Latest news on my SC install
06-15-14, 11:37 AM
#1
Latest news on my SC install
Problems. If I would have known how much of a headache this was going to be I wouldn't have ever started this; I blame most of it (if not all) on the AEM FIC8 and the Boomslang harness; it may be mis-wired.
Here's the scoop...as you all know I have a 2000 Lexus GS400 and have just installed a Swift Racing Technologies Stage 3 supercharger kit. Everything is working as it should mechanically. Car has been at my installer/tuner for over a month now.
Parts list other than SC kit
RC 440cc injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
1 step colder NGK Iridium Plugs
AEM wideband kit/gauge
AEM Boost gauge
AEM FIC-8 universal fuel/timing controller
Boomslang harness
With everything installed with FIC disconnected the car starts up and idles fine and indefinitely; will not stall. A little hesitation though and under throttle; runs VERY rich at idle too which is expected because of the larger injectors and fuel pump.
As soon as the FIC is connected. The car starts up fine but surges at idle, when warmed up it surges badly until it stalls out. Found out from JeffTsai that my Cam and/or my Crank sensors could be too weak/old and the high sensitivity on the FIC is picking up this "noise/interference" and screwing up the signal. So, I installed the resistors as instructed by Jeff; 2.2k ohm 1/2 watt resistors connecting the Cam + & - (input only) and the Crank + & - (input only) to reduce the "noise". I did this on the Boomslang harness that I bought and it has a more stabilized idle.
However, now i'm getting a check engine light that reads one engine bank being too lean and the other engine bank being too rich! There are no tuning values in any of the maps in the FIC; everything is zero'd out. It seems to be issues with how the FIC is reading the upstream O2 sensors. It was mentioned to delete one (remove from exhaust and just store away in engine bay) and use the other one in a new central location (where y-pipe meets) to get one reading essentially for both engine banks. Plug the (2) old bungs in my headers with bung nuts. I would also have to do something to the o2 harness wiring to account for this.
My question is why would this happen though? Am I destroying my engine by idling it in these different "testing" environments?
As I mentioned before, I disconnect the FIC 8 in its entirety and run off of stock ECU it shows the same fuel readings in both engine banks (balanced). This is even the same when the FIC is connected with the special AEM supplied bypass harness. However, once the FIC is fully connected everything goes to crap; too much fuel dumping to one side if the engine and too little fuel to the other side.
What should I do here? Am I heading in the right direction or can I use resistors on the o2 wires instead of reverting to using only one?
I think I'm going to buy a new crank sensor as Jeff suggested as this seems to be the culprit (more than the Cam sensor) as to why I need the 2.2k ohm resistors. The sensor is old and I'm hoping that once I replace with new I probably won't need the resistors anymore.
Can all this still be FIC firmware related? If so, which version firmware should I be using for my specific car? I think my installer is currently using Q107. I thought we needed the Z series firmware but he said he spoke to someone from AEM and they said we should be using the Q series firmware.
The above is just a re-cap and what's presently happening. I'm really nervous about messing with my o2 sensors because now I'm messing with the car's parts...up until now it was just messing with the FIC and the boomslang harness.
Again, everything works well mechanically so it's just an issue when the FIC-8 gets connected; not sure what's going on with the unbalanced fuel to the engine.
Can it be something such as the connectors were switched/flipped on the upstream o2 sensors? Would this cause my o2 and lean and rich at same time issue? Do you think he had to disconnect the o2 sensors from the engine when he had to lift it to get to the oil pan for the oil drain line install?
What about the MAF? Can it be installed wrong or wires screwed up? He did have to extend the MAF wires about a foot longer to reach the new location on the IC piping.
Let me know what you all think. Jeff has been awesome with trying to help over the phone; I just want to see if anyone else has any experience with something similar happening.
Here's the scoop...as you all know I have a 2000 Lexus GS400 and have just installed a Swift Racing Technologies Stage 3 supercharger kit. Everything is working as it should mechanically. Car has been at my installer/tuner for over a month now.
Parts list other than SC kit
RC 440cc injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
1 step colder NGK Iridium Plugs
AEM wideband kit/gauge
AEM Boost gauge
AEM FIC-8 universal fuel/timing controller
Boomslang harness
With everything installed with FIC disconnected the car starts up and idles fine and indefinitely; will not stall. A little hesitation though and under throttle; runs VERY rich at idle too which is expected because of the larger injectors and fuel pump.
As soon as the FIC is connected. The car starts up fine but surges at idle, when warmed up it surges badly until it stalls out. Found out from JeffTsai that my Cam and/or my Crank sensors could be too weak/old and the high sensitivity on the FIC is picking up this "noise/interference" and screwing up the signal. So, I installed the resistors as instructed by Jeff; 2.2k ohm 1/2 watt resistors connecting the Cam + & - (input only) and the Crank + & - (input only) to reduce the "noise". I did this on the Boomslang harness that I bought and it has a more stabilized idle.
However, now i'm getting a check engine light that reads one engine bank being too lean and the other engine bank being too rich! There are no tuning values in any of the maps in the FIC; everything is zero'd out. It seems to be issues with how the FIC is reading the upstream O2 sensors. It was mentioned to delete one (remove from exhaust and just store away in engine bay) and use the other one in a new central location (where y-pipe meets) to get one reading essentially for both engine banks. Plug the (2) old bungs in my headers with bung nuts. I would also have to do something to the o2 harness wiring to account for this.
My question is why would this happen though? Am I destroying my engine by idling it in these different "testing" environments?
As I mentioned before, I disconnect the FIC 8 in its entirety and run off of stock ECU it shows the same fuel readings in both engine banks (balanced). This is even the same when the FIC is connected with the special AEM supplied bypass harness. However, once the FIC is fully connected everything goes to crap; too much fuel dumping to one side if the engine and too little fuel to the other side.
What should I do here? Am I heading in the right direction or can I use resistors on the o2 wires instead of reverting to using only one?
I think I'm going to buy a new crank sensor as Jeff suggested as this seems to be the culprit (more than the Cam sensor) as to why I need the 2.2k ohm resistors. The sensor is old and I'm hoping that once I replace with new I probably won't need the resistors anymore.
Can all this still be FIC firmware related? If so, which version firmware should I be using for my specific car? I think my installer is currently using Q107. I thought we needed the Z series firmware but he said he spoke to someone from AEM and they said we should be using the Q series firmware.
The above is just a re-cap and what's presently happening. I'm really nervous about messing with my o2 sensors because now I'm messing with the car's parts...up until now it was just messing with the FIC and the boomslang harness.
Again, everything works well mechanically so it's just an issue when the FIC-8 gets connected; not sure what's going on with the unbalanced fuel to the engine.
Can it be something such as the connectors were switched/flipped on the upstream o2 sensors? Would this cause my o2 and lean and rich at same time issue? Do you think he had to disconnect the o2 sensors from the engine when he had to lift it to get to the oil pan for the oil drain line install?
What about the MAF? Can it be installed wrong or wires screwed up? He did have to extend the MAF wires about a foot longer to reach the new location on the IC piping.
Let me know what you all think. Jeff has been awesome with trying to help over the phone; I just want to see if anyone else has any experience with something similar happening.
06-17-14, 02:23 PM
#2
sounds like the FIC may need some rewiring done. usually with "universal" anythings you'll need to make some adjustments. are they wired to only 1 of the two 02 sensors? maybe thats the reason for going for 1 sensor rather than 2.
also...how much did you spend on that kit? im having a really really hard time justifying the cost from what i see on the site.
also...how much did you spend on that kit? im having a really really hard time justifying the cost from what i see on the site.
06-17-14, 03:06 PM
#3
Yes, there is a signal/noise that is skewing my o2 signals that making everything crazy.
I think we may have solved it! I read in many areas on the internet and speaking with AEM and Boomslang that if I am not going to be purposely adjusting my O2 signals then I should not connect the o2 wires to the FIC at all. There are only (2) wires; bank 1 and bank 2 upstream o2's. This and I need to change my FIC firmware for my specific car to Q110. Hopefully both of these items will do the trick! Working on this in the next few days.
This is an old centrifugal type SC kit put out by SRT over 10 years ago! Lol. It is in mint condition where everything performs as it should mechanically. The last (and only) CL member that had this kit installed a long time ago made 420whp and 356wtq...without having headers or building the engine! (His dyno below) This was attained at 8.5 psi. So far I am at about 60% of what the new SRT twin-screw SC kit costs and will make similar power.
I think we may have solved it! I read in many areas on the internet and speaking with AEM and Boomslang that if I am not going to be purposely adjusting my O2 signals then I should not connect the o2 wires to the FIC at all. There are only (2) wires; bank 1 and bank 2 upstream o2's. This and I need to change my FIC firmware for my specific car to Q110. Hopefully both of these items will do the trick! Working on this in the next few days.
This is an old centrifugal type SC kit put out by SRT over 10 years ago! Lol. It is in mint condition where everything performs as it should mechanically. The last (and only) CL member that had this kit installed a long time ago made 420whp and 356wtq...without having headers or building the engine! (His dyno below) This was attained at 8.5 psi. So far I am at about 60% of what the new SRT twin-screw SC kit costs and will make similar power.
06-18-14, 09:57 AM
#5
Yes, there is a signal/noise that is skewing my o2 signals that making everything crazy.
I think we may have solved it! I read in many areas on the internet and speaking with AEM and Boomslang that if I am not going to be purposely adjusting my O2 signals then I should not connect the o2 wires to the FIC at all. There are only (2) wires; bank 1 and bank 2 upstream o2's. This and I need to change my FIC firmware for my specific car to Q110. Hopefully both of these items will do the trick! Working on this in the next few days.
This is an old centrifugal type SC kit put out by SRT over 10 years ago! Lol. It is in mint condition where everything performs as it should mechanically. The last (and only) CL member that had this kit installed a long time ago made 420whp and 356wtq...without having headers or building the engine! (His dyno below) This was attained at 8.5 psi. So far I am at about 60% of what the new SRT twin-screw SC kit costs and will make similar power.
I think we may have solved it! I read in many areas on the internet and speaking with AEM and Boomslang that if I am not going to be purposely adjusting my O2 signals then I should not connect the o2 wires to the FIC at all. There are only (2) wires; bank 1 and bank 2 upstream o2's. This and I need to change my FIC firmware for my specific car to Q110. Hopefully both of these items will do the trick! Working on this in the next few days.
This is an old centrifugal type SC kit put out by SRT over 10 years ago! Lol. It is in mint condition where everything performs as it should mechanically. The last (and only) CL member that had this kit installed a long time ago made 420whp and 356wtq...without having headers or building the engine! (His dyno below) This was attained at 8.5 psi. So far I am at about 60% of what the new SRT twin-screw SC kit costs and will make similar power.
if the kit doesnt work out for you or you decide to part it out...please lemme know.
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07-07-14, 04:25 PM
#12
Everything has been installed! Well, except for the POS used FIC that I bought; I'll never buy used electronics again. It's at AEM in Cali getting inspected as we speak.
The car starts, idles and revs AWESOME! I can, and have been doing some light around town driving keeping her under 3k RPMs as I am running VERY rich on the stock ECU only right now; just got a CEL as well regarding banks too rich. Don't want to drive it too much for now because I don't want to kill my cats. Lol
One thing for sure is the car sounds absolutely incredible! My friend heard me rev it in person and he was flipping out mentioning he's never heard a car make that sound. The BOV is amazing when I rev to say 5k and quickly let off. It actually sounds like a modded TT Supra, just a little throatier. I can't wait to get the FIC back, hook it up and start tuning her. I will post up pics tomorrow if I can for now.
Mr. Johnson...your kit will live on!
The car starts, idles and revs AWESOME! I can, and have been doing some light around town driving keeping her under 3k RPMs as I am running VERY rich on the stock ECU only right now; just got a CEL as well regarding banks too rich. Don't want to drive it too much for now because I don't want to kill my cats. Lol
One thing for sure is the car sounds absolutely incredible! My friend heard me rev it in person and he was flipping out mentioning he's never heard a car make that sound. The BOV is amazing when I rev to say 5k and quickly let off. It actually sounds like a modded TT Supra, just a little throatier. I can't wait to get the FIC back, hook it up and start tuning her. I will post up pics tomorrow if I can for now.
Mr. Johnson...your kit will live on!
07-07-14, 07:50 PM
#15
First, my wife got pregnant, on hold. Then, 7 mos later a couple of months before she was due I had to leave my nice lofty job because they made a few bad construction deals and were ready to close the doors. Nervous about the new baby coming and issues with my job I took the first job offer at a bit of a loss and a much further commute.
Then winter struck so it was "lets wait until the Spring/ Summer."
Come the Spring we wound up doing some upgrading in and outside the house...and before you know it Fall/Winter came again.
The following Spring/Summer I had a medical issue to deal with (hernia). Which then shortly after I bounced back I got a big promotion at my job; more responsibility, longer hours and less time at home and no time to devote to thinking about an SC install.
Once again here comes Fall/Winter. So then, I put my foot down and said definitely the Spring. Dropped the car off to the shop in April and got it back more than 2 mos later. The shop delayed the start of the install due to trying to finish up cars ahead of mine. There was a stopping point when they couldn't figure how to install the damn bracket; "we" figured that out. Then they (and I) spent the last 3-4 weeks trying to figure out issues with the FIC. Finally, got the car back with everything done but without a tune last Thursday.
During the Fall/Winter seasons I was sourcing additional parts like fuel pump, different spark plugs, gauges, etc etc as well as powder coating my IC piping and other stuff.
So, as you can see sometimes "life happens" especially when you have a family to support. Many times throughout the years I contemplated selling this kit; had a lot of offers. Never sold it as I knew one day it will be put to use on my ride.
There you have it. My explanation to all as to why I was "sitting" on this thing forever. Thanks for reading. I will start a new, fresh thread soon with pics and hopefully a video at idle and rev. I have a few people that I'd like to give many thanks for helping me with this install, I will mention them in my new thread. Thanks guys and have a good night!