laxton

hey all..
I own a 2001 is300 in mint condition and I've been thinking of going na/t for a while now BUT I have a dilemma..

EVERYTHING in my car feels as its functioning perfect, no ticks, smoke, doesn't use oil etc...
But it currently has 167,750 miles on it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yes I know the 2jz is a very reliable engine but will the engine, tranny hold up after so many miles???

My power goals are set to a modest 300-350 rwhp obviously depending on the tune etc..
I'm planning on upgrading the valve body on the current tranny if I follow thru with the na/t kit and I just done the water pump, timing belt, cam seals, crank seal, oil change, rear diff oil change and fresh tranny fluid yesterday.

thanks for any input!

BiggDatty

I smell a tranny swap! If you're goal is 300-350, I recommend a w55/w58. What kind of transmission is it currently right now?

BoughtanIS

If it's an '01 then it's auto. If you're going to stay below the 350 mark, then a manual would be worlds of fun, but if you plan on going any higher, stick to your auto, unless you want to swap in an R154.

Taks_is300

If you would like to feel better before going F/I do a compression/leak down test if its flat across the board you should be good to go. When I mean flat that all the pressures are roughly the same. Minimum is 156psi Nominal 192psi within 14psi of each other.

With 167,xxx miles did you look if the suspension has been serviced since the car rolled off the assembly line. Might want to look into the bushings and shocks/struts. The car might feel loose with old hardware and bigger power.

Good luck

2broke2mod

Is that you first ever change on the water pump?

laxton

Yes, that's my first water pump change on the vehicle.
The car rides on h&r springs and kyb struts with polly bushings all around
I would like to keep the car auto.. auto is faster lol plus my wife can drive it some
And good advice about the compression check.. totally slipped my mind lol going to order a tester now, ran old one over lol

Taks_is300

OP not to sure if you joined my.is yet but there is a wealth of information there to just read about tuning, prepping for turbo/supercharger induction. I think i read some where on my.is that if the valve upgrade is done it will be able to hold the power but the shifts wont be as silky smooth; also some where on my.is that for your power levels and what I assume your driving style (Daily with weekend warrior shenanigans) is like a trans cooler may be enough for your needs.

laxton

Thanks for the info on my.is!
I'm considering buying a gte complete bottom end new from Toyota... My head will fit no problem correct? I would just like to have a worry free 3-350hp dd

Ek9B18

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...fferences.PICS

Good info here on GE/GTE and swapping

DonCorleone

iTrader: (6)

I'd vote LSx swap.

Taks_is300

I believe the only difference in the blocks is that the GTE has oil squirters which shoot oil to the underside of the pistons to help with cooling. The GE head should fit. Swapping to GTE internals might be cheaper and you might be able to find a good deal on them from the supra guys since they want high HP and swap out for some forged internals anyway.

I am not to sure of your skill set or which way your gonna go with you NA-T (premade kit or piece one together) but I have been looking at the boostlogic kit a lot and it sounds where i wanna be HP wise. Not to be a sales person but all the intake pipes are pre-bent/welded, down-pipe, mid-pipe, and a solid turbo manifold.

Also another thing to think about (not trying to scare you) is moving accessories around the engine bay. I.e. the ABS block, depending on the manifold/setup the turbo may be too close the the brake lines or interfere with the ABS block.

nuturf87

@ Laxton..... Maybe i can make a suggestion...lol. If your intentions are to keep a modest street car with the amount of power you are looking for, i would just swap in a jdm 2jzgte vvti swap due to the ecu's being compatible, making wiring a bit easier, and DD a swapped bpu daily. IMO. It would be cheaper than to rebuild stock bottom end , turbo, fuel etc. At least with the swap is a quicker way to get you on the road. Hope this helps!

Supradelux

I feel you on wanting turbo as well but knowing all the money issues and value never going to get back just sway me to keep it as oem as possible.

TommyBlaze

How much would a 2jz-ge to 2jz-gte swap cost? A turbo kit/build bolt on, sounds more cost effective? Especially when we're looking at a 350hp mark. I'm new to this, so just bare with me...

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

if only looking for 300-350, a gte swap, if done yourself, is the cheaper route...

if looking for more, you'll have to swap the turbo stuff off of the GTE anyways, so building the GE bottom end is the cheaper route..

either way will handle lots of power...