of driving after install this is what I get plus I traveled to another state to even buy the thing , I’ve been searching a lot on the forum before I was a member and didn’t really understand what was going on. But now that I got the help of you guys here on the forum I figure it’ll be easier and quicker with the help , He’ll even after I installed the motor I brought another gs for spare parts on the interior
the gte block is in sc but it’s a guy here with a motor for 700 says it has a spun bearing , I’ll probably go with that on just cause of the entirety of the motor vs just a block I think that will be a good starting point for me , took a while to get my tools up and things I’m gonna need but I’m here with it all now , this will be my first motor build ever never been this deep. So I trust you guy will support and help along the way
Well that block is destroyed and unrebuildable, so why not get a GTE engine that will handle 900+ stock? You're also forgetting that the transmission wont hold up to anywhere near 600whp. Maybe 350ish. If you're set on a GE block, there are many forged internal available which will cost you as much as a GTE engine anyway. Whichever way you go is up to you. If you can locate a GTE block, use your GE head and GE head-gasket, it should make for a strong N/A motor. But to make anywhere close to 600whp you'll need a turbo and to the lower compression, thus the GTE head gasket too. So it makes sense to just use a GTE engine altogether.
Didnt think about the trans I have access to a cd009 but the adaptation plate is kinda expensive for me. I don’t want 900hp that’s a bit to spicy for me right now lol , I’m sure I’d bury myself with tickets lol
any cheaper way out ?
Well, now's the time to really think about what you want out of this car. Do you want a fun sporty daily? Do you want to run 11s? 10s? Do you want a dyno queen?
Realistically, 400ish to the wheels is fine for a 3700lb daily driver, and is "easily" attainable with a mild build, and the stock 5-spd auto will probably survive without fussing.
Honestly if you're starting with a complete motor that spun a bearing, the first step should be to tear it down and see what the damage is, and put a plan in place for a blueprinted overhaul.
Hey guys big update on my build. Trying to keep everything far as info on this one thread so sorry cause i know its been a very long time, I recently just got a used block and took it to the machine shop to get all the work done to make sure it is a solid base for my build. Had it checked throughly and checked out fine. Also droped off the non vvti rods and pistons to get cleaned up. I didnt take any shortcuts to get this done.I got the block decked-.005, Honed. and Arp main studs. The crank has been cleaned up and polished. Now i need you guys help and brain power to help me a bit more. Not sure on how to choose my main bearings based off the rebuild guide which says to match numbers on the crank and block to get 1 of 5 possible bearing sets, i need help with this, im confused here. I also have a set of Non vvti rods and pistons im going to use in this bottom end so help with rings would be great! i will add pics of all the hardware and specs so you guys can know what im working with.
1. How to choose main bearing set 1-5 with pics of crank and block ? using the factory rebuild instructions..
2. Whats the best set of PR to get for this build ?
3. Do i need to balance the rods and pistons seperate? ( heard that making rods and pistons weigh the same helps with rotation)
4. what would be my best bet for a head gasket ? GTE gasket or regular GE gasket?
5. Seals part #'s?
if i missed anything please let me know im here to learn as much as i can from you guys and have all the information pretaining to my build
I would think if you didn't have any boar work done or machining on anything but the deck, you should be able to just order stock size bearings and rings.. Do you have your old bearings? It says in those instructions "if using standard bearings, replace with the same number". If you were to buy an aftermarket set of main bearings, I don't think any of that would be something to be worried about. They'd just be: standard, .010 over, .020 over, or whatever spec you want.
As far as balancing your pistons and rods, I think that's a bit overkill. You are using an OEM Toyota set and they will be close to eachother. Maybe buy a set of Manley rods if you want an affordable step up.
Yeah okay i may just be putting in way too much thought and making it difficult for myself, i have the old set and what confused me was a few had the #3 on it and 1 bearing had the #4 on it and the rest was #2, if im going to buy a set i would think all is one size. would i have to buy them individualy ?
07-13-19, 11:21 AM
Rebuild help ! gs3 took the biggest S&*$ EVER!!
