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Note my 3 extra wires GS300 wheel with bag removed. I intend on using the existing wires.
So im putzing with my car this weekend and it dawns on me, "It would be really easy to put cruise control in my car." Ha! Depends on your definition of the word i suppose.
Knowing that Toyota does the multiplex deal with cruise, i go tear apart the steering wheel in the 97 Lexus parts car i have. 97 es300 ALSO has multiplex: 3 wire cruise switch. Ok. I'll go nab the one from my 92 Celica, I'm sure that's old enough.
Nope
I got nothin! Yet I persevere.
I tore apart the 97 Lexus stick which physically looks the same to what's in my GS. Sure enough 3 positions each with a different resistor. What i did next was clip each resistor off the tiny circuit board, de-solder the correct pin on each, then soldered a wire on each position for set, resume, and cancel. Each position will share the hot wire and SHOULD work no problem. My only concern is if the circuits and contacts will take whatever current load it will draw.
At this point i only have this switch made and nothing else done. The Gm computer will be looking for a constant 12v source to turn the program on. As you all will know, the ON switch on Toyota stalks are momentary-on necessitating a latching function. It looks like latching relays/boards on ebay are cheap. Beyond that, I MIGHT just be a few wires away from no pedal driving!
can i assume your going to install a clutch cancel switch so if a panic stop comes up and you depress the clutch the engine doesn't rev its *** off?
Well of course! I do have the Fiance drive this as well! She actually ENJOYS driving this creation of mine as the other previous swaps are less. ...comfy.
Finally got around to installing the IS300 wheels. Just happened to have a set of 215/45/17 snow tires on my old celica that have great tread but are a little dry rotted. The IS wheels had 2 great snow tires already so i just had to install 2.
Ive done 50's but never 45 series.(By hand) And I'm here to tell you it's possible. In a warm shop and tires lubed up correctly you CAN change 45s by hand. Gotta be REALLY nice to them but it's not too difficult.
I've read alot about how people say the GS-whatever sucks the big one for snow driving. This has not been the case for me. And I've been driving with the 215/65/16 all seasons which have great tread. This thing is like a tank! I've not had any issues and now with the snow rubber I'm even more confident.
But not over confident! That's what gets you in trouble in snow!
Here's the plug for the clock wire deal behind the steering wheel. 6 wires total.
Starting from the left: Horn 12v Blue wire, red wire is my cruise circuit on, white/black striped wire will be my common hot wire, green wire(i swap with white cruise stick wire later) cruise OFF input, and the two paired wires on the right are white accelerate/resume, black set/coast.
Finding 4 of these wires was cake, they're under the hood. The 5th wire however is part of an option this car never received: Stereo controls on the steering wheel. So that particular wire DOES NOT GO UNDER THE HOOD! I had to really search for this one and wouldn't you know it the wire changes color from green(in the wheel) to black/orange striped (after the clock spring deal) and goes who knows where? But i did find them all. The GM side should be lots easier.
So get this: I got these shift up shift down buttons just doing nothing right? Well I'm using the wiring for them anyway so as you may have guessed, shift down is set/coast and shift up will be accelerate/resume!
Why not?!
The cruise on and off will not be the typical Toyota or gm setup. By this i mean push the button for cruise program on, the press the same button for program off again. Mine will only be an "on button" and then to turn the program off, I'll pull the stick back towards the driver. So this effectively eliminates one way of canceling (and leaving the program on). If you pull the stick back you'll just need to turn it back on and so fourth.
Using this diagram i made my latch/unlatch circuit. This relay/fuse panel came from a fuse box in a grand am or some kind of gm vehicle. Just swapped a few wires around and boom easy relay panel!
Well i did get cruise to work. The shift up/down buttons for accel/decel are a nice feature. The only way i could get cruise to operate was to change my engine tune to automatic. Sending 12v to the TCC wire allows cruise to work with the auto tune, but not the manual tune. I'm sure i just got the wrong combination of 12v inputs.
I eventually gave up and just left my car in the auto tune which is annoying because after every shift the engine will rev up inexplicably. It sometimes holds on to 3k rpm! But I'll get er figured out.
Oh and BBGS, i didn't actually get the clutch cutoff wired yet. I tried wiring it in with the brake pedal switch but quickly discovered it lit the brake lights up with clutching. I wonder if a diode could fix that...
Well i did get cruise to work. The shift up/down buttons for accel/decel are a nice feature. The only way i could get cruise to operate was to change my engine tune to automatic. Sending 12v to the TCC wire allows cruise to work with the auto tune, but not the manual tune. I'm sure i just got the wrong combination of 12v inputs.
I eventually gave up and just left my car in the auto tune which is annoying because after every shift the engine will rev up inexplicably. It sometimes holds on to 3k rpm! But I'll get er figured out.
Oh and BBGS, i didn't actually get the clutch cutoff wired yet. I tried wiring it in with the brake pedal switch but quickly discovered it lit the brake lights up with clutching. I wonder if a diode could fix that...
yes a diode would be the simplest fix. get er' done.
Scored this package on Craigslist yesterday. Comp cam, 918 valve springs, and .080" wall pushrods.
Cam is 218/224 on a 115lsa +2* advance. Guy said it had .563/.568 lift, but when i measured it looked more like .525 or so. I think that rating must be for 1.8 rocker arms(stock is 1.7). No big, was a really nice guy and he let it go for 300 bucks. What a steal! I think this is about as big a daily driver cam as i want.
On a side note, my 300 mile journey averaged 24mpg. Not too bad, but still not like the 6 speed ls1 guys making 30mpg....
thats the thing about having a ls style engine. you can just go and buy go fast parts for it and plug in your laptop and tune it. those cam specs are pretty good. the duration and lift will put a smile on your face. post some pics of the install in action and vids afterwards. and word to the wise, you better put some new lifters in it. and did you check or replace the oil pick up tube o ring? very common. very common...............!!!!!!!!!!!##$#@@$%^&&^$##$^&&&((
thats the thing about having a ls style engine. you can just go and buy go fast parts for it and plug in your laptop and tune it. those cam specs are pretty good. the duration and lift will put a smile on your face. post some pics of the install in action and vids afterwards. and word to the wise, you better put some new lifters in it. and did you check or replace the oil pick up tube o ring? very common. very common...............!!!!!!!!!!!##$#@@$%^&&^$##$^&&&((
You got that right except the part where I know how to tune. I haven't got a clue, but i do have an innovate wideband to install.
My pickup tube and oil pan came from a gto and last i remember that Oring was orange. Didn't even put a second thought into it, just bolted it all together. Good thing to check though.
On a side note, i have a line on an 08 GS460 differential assembly for 150 bucks. Does anybody know for sure if these will interchange with older Lexus diffs? I've compared pictures on Google for hours and i think they're the same physically except the axle stub shafts. Ive checked spline count as accurately as i can (google fu) and i think they're the same.
If nobody knows, i guess just wait and see when i buy it. Hope it won't be a $150 paperweight...
This will be a drop from 3.26 to 2.937 or about 200 rpm less than Im spinning now. So 70mph would end up about 2000 rpm on the nose versus 2200.
My drop of 450 rpm seemed to gain me 5 mpg. So based on that same calculation, the extra 200 rpm less should be another 2 mpg. That SHOULD bring my hwy mpg to 26 theoretically.
Got my 08 GS460 differential for 150 bucks. It is NOT simply a bolt in affair. Externally, these two diffs look nearly identical save for the method holding in the main bearings, bolts VS new style snap ring.
Somewhere along the line, some fancy pants overpaid "Engineer" decided to change the spider gear spline design. Still 30 spline, but the shape of the spline teeth are more pointy now, the old stub shafts DO NOT GO ALL THE WAY IN.
So I've partially disassembled both now, the bolt in style bearing caps came apart easy. The giant snap ring is more manly than my snap ring pliers...
Plan is to change the 2.937 ring gear over to the 3.92 diff carrier and install into the gs460 housing.
12-04-16, 05:19 PM
