When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I paid 57 for both on amazon. I’m a nube on repairs but between YouTube and a mechanic I work with at a car lot giving me advice I’m gonna do it myself. My friend mentioned lubing them a little because of the new seals being fresh and a little larger. Thanks for telling me. I’m sure I would have been about half frustrated at that point and broken one. Any advice with the throttle body?
So I just replaced mine today and yes those are the ones I replaced mine with believe it or not. I called the lexus dealership to confirm because the last numbers are different than what is the originals. They said it’s the same but a new series if that makes sense. So far no codes. You might clean the throttle body while your their. Be careful with the plastic clips on the wire harness because I broke mine and had to zip tie it in.
Yep I had the rough idle too.
The part numbers originally were 15330-50010 and 15340-50010
The new ones end in 0F010 — same part
So I just replaced mine today and yes those are the ones I replaced mine with believe it or not. I called the lexus dealership to confirm because the last numbers are different than what is the originals. They said it’s the same but a new series if that makes sense. So far no codes. You might clean the throttle body while your their. Be careful with the plastic clips on the wire harness because I broke mine and had to zip tie it in.
Yep I had the rough idle too.
The part numbers originally were 15330-50010 and 15340-50010
The new ones end in 0F010 — same part
Hope this helps.
You know when I was reading your original post in this thread, I was wondering if I had somehow made an account in my sleep because you have the exact same issue as me, and it looks like we both had the issue on the exact same day! And we have the exact same vehicle, except mine I think has about 40k more miles than yours. The coincidence is unreal!
Anyway, I've ordered the parts! I was playing around with the solenoids today, and both looked pretty clean. I sprayed some brake cleaner on them anyway and put them back in, and yeah, I too broke the plastic tab on the passenger side solenoid. I also put in brand new NGK spark plugs as a shot in the dark, even though the Denso iridiums in there were in pretty good shape. The spark plugs didn't help with the misfires and rough idle, so I'll be putting in the solenoids once they arrive in a few days ... fingers crossed.
So I just replaced mine today and yes those are the ones I replaced mine with believe it or not. I called the lexus dealership to confirm because the last numbers are different than what is the originals. They said it’s the same but a new series if that makes sense. So far no codes. You might clean the throttle body while your their. Be careful with the plastic clips on the wire harness because I broke mine and had to zip tie it in.
Yep I had the rough idle too.
The part numbers originally were 15330-50010 and 15340-50010
The new ones end in 0F010 — same part
Hope this helps.
I think I got the wrong parts. The valves don't fit, and they look different.
The old valve just slides in and out without any undue effort, but these new ones from Amazon get stuck halfway. The Amazon valves are shaped differently than the old ones. Picture below:
Do you remember your new, Amazon valves looking like this? Did they slide in easily or did it take a bit of effort?
New, bought from Amazon valve on left; old valve on right. (And yes, I am comparing the proper valves).
UPDATE:
I got the replacement part to fit after loosening a bolt on the thing that houses the VVT/OCV solenoid valve. Turns out that part of the replacement solenoid valve was getting caught on the bolt, preventing it from sliding in more than halfway.
Nonetheless, the replacement part just does not want to go completely into the housing. The replacement part goes like 95% of the way in, but it does not sit flush with the housing holding the valve. The black rubber gasket on the replacement part makes contact with the housing, but it stops there. I started the engine, drove it a few miles, and it seems that it is not spraying oil out from the gasket area. Idling is also much smoother now and the average gas mileage even went up 0.2-0.3 MPG (maybe that's just a coincidence, but I'll take it). I'll probably put a shop rag around the gasket later and drive around for a bit to confirm that it's not spraying tiny oil droplets all over the place, but I'm not too concerned right now.
Wow, Ummm that’s a problem. So passenger side slid in and out with the new ones. The drivers side resisted but my mechanic friend told me this would happen so I lubed them with engine oil. Still I had to push it in some. I used the screw to kinda push it in when I tightened it. Be careful they can break as you’ll see Scraap guy said a few post back. I didn’t have to loosen a screw either literally in and out. What are the part numbers?
would the blocked vvt filter code p1349 throw the vsc light and vsc off light up on the dash , because im getting this code and both them light on the dash ?
would the blocked vvt filter code p1349 throw the vsc light and vsc off light up on the dash , because im getting this code and both them light on the dash ?
Yep! Mine did. Saw on a thread this is not abnormal when this model throws a code.
Wow, Ummm that’s a problem. So passenger side slid in and out with the new ones. The drivers side resisted but my mechanic friend told me this would happen so I lubed them with engine oil. Still I had to push it in some. I used the screw to kinda push it in when I tightened it. Be careful they can break as you’ll see Scraap guy said a few post back. I didn’t have to loosen a screw either literally in and out. What are the part numbers?
For the passenger side, did you have to unbolt the airbox and the throttle body? I had to unbolt the airbox and the throttle body to wiggle out the old one and slide in the new one. The new one went int without a hitch on the passenger side.
The drivers side resisted because there was about 1mm of overlap between the new solenoid valve's bolt flange and an existing bolt on the vehicle.
Nonetheless, I've got all the new VVT vavles in, and the car runs even better than with only one new VVT valve. It's no longer sluggish when warming up.
However--there remains one thing--on both the driver and passenger sides, the replacement VVT valve does not sit flush with its housing. The gasket on the new VVT valves hit the housing, but there is a gap between the gasket/housing and the top part of the VVT valve. I tightened down the VVT bolts as good as I could because I don't want the valves coming loose and oil shooting everywhere past the gasket. Is this the case with your LS400--is there a gap?
My car (99' SC300) is giving the same problem , i just ordered the OCV Valve on Ebay today, can't wait to install it and see what happens. This is a good informative thread btw.
For the passenger side, did you have to unbolt the airbox and the throttle body? I had to unbolt the airbox and the throttle body to wiggle out the old one and slide in the new one. The new one went int without a hitch on the passenger side.
The drivers side resisted because there was about 1mm of overlap between the new solenoid valve's bolt flange and an existing bolt on the vehicle.
Nonetheless, I've got all the new VVT vavles in, and the car runs even better than with only one new VVT valve. It's no longer sluggish when warming up.
However--there remains one thing--on both the driver and passenger sides, the replacement VVT valve does not sit flush with its housing. The gasket on the new VVT valves hit the housing, but there is a gap between the gasket/housing and the top part of the VVT valve. I tightened down the VVT bolts as good as I could because I don't want the valves coming loose and oil shooting everywhere past the gasket. Is this the case with your LS400--is there a gap?
Yes I did have to unbolt those. I did not have this issue at all. It looks like your missing the rubber gasket that came on mine. That’s my guess. I would proabably try to send it back or order another. It should have a black gasket between the engine body and the solenoid. I had the fortunate situation of a mechanic looking over my shoulder. I hope that helps. Btw i apologize it took so long to respond!
Last edited by OsLS400; 01-17-18 at 04:49 AM.
Reason: More info
My car (99' SC300) is giving the same problem , i just ordered the OCV Valve on Ebay today, can't wait to install it and see what happens. This is a good informative thread btw.
Thanks! Man this forum has saved me so much money!
I'm in the process of trying to get the OCV filter out and I dropped one of the crush washers that goes around the banjo bolt. Does anyone know what the part number is or where I can find one? I've been looking all over the forum for info on that crush washer and can't find anything about it.
I'm in the process of trying to get the OCV filter out and I dropped one of the crush washers that goes around the banjo bolt. Does anyone know what the part number is or where I can find one? I've been looking all over the forum for info on that crush washer and can't find anything about it.
90430-16012 IS THE PART NUMBER YOU NEED.
This is for you 2jz, at first I was looking at the UZ since this thread is specific to the UZ OCV's but the mention of a banjo bolt gave it away...
Last edited by FrankT; 11-25-18 at 10:44 AM.
Reason: added diagram
I haven’t searched too hard so if this has already be done, oh well. I was doing this last night and had a request to provide info so I went ahead and snapped some pictures and figured I could do a little tutorial.
First remove the forward vanity cover on the front of the engine. It is 4, 5mm allen bolts.
While solenoid was out, I decided to change the oil supply line filter. Yes, you can just clean it out, but at $5 I see no reason to not just replace it. Loosen 22mm banjo bolt and pull it out.
Reassemble everything in reverse order. Technically you should replace the washers on both sides of the banjo; I skipped out and didn’t have issues w/ leaks. Typically you can get away w/out doing, but I figured I’d mentioned them anyway. There’s one on each side of the banjo.
Also of note, on the new VVT solenoid (and old) there is an oring to seal it in the bore. Apply some oil to the oring prior to install. This will help prevent it from getting cut while installing.
I haven't posted here in a while because I'm been enjoying my new toy... and after 20 years and 175k miles, I finally got the dreaded P1349 code while waiting on a Chick-fil-a milkshake. I was cheating on my diet, so now I'm paying the price lol. I'm planning on replacing the variable oil control valve solenoid, the OCV filter, and TPS while I'm there since they give you the CEL, VSC, and VSC Off lights. The power of search works all the time.
12-27-17, 10:06 AM
