Fuel gauge problem with upgraded fuel pump...anyone?
Just to update, Darin @ DD Tuning hooked up my tach wire and now my fuel gauge works perfect.
SLVR are you sure your ABS works? Have you ever tested it by locking the brakes? My ABS light doesn't come on however I can lock up the brakes, Darin was thinking that the ABS and VSC may work off each other, and being that the JSPEC's don't have VSC the ABS may not work. The funny thing is the ABS light comes on with the key on and then goes out just like it should after start up.
SLVR are you sure your ABS works? Have you ever tested it by locking the brakes? My ABS light doesn't come on however I can lock up the brakes, Darin was thinking that the ABS and VSC may work off each other, and being that the JSPEC's don't have VSC the ABS may not work. The funny thing is the ABS light comes on with the key on and then goes out just like it should after start up.
Jason the arm does have 100% movement with nothing blocking it. I usually fill my tank when it gets to around 1/4, but I just want a fully working gauge just in case of those times when I really need that last quarter. I rerouted a bunch of the pickups and lines in the tank and I think I might of fixed it. I have 2 gallons of gas in my trunk right now as a "just in case measure". I'm gonna try to run the car till it's empty so I can get a good baseline where my gas tank is empty in reference to the gauge needle.
My gas gauge works perfect now.
Just to update, Darin @ DD Tuning hooked up my tach wire and now my fuel gauge works perfect.
SLVR are you sure your ABS works? Have you ever tested it by locking the brakes? My ABS light doesn't come on however I can lock up the brakes, Darin was thinking that the ABS and VSC may work off each other, and being that the JSPEC's don't have VSC the ABS may not work. The funny thing is the ABS light comes on with the key on and then goes out just like it should after start up.
SLVR are you sure your ABS works? Have you ever tested it by locking the brakes? My ABS light doesn't come on however I can lock up the brakes, Darin was thinking that the ABS and VSC may work off each other, and being that the JSPEC's don't have VSC the ABS may not work. The funny thing is the ABS light comes on with the key on and then goes out just like it should after start up.
I just wanted to let you guys know, I don't think swapping the cluster in the answer, My gas gauge was doing the same thing until Darin at DD Tuning hooked up my tach wire, I think you also need the proper Aristo MAF meter too, they are expensive and I had to have a custom pipe made for the air flow meter too.
My gas gauge works perfect now.
My gas gauge works perfect now.
When you do the swap there is a wire in the factory ignition harness that doesn't have a pin at the "new" igniter plug. You need to put a pin into the correct port on the igniter plug and run it to your ecu box and connect it to the tach wire coming from the ecu. I you don't do this the tach wont function.
When you do the swap there is a wire in the factory ignition harness that doesn't have a pin at the "new" igniter plug. You need to put a pin into the correct port on the igniter plug and run it to your ecu box and connect it to the tach wire coming from the ecu. I you don't do this the tach wont function.
What year is our car? Mine is a 2001 (early model) I'm wondering if maybe the model year is causing my issue. Different models with pinouts.
You should probably message Darin at DD Tuning, he did the work, not sure what he did but the gas gauge reads perfect now. It just to drop only in 1/4 tank increments. full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4, run out of gas... once I seen it hit the zero line and the fuel light came on but I've also had it run out of gas at 1/4 tank too.
I know most you guys are trying to fix the gauge problem in your current installs, but for anyone reading this thread that hasn't gone for a swap or na-t yet, I just used with the swift racing pump hanger to eliminate any potential issues, it is a bit pricey but it takes care of all 3 of the major fuel assembly issues. It gives you a return feed, it keeps the siphon working for the other side of the fuel tank, and my gas gauge also works properly. Another plus is of course allowing a second pump to be used if you need two.
The only 2 downsides with this unit is of course, the price and you can't use the denso supra pumps because they are too big in diameter and everyone seems to love those pumps. If I ever have an issue with these Walbro 255's I will give the DeatschWerks 300's a try since they are the same size. But so far so good with the Walbro's..

The only 2 downsides with this unit is of course, the price and you can't use the denso supra pumps because they are too big in diameter and everyone seems to love those pumps. If I ever have an issue with these Walbro 255's I will give the DeatschWerks 300's a try since they are the same size. But so far so good with the Walbro's..

mine is a 99. didnt you have a non-vvti swap before the vvti? mebbe when the wiring was done for the non-vvti some of the wires werent connected back up properly when you swapped to the vvti engine? Different pinouts is definitely a possibility too. I haven't gone too far into the wiring to be able to answer that question though.
Adam you still running a standalone? Or you running the aristo ecu now?
I got a JDM Trac/VSC/ABS control unit and my ABS works fine now..
And the other thing that comes to mind is that your car was a manual, the ABS/Trac unit is mounted right in the place where the clutch pedal goes, so this needed to be moved/relocated somehow, were the wires cut/extended etc? any chance any are broken or swapped, could easily happen since it is a 105 pin connector and if extended would be 210 solder connections.
I got a JDM Trac/VSC/ABS control unit and my ABS works fine now..
And the other thing that comes to mind is that your car was a manual, the ABS/Trac unit is mounted right in the place where the clutch pedal goes, so this needed to be moved/relocated somehow, were the wires cut/extended etc? any chance any are broken or swapped, could easily happen since it is a 105 pin connector and if extended would be 210 solder connections.
I'm running the Aristo ECU now. Maybe I need that JDM ABS box, the JDM cars don't have trac right? There is no trac butterfly in the throttle body.
That ABS ecu is still in the car, I tried to remove it when I was stand alone but the pedal felt like a rock, the brakes didn't work well with it removed so I put it back in. No need to extend those wires, Just had to make a new mounting bracket to make it clear the pedal.
My ABS has been broken since I bought my car stock 5 years ago.
That ABS ecu is still in the car, I tried to remove it when I was stand alone but the pedal felt like a rock, the brakes didn't work well with it removed so I put it back in. No need to extend those wires, Just had to make a new mounting bracket to make it clear the pedal.
My ABS has been broken since I bought my car stock 5 years ago.
If abs was broke before the swap have you've checked all the abs rings and sensors as well?
The aristo does have traction control, not sure why everyone says it doesn't. The throttle body design has changed and they eliminated the two butterfly design. The trac works in the same manner as the 2jz-ge vvti which also has a single butterfly.
The aristo does have traction control, not sure why everyone says it doesn't. The throttle body design has changed and they eliminated the two butterfly design. The trac works in the same manner as the 2jz-ge vvti which also has a single butterfly.


