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They are different. Unfortunately it won't fit an IS350.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff,
Do we have any other option for LSD bolt in assemblies, i'm assuming the cradles are different ?
Happy to pay, just not overly interested in paying $1500 for an ISF diff with bad ratio's, 3.7 and over i think would be a good option for a 3IS IS350.
Worst case i will go with a 2IS 350 diff with no LSD.
Read through this thread, but have a few questions.
1. Does anyone know the actual part number for the 2013 MT FR-S LSD only without the pumpkin? I'm curious to know the cost from Toyota brand new.
2. If this is purchased used, how can i verify that it is actually an authentic LSD from a MT FR-S.
2. If this is purchased used, how can i verify that it is actually an authentic LSD from a MT FR-S.
It doesn't need to be from an MT FR-S, it can be from any FR-S. They're all 4.10:1 LSD's. Once you get into the newer 86 models, the MT has 4.30:1, but the AT still has the 4.10:1 LSD. As for verifying, you can look at the label on the differential housing, but your best bet is to open it up and look at the differential unit. I've not seen any other units that look like the stock T2 Torsen.
Thanks Jeff, i will ask for the price of this one, and just to confirm it doesn't matter whether its AT or MT both pumpkins are a direct replacement for the IS250 ? Also would it be safer to do a direct swap on pumpkins rather that open stock is250 pumpkin and replace with LSD only? are all the original internals compatible ?
Called Toyota 41110-18021 - 4.10:1 (Replaces 41110-18020) - $3500 CA and the LSD only (41301-53020) - $7000 CA
Do you think the complete pumpkin doesn't have the LSD, the sales person wasn't able to confirm without a VIN.
The price is cheaper for the complete unit than just the LSD itself. This is the case for many assemblies vs. service parts depending on various conditions in how the part is coded, but it happens more frequently than you might think.
It's easiest to just swap the whole thing, but the internals are also compatible between all of them.
Most will be lacking the tools, knowledge, time, and required shims to swap in an LSD carrier assembly into their own housing. That said the 250 gang has an abundant cheap supply of options so why bother unless you want something better than the torsen unit. The 350 and C owners, not so much and not wanting increase the maintenance on the vehicle leads to a hefty expense for OS Giken. Which for everything but the lexus crowd is 1/2 the cost.
^I'd assume there have been some boosted BRZ/FRS owners running a stock Torsen LSD setup. Perhaps so time looking into what #s those folks were putting down would help calm any issues you might have about the LSD holding up. I would agree about the half shafts going out first, especially if you get some nasty wheelhop off of a launch. Luckily when I had my boosted Honda I had a Quaife LSD, so I only had to worry about the shafts. But with lifetime replacement warranties on AutoZone shafts, I never worried too much.
Talk about way back machine... 2014 post.
As for the shafts; the 250, 350, F all use the same ones so Unless you're putting down more than juiced V8, the shafts are not the week link.
Finally placed an order for a BRZ Differential. hopefully I get better traction on my AWD.
I ordered some new Timken shaft seals as well. Still debating on which gear oil to use. As to the torsen doesn't require an LS package? I was thinking of still using some Mobil LS 75W-90.
Stock photo of said diff. Though the listing says for references only. I hope it's the actual diff LOL.
Finally placed an order for a BRZ Differential. hopefully I get better traction on my AWD.
I ordered some new Timken shaft seals as well. Still debating on which gear oil to use. As to the torsen doesn't require an LS package? I was thinking of still using some Mobil LS 75W-90.
Stock photo of said diff. Though the listing says for references only. I hope it's the actual diff LOL.
Cool!!! Get the OEM tag read ASAP. It has the build date and typically 3 characters that define the ratio and carrier type. i.e open or Torsen.
Also, this may or may not apply but the 350 has left and right seals. This may be true here too? Applicable as 99.9% of the miles are spent going forward. So anything to reduce potential leaks....
Perhaps upgrade the diff mounts to poly while out??
Useless info here but the 350's are all marked "327" for their open 4.083:1 gear set.
Cool!!! Get the OEM tag read ASAP. It has the build date and typically 3 characters that define the ratio and carrier type. i.e open or Torsen.
Also, this may or may not apply but the 350 has left and right seals. This may be true here too? Applicable as 99.9% of the miles are spent going forward. So anything to reduce potential leaks....
Perhaps upgrade the diff mounts to poly while out??
Useless info here but the 350's are all marked "327" for their open 4.083:1 gear set.
For the seals I looked at my normal go to places. For the 250 it shows same part number L/R. Part number listed was 90311-43001.
As for upgraded bushing I was thinking of these. I still need to compare subframe, and bushing to make sure they will work.
The bushings that hold the diff to the subframe are interchangeable between -86 and -250 applications. The subframe to body mounts I'm unsure of, need to sweet-talk a -86 owner into measuring theirs.
The seals shouldn't be any worse for wear, mine are the factory '13 FR-S seals that sat uncovered in my garage for ~3 years, catching all sorts of FOD before being blown out with an air wand, bolted in, and given full send on the ice in my driveway without oil so I could flip it around and fill it while level. No glitter on the plug after running ~20 secs dry, filled with Royal Purple 75w90, ~15k miles of hard driving later and no problems aside from me kicking myself for not doing it sooner. We see 50+ degree swings in temperature, and while my truck's pinion seals all weep gear oil like it's their job, the -250's yet to drop anything but AC condensate and mud...of course, YMMV.
The bushings that hold the diff to the subframe are interchangeable between -86 and -250 applications. The subframe to body mounts I'm unsure of, need to sweet-talk a -86 owner into measuring theirs.
The seals shouldn't be any worse for wear, mine are the factory '13 FR-S seals that sat uncovered in my garage for ~3 years, catching all sorts of FOD before being blown out with an air wand, bolted in, and given full send on the ice in my driveway without oil so I could flip it around and fill it while level. No glitter on the plug after running ~20 secs dry, filled with Royal Purple 75w90, ~15k miles of hard driving later and no problems aside from me kicking myself for not doing it sooner. We see 50+ degree swings in temperature, and while my truck's pinion seals all weep gear oil like it's their job, the -250's yet to drop anything but AC condensate and mud...of course, YMMV.
Exhibit B doesn't look like the stock photo. Now I have to clean this thing up a little to prep the surface to repaint. I was thinking spraying some white vinegar, and letting it sit. Then scrub with SOS pads. Any suggestions welcomed to clean this eye sore.
The seals look beat up on this one. I'm glad I ordered replacement. One side looks like its chipped and cut. When they removed the axle.
01-08-19, 07:45 PM
