i'm starting to piece my FI soon and don't know what to run
greddy blue or greddy ultimate

my plans are ether 1
basic LMS supercharger kit
440cc injectors
walbro fuel pump
and some kind of management
and upgrade the head gasket
(looking to push around 300rwhp)


or plan 2
Turbo
but too much piece to piece together
if i go turbo, 400rwhp or better....lol


any info would be much help
and aem standalone is too much$$

 

Haltech F10x

 

the F10x is fuel only

 

Tommy,
We are have a PNP kit for the AEM EMS available. I'm not sure what is your goal. If you want more details. Give us a ring. Thank you.
JPI

 

I know it's only fuel, are you going to be messing with timing? If your going for a budget kit you really don't need to be messing with timing. Difference between the F10x and the Greddy (Blue at least but pretty sure it's ultimate as well) is that it is a standalone fuel computer, not a piggyback unit. This means the car will not "self-tune" over time so you won't have to constantly mess with the settings on the unit. If you want to research what I'm talking about more head over to the IS boards and you will see the Emanage Blue was used with mediocre results and eventually removed by most of the people who were running it.

 

Is the least expensive computer I would put on my car. Prices on the AEM is coming down so that is another alternative. Trust me do it right the first time or you will pay for it later (Blown Motor). Sure you can use the Emanage but your car will run like crap. Drive ability should be the first concern when boosting your car then horse power. I am using the TEC3R and I am pushing over 650hp with out any drive ability issues. No Check Engine lights, No Stalling, No Hicups. The car idles like stock, the only way you know that I am turboed is when you hear my Blow off valve. Take your time, buy the correct parts and it will pay off at the end.

Later, Jose

 

budget is not an issue,,,, i just don't want to hit the $8k mark. i'm about to forward with FI soon. i'm leaning toward the vortech supercharger for a is300 and hav it custom pipe for my GS. my gs is more of a show car then a go car

 

As far as running a Haltech E6X or K (older variant of the X) you can do that but it is a full standalone so your going to lose Vvti, which I doubt you want, your going to lose it with the AEM as well unless someone has figured out how to control it but I'm pretty sure they haven't.

I personally would go with the F10x, it has proven to be much better on our cars than anything Greddy offers. You can get an F10x installed and tuned for probably around the $1000 mark and have fuel standalone fuel, without worrying about timing and losing vvti. It has it's own map sensor etc.. so it's truly stand alone from your factory ecu and you don't have to worry about the ecu fighting it. I have been around alot of FI Is's and Gs's, just my .02 cents.

 

Did you have to do or wire anything extra to not get a CEL with the TEC3R? I have read that picking the rite EMS is only half the battle. Getting it tuned down to the T so you don't get CEL's, idle and drive like stock, is what is really important in having a boosted Lexus drive like stock no matter the HP level. I would really like to go boost within a year or two, the only problem besides the $ is finding a capable and trustworthy tuner with plenty of experience with Toyota/Lexus to tune the car. I have one in mind here in AZ, but I don't know much about them. After all, a big issue is emissions too. I will need to pass the plug in obd II scanner test. If I am certain that can get my boosted GS to run, drive and idle like stock, have no CEL's and no short/long term fuel trim issues, and pass emissions, I would have a boosted GS already . Unless, am I asking for too much?

 

JPI, how are you using a PNP with the AEM. according to AEM they dont offer anything that utilizes drive by wire, nor vvti control. i am running an AEM on my own car, but had to jump through some pretty big hoops to do such. If youd rather discuss this via PM, i'm fine with that, just seeing what you guys are doing cause i was in this boat not to long ago.

kevin

 

If you are going for any real boost timing control is a requirement, you dont want to do anything more than relativley low boost levels without timing control.

 

Running an AEM in PNP setup requires a custom harness being made. Basically you're tying the AEM to factory ECU...so running 2 ecu's on your car. Biggest difference between this and say like an emanage or whatever is that the AEM has full 100% complete control over fuel and ignition. The emanage just alters the sensor signals to trick the stock ecu to run more/less fuel. The AEM is physically tied into the fuel injectors and igniter module and drives them directly.

With a standalone system, you have much more control and you are the one in control of what the fuel and ignition is doing at all times. If you run a piggyback, you just alter the signals to what you "want" the fuel settings to be at. The stock ecu still has a final say to what the actual output is going to be. Most of the time it works out, but there are times where the stock ecu will self correct to the point where your engine runs dangerously lean under boost...that's when you will hear a boom lol.

It's not too hard to get the AEM to control VVTi. It's just a pulse width modulated signal going to the VVTi solenoid. Set up one of the many pwm output pins on the AEM to the VVTi solenoid output voltage. Drive by wire throttle body is still controlled by the stock ecu. You will retain cruise control, but you will lose traction control since the stock ecu is no longer in control of the fuel/ignition.

It really depends what your power goals are. If you plan to stick around the 300-400rwhp range. Then a Emanage ultimate, AEM FIC, MAPECU is acceptable IF and only if it is tuned by a competent tuner that has worked on this kind of engine/ecu before. The stock ecu on these Lexus cars are a REAL beeotch. If you don't get everything exactly right(shor term fuel trims, long term trims, o2 sensor readings, etc) and know exactly what you're doing...it WILL go out of tune shortly. I'd actually recommend the Haltech F10x if you're around this power range. It's a fuel standalone and has sole control over the injectors. Also since it's a standalone, it won't go out of tune. The F10x is much easier to set up and tune than a full fledged standalone that does fuel/ign. Also with the F10x you just let the factory ecu control most all of your stuff like cold starting, idling, vvti, etc. You basically just tune the fuel and you're set. If you're exceeding the 400-500rwhp range then I'd seriously recommend you to get a good full featured standalone such as the AEM EMS, TEC3, Haltech E8, HKS FCON, etc.

By the way, did I mention I have a Haltech F10x for sale

 

Is there anyway to defeat the CEL's when running the F10x?

 

and one more thing,,,, the maf sensor, how do u run it with turbo??? or do u leave it out????

 

on all the post that mention a ecu (stand lone, piggy back or otherwise) no one has mentioned a apexi power fc

i was wondering why this is?
any particular reason that no one seems to use one??