94 SC300 Denso Fuel pump died less than 15k mi.
10-15-18, 02:11 PM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
94 SC300 Denso Fuel pump died less than 15k mi.
I replaced my fuel pump 1.5 yrs / 15k miles ago with a new Denso $150.00 fuel pump.
Now the fuel pump is bad again? Engine starts when I spray in the intake.
So, is the Lexus pump from the dealership the way to go?
Anyone else run into this?
Thanks
Now the fuel pump is bad again? Engine starts when I spray in the intake.
So, is the Lexus pump from the dealership the way to go?
Anyone else run into this?
Thanks
10-16-18, 01:06 AM
#2
If you used the Denso #950-0109 fuel pump kit then that will be exactly the same thing the dealership will sell you... just at a significantly higher price.
I doubt it is your fuel pump after only 15k miles of use. The Denso OEM pumps last an extremely long time.
When you spray the intake I am assuming that the engine only runs for a brief time before dying again?
Have you run the fuel pump bypass to make sure your fuel ECU isn't the issue?
To do this, open the underhood diagnostic port and jumper or use a thick paper clip between pins FN and +B and then start the car. If there is no change then your fuel ECU is not the issue. If the car starts right up then it probably is.
I doubt it is your fuel pump after only 15k miles of use. The Denso OEM pumps last an extremely long time.
When you spray the intake I am assuming that the engine only runs for a brief time before dying again?
Have you run the fuel pump bypass to make sure your fuel ECU isn't the issue?
To do this, open the underhood diagnostic port and jumper or use a thick paper clip between pins FN and +B and then start the car. If there is no change then your fuel ECU is not the issue. If the car starts right up then it probably is.
10-17-18, 11:25 AM
#6
Just bypass the Fuel ECU for no further issues. I bypassed about a year ago with no thus far.
10-18-18, 11:23 PM
#7
Installing a new or known good Fuel ECU will cure the issue. If you can locate a good one then that will be the easiest fix. If you do happen to choose the alternative Fuel ECU bypass (the "+12V Mod") it's best to do so with a relay for safety so that the pump shuts off whenever the factory EFI Main circuit is off.
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10-22-18, 11:49 AM
#8
Driver
Thread Starter
Is there a way to test the "Fuel Pump Control Module Relay" ??????
I purchased a used one from a dealer that said its been tested
and in good working order. The seller sells lots of these, and has others just like it for sale.
Installed new part, ran for 5 seconds then quit.
Still starts and runs fine when I jumper +b & fp. Could it be anything else other than the fuel pump module?
Thanks!
I purchased a used one from a dealer that said its been tested
and in good working order. The seller sells lots of these, and has others just like it for sale.
Installed new part, ran for 5 seconds then quit.
Still starts and runs fine when I jumper +b & fp. Could it be anything else other than the fuel pump module?
Thanks!
10-24-18, 07:37 AM
#13
Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks for the links. Paid $354 / $372 shipped from discount parts monster. Just a little under Pembroke Pines Trademotion.
My dealer wanted $590. But I never buy anything there...........
Looks like Amayama is $212 / from Japan. Not sure its OEM though?
Part # 89570-24010
I didnt test mine, but from everything I have read, its the only thing it could be. Fingers crossed. LOL LOL
And thanks again KahnBB6 for all the help! Much appreciated!
My dealer wanted $590. But I never buy anything there...........
Looks like Amayama is $212 / from Japan. Not sure its OEM though?
Part # 89570-24010
I didnt test mine, but from everything I have read, its the only thing it could be. Fingers crossed. LOL LOL
And thanks again KahnBB6 for all the help! Much appreciated!
10-31-18, 12:45 PM
#15
Do you mean you plugged in a new pump or that you plugged in a new (or used) Fuel ECU?
Sorry, mentally catching up. It was a replacement Fuel ECU that you bought.
I would do the fuel ecu bypass test and see what that does with your new ecu. Then I would remove it and test the pins with a multimeter as laid out in the TSRM pages above.
If plugging this one in results in still no solving of the issue.... or different symptoms altogether... then you’ve got to test it and confirm whether it’s doing what it should or not.
It is not a complicated electrical circuit or computer but if it’s a reconditioned unit the company that did that reconditioning needed to make sure it checks out electrically.
If it doesn’t I would return it for another one :/
Sorry, mentally catching up. It was a replacement Fuel ECU that you bought.
I would do the fuel ecu bypass test and see what that does with your new ecu. Then I would remove it and test the pins with a multimeter as laid out in the TSRM pages above.
If plugging this one in results in still no solving of the issue.... or different symptoms altogether... then you’ve got to test it and confirm whether it’s doing what it should or not.
It is not a complicated electrical circuit or computer but if it’s a reconditioned unit the company that did that reconditioning needed to make sure it checks out electrically.
If it doesn’t I would return it for another one :/
Last edited by KahnBB6; 10-31-18 at 12:52 PM.