are these headers available still? i want to get a set but ive heard rumors they werent available any longer.

if they still make them where can i get them? i have money in hand.

 

There's a first gen on classified and u can buy the second gen from carson or www.ssheaders.com

whichever saves u money...or time ...go for it.

 

Do NOT buy a first generation set. They will crack. Buy the current generation. S&S may have them in stock. You can also buy from a couple of CL vendors. Just make sure they are the new design.

 

The bolts that are welded to the flange are too short. I'd advise anyone who wants to purchase the headers to request them to not weld the bolts on or put a longer ones in.

 

Are you CERTAIN? The bolts were added to make it easier to install as those are very hard to get a wrench behind.

They should be plenty long to attached the catalysts. Makes me concerned about your install. Here are pictures.

 

I had a short bolt. The two bolts were different length too. They gave me like atleast twenty bolts with no nuts...is that normal? I have a leak...I suspect it's at the flange. I will take it in to the shop to get it tighten.

Also, buy two new universal O2 sensors on standby... you may need them (can always get it refunded). Don't buy OEM...expensive! Or get two driver side OEM O2 sensors (they are the same O2 as passenger side...just different length) and splice the wires (color coded).

 

even with the complication... I say it's worth it! I hate to say, it's another bad example of oversight of "American Made"

 

Yes, that was not correct, each bolt should have been the length of the longer one. I will report to S&S.

The twenty bolts are provided as replacement for the stock head studs. Do NOT use them. S&S does not need to provide these or the gaskets.

Performance and fitment? Other than noted above was the fitment correct? How about the performance?

 

Performance is magic! Love it!!!! Fitment was great too. BTW, even the longer bolt was short...They must've switched out the bolts or ran out (hence different bolt lengths).

 

how hard is the install on these? can anyone with access to a shop and moderate knowledge of working on cars do this or does it require a "PRO" to install?

 

Supposedly the hardest part is to remove the OEM heatshield. I've taken a look at it and it doesn't seem too bad. It's nothing like rebuilding an engine that requires extensive knowledge.

 

You don't need knowledge to install these. You need patience. Small hands. Tools of varying lengths... and more patience...and did I mention patience? LOL.

If you need to remove the motor mount, my suggestion is to use a power tool and remove the four bolts that is attached to the engine and the two bolts on the frame. Zip Zip done. Use a jack to hold up the engine for more room if you are doing it without a lift (we did).

When tightening the bolts...start from the middle and work your way out, torque to 32 lb/ft (just in case there is no room to do torque wrench on it). Go back and check for any loose bolts because once you tighten one bolt the others may come loose. The idea is to torque all bolts evenly.

If you start, make sure you give yourself two days just in case. Do not rush or your work will be more difficult. Remove whatever is in the way (Don't take shortcuts or you will get a short cut). Removing is the hard part.

Buy extra nuts and bolts to replace some bad ones (during removal, you will mess up some bolts...even when you PB blast it). Buy Two driver side O2 sensors (cheaper than passenger O2 sensor...which is twice to three times more expensive). If O2 sensor are not seized, resuse and return store bought one.

You may need a bar to bend the engine to certain direction to make it easier to access bolts. Take a Friday off so you can work on it... Just in case something goes wrong, you will still have a Saturday.

Buy new gaskets for the exhaust and donuts for the Cat. Good time to replace the motor mounts (get'm on ebay it's way cheaper than CL vendors).

Do not use powertools if you don't have a perfect grip on the bolts.


Now, some questions for the Pros. What to do with heat? heat wrap?

 

[QUOTE=sam430;4347800]You don't need knowledge to install these. You need patience. Small hands. Tools of varying lengths... and more patience...and did I mention patience? LOL.

If you need to remove the motor mount, my suggestion is to use a power tool and remove the four bolts that is attached to the engine and the two bolts on the frame. Zip Zip done. Use a jack to hold up the engine for more room if you are doing it without a lift (we did).

When tightening the bolts...start from the middle and work your way out, torque to 32 lb/ft (just in case there is no room to do torque wrench on it). Go back and check for any loose bolts because once you tighten one bolt the others may come loose. The idea is to torque all bolts evenly.

If you start, make sure you give yourself two days just in case. Do not rush or your work will be more difficult. Remove whatever is in the way (Don't take shortcuts or you will get a short cut). Removing is the hard part.

Buy extra nuts and bolts to replace some bad ones (during removal, you will mess up some bolts...even when you PB blast it). Buy Two driver side O2 sensors (cheaper than passenger O2 sensor...which is twice to three times more expensive). If O2 sensor are not seized, resuse and return store bought one.

You may need a bar to bend the engine to certain direction to make it easier to access bolts. Take a Friday off so you can work on it... Just in case something goes wrong, you will still have a Saturday.

Buy new gaskets for the exhaust and donuts for the Cat. Good time to replace the motor mounts (get'm on ebay it's way cheaper than CL vendors).

Do not use powertools if you don't have a perfect grip on the bolts.


Now, some questions for the Pros. What to do with heat? heat wrap?[/QUOTE]


hmmm...good question. I left mine bare (without any heat shield); is this bad?

 

Sam, good tips.

Heat wise I am unaware of anyone running shields or wrap. The ceramic coating reduces heat over uncoated steel. Are you seeing anything unusual?

 

No, I don't see anything unusual... I want to protect all the wiring from going brittle. I thought heat wrap would be an option. Others may do something more "genius". The less heat you introduce in the engine bay the better (for everything).