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2jz valve cover gasket time.

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Old 03-30-19, 05:03 PM
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rarebmx4me
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Default 2jz valve cover gasket time.

Doing valve cover gaskets on my 97 SC300 the kit did not come with a spark plug trey gaskets the ones that i have are very brittle and I'm missing a few little pieces l can space out what i got so that they're even. how important are these?

Old 04-01-19, 12:21 AM
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KahnBB6
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You can get away with not replacing them if they're still in good shape but I'd recommend replacing them if you're already going to the trouble of doing your valve cover gaskets.

For 1992-1997 2JZ-GE Non-VVT-i's:

Valve cover gasket Intake Side -- 11213-46020
Valve cover gasket Exhaust Side -- 11214-46011

And those gaskets that go onto the spark plug cover:
"Gasket, Cylinder Head Cover No.3" -- 11229-46020 x1
"Gasket, Cylinder Head Cover No.5" -- 11249-46020 x2
"Gasket, Cylinder Block Side Cover" -- 11273-46010 x1
"Gasket, Cylinder Head Coner No.4" -- 11239-46020 x1
"Gasket, Cylinder Head Cover No.7" -- 11274-46010 x1



Also don't forget to pick up a tube of Toyota FIPG (Form In Place Gasket) to apply the very small amounts required in the TSRM just where your metal valve covers mate to the head surface and the very front camshaft caps. This is on either side of where the hump is on your valve covers. Once you apply the FIPG dabs you need to carefully but quickly get the valve covers seated down before the gasket making material starts to harden on you.

The TSRM shows the very specific spots where it wants those four dabs of FIPG.

Before you do that, get your new valve cover gaskets coated in a very thin film of engine oil and seat them into the valve covers first so you'll have them ready to go.

Also, if your rubber PCV grommet is hard and cracking this is an excellent time to replace it as well. Usually they pop right out but if yours is petrified it may require some VERY careful fine cutting of it to get it out. You don't want to cut into or gouge the metal of your valve cover or lose chunks of it inside the internal baffle. Have some fine tweezers and fine picking/grabbing tools handy if necessary.

Last edited by KahnBB6; 04-01-19 at 12:36 AM.
Old 04-24-19, 07:57 PM
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rarebmx4me
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got it done , thanks for the assistance ..
next , no speedometer ….what speed sensor and where's it located
Old 04-24-19, 10:45 PM
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Glad to help!

For your speedometer, have you tried lightly slapping the dash above the instrument cluster to see if the speedometer will bounce back to live while you are driving?

Not TOO hard but a one or two or five slaps will do it if the gauge motor is just stuck.

If it is stuck then you need to either send your cluster in for service with Tanin Auto Electronix or you can alternatively buy an entirely reconditioned cluster from them. They may do a mail back core exchange for this, not sure. If your SC is an automatic then this is a good option. If you have a 5-speed then you would have to remove the cluster, package it very well according to their instructions, ship it to them, and wait on the repair until they send it back to you. You don't want to turn on the car without a cluster in it or else you'll have to do a kind of electrical wire tap dance with the diagnostic port to reset the airbag warning light.

If it is not your speedometer motor sticking then it will be your transmission VSS sensor. On W58 5-speeds it is located near the rear of the transmission but they rarely ever go bad. On A340E automatics I am not familiar with the VSS sensor location but it may also be near the rear of the transmission.
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