SC400 manual Swap Options?
 

I know it's been done many times and there are threads and YouTube videos about it...however, every time I think I've decided on what trans I want and start reading into it, something along the way deters me from it. I recently came across a seller who makes adapter plates and parts to swap in a BMW trans, and this has my interest. Has anyone here done one? Know of any videos or write ups about one?

What don’t you like about the common swaps that are well documented and well known?

Nick

I'd have to dig up my notes for details, but random things I recall... Slave cylinder interfering with the catalytic, tunnel having to be hammered for clearance, shifter position, speedo incompatibility, the constant debate of whether the W58/R154 are durable enough(plan on going FI some day)... Not necessarily saying that none of the common choices are good, just wanted more info on the BMW option, if there was any.

I looked into using a bmw trans behind the JZ a while back. The custom flywheel setup needed looked a bit large to me, and those bmw boxes have their own sets of issues.
I have read about people using the kits and liking them though.

For the UZ though haven't heard much with the bmw transmissions. I have heard about using nissan 5 speeds and the various W/R series boxes, all of which work fine for n/a. The R series would hold some boost also.
If you are planning for some big power, which on a UZ means big torque too, I would also look into using a T56 depending on budget.
You can get a new one, shifter positions are completely customizable, they can hold good power/torque and you can get them with all sorts of upgrades and ratios which pair well with the n/a rear end ratio.
There was an adapter plate for the UZ to T56 using an auto bellhousing somewhere out there, you use a T56 internal hydraulic throw out bearing and there aren't as many fitment issues as you are reusing the auto bellhousing.
I don't think I have seen a full bellhousing for that swap though, but at least you could use the standard flywheel for the UZ manual swaps and a regular push style clutch setup with the T56 bearing.

Got it.

I don’t have any info on the “BMW option” but I’d be curious to find out more, so please keep us informed of your research.

As for the current litany of options, they all have some form of compromise, which can be frustrating, but there is a shoe that fits everyone’s needs, I think.

In the short-term both transmissions you mentioned are really ideal. W58 and R154 are Toyota transmissions that will slot in with the least fuss and work best, to a certain power level. Anything above that, V160 notwithstanding, will require tunnel modifications.

In my opinion, I think you need to weigh out the likelihood of boosting your ride, versus the fun and joy of driving a manual transmission car. In other words, are you really going to boost it one day? We all say that, but how many of us actually do it? If in your heart of hearts your answer is “maybe” or “I hope so” then just do either of the Toyota transmissions and have fun.

Put it this way, if swapping to a different transmission later on is what’s stopping you from doing it now, then you probably weren’t ever going to go through with an FI build anyway. You take my meaning? Down the road, swap to a CD009 or whatever else and sell this setup to someone who’s a few years behind you in their build. There’s no shortage of people who want those transmissions, so just enjoy it now and sell it off later.

Nick

^^ This is what I was just thinking. The best way to go is to have your overall build in mind and just start converting each part of your car for it, transmission included. I knew I was going to go with a boosted JZ engine so after the brakes and suspension I bought, had fully built and installed an R154 reinforced up to about 700whp capability... while I was still running the 100% stock non-turbo engine. I used the cheapest clutch available (OEM MKIII Turbo clutch) since I didn't need anything more. My driveline stayed that way for six years until I was finally ready to install the built engine putting out far more horsepower and torque.

A W58 with the steel sandwich plate from an SC300 or MKIV Supra is a perfect and durable match for any of the 92-97 1UZ-FE V8's without forced induction. That's only 250-260hp.

An R154 is a much more stout transmission with a lot of support to upgrade the internals. They can handle MUCH more torque and repeated shock-loading to the gears (up to around 700whp-750whp max) from a boosted engine. In most cases unless you outright abuse the crap out of it an R154 rebuilt in good working order with an upgraded 1st gear thrust washer, front bearing retainer plate, billet shift forks and a good clutch will handle what most people can throw at it. Transmissions are rated in torque so the 750whp max figure really comes from how much torque 2JZ's and 1JZ's make at a certain power level. A 1UZ 90-degree V8 will express torque differently than a JZ inline-six turbo.

A Getrag V160 is at this point a collector's transmission for MKIV Supra owners. They're amazing and strong... but all rebuild parts are not available any longer. Some still are and some specific parts are made for them on the aftermarket to aid in this. That being said, you REALLY have to abuse one of those in order to break one or get it to the point that a full rebuild is necessary. But they're also easily in the $8k range today and you still need many other components to swap one in. I think at least one 1UZ turbo with a V160 swap has been done many years ago but it's just not worth it today.

The T56 Magnum is the "new V160" today. And as good as the V160 still is when in excellent condition the Magnum will handle a *constant* 700ft-lbs of torque in its standard configuration. In other words the peak ft-lbs rating is likely higher. It's pricey but much less than a V160 Getrag while besting the specs of that increasingly rare transmission. It can be adapted to just about any engine out there so long as an adapter plate, Quicktime bellhousing and input splines exist for it.

I think CL member Lettut or someone else has used a particular BMW 5-speed or 6-speed transmission for their turbo JZ engine build in Europe but the support for that is pretty much limited to the JZ in the European market... because over there the BMW manual gearboxes are more plentiful in the EU than in the U.S.

The Nissan CD009 6-speed (I think it is a certain range of model years that are the best) have come up in recent years as an excellent stout alternative themselves with a much more DIY/custom approach.... but then with a 1UZ engine all of these transmission options are "custom" swaps to varying degrees.

I'm with the others in this thread who recommend you go right for the particular transmission and clutch setup that best supports your end goal rather than just having a manual in the short term. You don't need the most expensive option of those available to choose from but if you are without a doubt going to build for forced induction I think you should start with one of the stronger, turbo-capable transmissions and skip the W58 or Nissan KA24 transmission.

This is very informative, I have my heart set on a R154 transmission swap on my 1UZ... would love to go FI, but lets be real, it would probably be easier and more cost effective to swap to a 1j/2j turbo for more power. In the meantime making it a funner or more driver engaged car would be nice...

That’s kind of my point. But in my view, why spend the extra money on the stronger R154 when W58s are usually half the price? So you don’t need to swap the transmission later? You’re already going to have to swap the engine, so is the transmission swap truly an obstacle?

If someone is that concerned about having to do a transmission swap twice then they probably would never go through with an engine swap at all.

The only scenario where I would agree with it is if you’re sure, dead certain, that you’re going to do your eventual swap. In this way you’re not wasting money, which I understand. But, most guys aren’t gonna do the swap so just get the cheaper and better feeling transmission, and call it a day. That’s my two cents.

Nick

Which t56 is best for 1uz swap into sc400?

GTO or Fbody?

the one shown is from a gto and has a longer input shaft apparently and has the tripod.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...4e2bfcd1d.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...f53b2545c.jpeg