Can't get Tranny drain plug out
 

Went to do a drain and fill on my 98 GS400 today. (I do a drain and fill every 15k). went to remove the drain plug as I have always done and it won't come out. It will turn and seems to get loose then tight again but does not back out of the hole.
It has the feeling of a bolt that is spinning on a nut.
No fluid comes out so I can still drive the car but don't like this.
Since I have never had the pan off, is there a nut on the inside of the pan that is loose?
Anybody else had this problem/what was the fix?
TIA,
JimA

It sounds like the bolt is crossed tred

Basically stripped, eh?

stripped. happened to mine but i was able to get it out and put in a new drain plug...

g'luck!

I might try slipping a blade under it while ratcheting it out with a socket. Maybe then it will bite enough that I can get it out without having ot drop the pan altogether.

Is it more likely the plug that is damaged or the threads on the pan?
JiMA

I'm sorry to say but you've stripped the threads inside of the pan. You'll have to drop the pan and then remove the drain plug. Once the pan is out, you'll have to get a new drain plug and measure the thread pitch and see if you can tap the correct thread pitch again. If it is too big of a damage where your tap diameter is larger than the drain plug, then unfortunately you're gonna have to get a new pan. A new pan runs around $100 or so.

Okay. What type of sealant for the pan? I might as well replace the strainer/filter while I have the pan off. I have everything to re-tap the pan.
What is the pitch of the original plug?

alternative solution is to just give up on the drain plug and use an fluid extractor from here on out for your tranny changes.
Be sure to get a decent extractor that actually works well. Getting a budget one will frustrate you to no end.
Mityvac 7201 is a good one for example.

I had a pan that got the threads damaged. I just drilled out the threads on the pan and then I went to the hardware store to get a nut with the same thread and welded it on inside the pan. It's a much better solution because the threads on the oil pan are only like 1/8" tall. I replaced it with a bolt that is 1/2" tall, it disperses the torque more evenly so much less chance of damaging the threads. Then again, you need to have a welder to do that lol. Just a suggestion though...

Jeff,
That is a viable option for me. My buddy is a welder/fabricator by trade. I will be doing the pan drop at his place as he has a pit in his garage.
Beats the hell out of lying on your back to do the job.
Question....
WOuldn't it be better to weld the nut onto the outside of the pan so as to not lessen the amount that drains out when you do a drain and fill?
JimA

if you get a filter it should come with a gasket for the pan.. mine did for the SC400.

You can buy a pan gasket, I'm not sure what companies make them for our application, but I know that you can also you silcone, I know at Toyota that's what we used on pans is their FITV, just about any oil compatible silicone will work for this application.

I've also used the toyota FIPG. Use the orange stuff and not the black FIPG as that's for the oil pan. As for the transmission filter, you should find a transtar distributor and they'll have everything you need for your transmission.

Either way, it's your choice. I put the nut inside the pan and just put on about 4-5 tack welds. Less heat into the pan = less chance of warping it. You can weld the nut onto the outside of pan, but you have to well all the way around it. However, you make a good point about draining more fluid with the bolt outside of the pan. I guess it's up to you :)

You can get the filters from your local auto parts store. I do these for people all the time and it comes with the filter and rubber oil pan gasket for around $40. Only thing you have to pay attention to is that you must remove all the old silicone prior to putting the rubber gasket or else it won't seal properly.