2006 IS250 LS1 Swap
07-23-13, 10:33 PM
#211
The keyless system still works perfectly. There is one additional step to starting the car which involves a second button. Essentially one button for ignition and one for starting, but they still rely on the recognition of the Lexus key fob. .
07-24-13, 01:52 PM
#213
Thumper28: If you are still using the IS250 rear end you might want to look into upgrading to an IS300 Torsen LSD rear end as the entire carrier bolts right into the IS250. (this will not work on an IS350). Also I personally had this diff in my 6MT IS250 and loved it and it will be able to hold up with the power the LS1 puts out.
Last edited by B16da9; 07-25-13 at 04:57 AM.
07-24-13, 05:15 PM
#214
Thumper28: If you are still using the IS250 rear end you might want to look into upgrading to an IS300 Torsen LSD rear end as the entire carrier bolts right into the IS250. (this will not work on an IS300). Also I personally had this diff in my 6MT IS250 and loved it and it will be able to hold up with the power the LS1 puts out.
07-24-13, 06:14 PM
#215
Truly awesome build and rate of progress. Hats off to you sir. I guess the big question is once you complete it and make jigs to duplicate all the brackets when are we doing mine? lol....j/k :-)
When you get to wheels/tires/traction hit me up. Best option is 18" as you'll get the best tire selection and sidewall height for initial bite. You can swing an 11" wide wheel with a 295 with the correct offset with no modifications. If you roll the rear fenders which as this point I can't see why you would even care :-) you can get an 11.5" wide wheel with a 315 tire. If you want to get some very minor body work less than a 1/2" of pull you can get a 12 with 335's. I jammed a 335/30/18 r888 on an 18x11.5 and it came within 3-4mm of actually tucking into the rear fenders with just the fenders rolled and a mild pull. Needless to say with a na ls you shouldn't really need anything over the 315.
subscribed!
When you get to wheels/tires/traction hit me up. Best option is 18" as you'll get the best tire selection and sidewall height for initial bite. You can swing an 11" wide wheel with a 295 with the correct offset with no modifications. If you roll the rear fenders which as this point I can't see why you would even care :-) you can get an 11.5" wide wheel with a 315 tire. If you want to get some very minor body work less than a 1/2" of pull you can get a 12 with 335's. I jammed a 335/30/18 r888 on an 18x11.5 and it came within 3-4mm of actually tucking into the rear fenders with just the fenders rolled and a mild pull. Needless to say with a na ls you shouldn't really need anything over the 315.
subscribed!
07-24-13, 07:09 PM
#216
Truly awesome build and rate of progress. Hats off to you sir. I guess the big question is once you complete it and make jigs to duplicate all the brackets when are we doing mine? lol....j/k :-)
When you get to wheels/tires/traction hit me up. Best option is 18" as you'll get the best tire selection and sidewall height for initial bite. You can swing an 11" wide wheel with a 295 with the correct offset with no modifications. If you roll the rear fenders which as this point I can't see why you would even care :-) you can get an 11.5" wide wheel with a 315 tire. If you want to get some very minor body work less than a 1/2" of pull you can get a 12 with 335's. I jammed a 335/30/18 r888 on an 18x11.5 and it came within 3-4mm of actually tucking into the rear fenders with just the fenders rolled and a mild pull. Needless to say with a na ls you shouldn't really need anything over the 315.
subscribed!
When you get to wheels/tires/traction hit me up. Best option is 18" as you'll get the best tire selection and sidewall height for initial bite. You can swing an 11" wide wheel with a 295 with the correct offset with no modifications. If you roll the rear fenders which as this point I can't see why you would even care :-) you can get an 11.5" wide wheel with a 315 tire. If you want to get some very minor body work less than a 1/2" of pull you can get a 12 with 335's. I jammed a 335/30/18 r888 on an 18x11.5 and it came within 3-4mm of actually tucking into the rear fenders with just the fenders rolled and a mild pull. Needless to say with a na ls you shouldn't really need anything over the 315.
subscribed!
All joking aside, I have and still am considering making a kit for the car. The problem is that even if I provided the motor mounts, oil pan, steering rack adapter, steering input shaft, tie rod ends, clutch mater cylinder, clutch pedal there is still a bunch of custom work. I think I'll have to run some numbers and maybe then I'll put out some feelers for interest.
Where in FL do you live. I'll definitely hit you up when I'm ready to pull the trigger.
Last edited by Thumper28; 07-24-13 at 07:15 PM.
07-24-13, 07:36 PM
#217
So finally the steering is working properly. Here are the final 2 pieces of the puzzle. First the steering input shaft. Working from left to right in the picture below, there is a spline coupler from the Lexus, connected to a 3/4" DD steering shaft with a machined coupler, then a DD to DD universal joint, finally down to a DD to 3/4-36 splined universal for the mustang steering rack.
Close up of the machined and welded coupler
Next was the tie rod ends. The Lexus has a 15mm (not sure of the pitch) female thread. The mustang rack has a 9/16-18 thread. The 9/16-18 thread actually threads into the 15mm thread about a half inch before binding up but it's a little loose. The first time I took the car our I actually had this setup with some jam nuts.
As you can imagine I was not comfortable with this setup long term so I got a set of 9/16-18 rod ends off amazon pretty cheap, cut the 2 tie rods, mechanically fastened them together with a small threaded rod, and then had them welded together. Here's the before and after:
Next post...exhaust. Coming up in about 10 minutes
Close up of the machined and welded coupler
Next was the tie rod ends. The Lexus has a 15mm (not sure of the pitch) female thread. The mustang rack has a 9/16-18 thread. The 9/16-18 thread actually threads into the 15mm thread about a half inch before binding up but it's a little loose. The first time I took the car our I actually had this setup with some jam nuts.
As you can imagine I was not comfortable with this setup long term so I got a set of 9/16-18 rod ends off amazon pretty cheap, cut the 2 tie rods, mechanically fastened them together with a small threaded rod, and then had them welded together. Here's the before and after:
Next post...exhaust. Coming up in about 10 minutes
07-24-13, 08:13 PM
#218
So here is the bill of material for the exhaust:
Flowmaster 2.5" Stainless Steel U-Fit Universal Pipe Kit
Magnaflow X-pipe
Borla ProXS Mufflers
4" Magnaflow Tips
7/16" 304L stainless rod for hangers
As I said earlier, a friend of mine has a workshop with a lift and after completing the fabrication I don't know what I was thinking when I considered doing this on jackstands in my garage.
I think the Flowmaster kit was made for the 2IS. We used every single pipe in the kit with the exception of the H-pipe tubes and it all fits like a glove.
Here are the pics with the system on the car all tacked up:
And one more off the car ready to take over to the welder:
I should be able to get the fully welded exhaust back on the car by this weekend.
Doing some turbo research for future mods:
Actually that's my buddies current project.
If there's any questions about how fast it will be I think this provides a pretty good answer
Flowmaster 2.5" Stainless Steel U-Fit Universal Pipe Kit
Magnaflow X-pipe
Borla ProXS Mufflers
4" Magnaflow Tips
7/16" 304L stainless rod for hangers
As I said earlier, a friend of mine has a workshop with a lift and after completing the fabrication I don't know what I was thinking when I considered doing this on jackstands in my garage.
I think the Flowmaster kit was made for the 2IS. We used every single pipe in the kit with the exception of the H-pipe tubes and it all fits like a glove.
Here are the pics with the system on the car all tacked up:
And one more off the car ready to take over to the welder:
I should be able to get the fully welded exhaust back on the car by this weekend.
Doing some turbo research for future mods:
Actually that's my buddies current project.
If there's any questions about how fast it will be I think this provides a pretty good answer
Last edited by Thumper28; 09-05-19 at 12:37 PM.
07-25-13, 04:57 AM
#221
That sure is a lovely sound, I can't tell you how many times a friend of mine and I rolled up on some american muscle in his Turbo B18C CRX and gave them the raping of a lifetime........got to love that power to weight ratio.
Last edited by B16da9; 07-25-13 at 05:03 AM.
07-28-13, 09:44 AM
#222
Quick non-pic update. I got the factory tach and speedo working. It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be. For the tach I was able to find the tach signal wire on the Lexus ECU and hook it up to the Holley tach output. The speedo was a little more of an effort but that's only because I had to massacre the ABS to separate the control board from the mechanical portion (I'll post some pics soon). Once I hooked up the control board the speedo worked perfectly. So with the exception of about 5 warning lights it looks like I am in business.
Now I just need to refurbish my melting dash board and I can get my interior back together.
Now I just need to refurbish my melting dash board and I can get my interior back together.
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2013FSport (08-19-17)
08-01-13, 11:05 AM
#224
Great Info. I had my heart set on 19s but I might be convinced of 18s if the setup is right. There was a GT500 getting tuned at the shop next door to my friends bay yesterday that had some sick rear tires with a lot of rubber. I'll have to take a look at the specs next time I see it.
All joking aside, I have and still am considering making a kit for the car. The problem is that even if I provided the motor mounts, oil pan, steering rack adapter, steering input shaft, tie rod ends, clutch mater cylinder, clutch pedal there is still a bunch of custom work. I think I'll have to run some numbers and maybe then I'll put out some feelers for interest.
Where in FL do you live. I'll definitely hit you up when I'm ready to pull the trigger.
All joking aside, I have and still am considering making a kit for the car. The problem is that even if I provided the motor mounts, oil pan, steering rack adapter, steering input shaft, tie rod ends, clutch mater cylinder, clutch pedal there is still a bunch of custom work. I think I'll have to run some numbers and maybe then I'll put out some feelers for interest.
Where in FL do you live. I'll definitely hit you up when I'm ready to pull the trigger.
