Help can't get car started after TT ecu upgrade
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Help can't get car started after TT ecu upgrade
just did this upgrade and I'm using the is300 coils with 660cc injectors and tuning with safc neo. I also have a 485lph walbro. However I cannot get the car started. I'm getting spark and gas. I'm getting way to much gas. I'll pull my plugs after a few test starts and they will be soaked with gas and black. Do I need to dial more gas out? I tried taking 35% & 40%out across the board and I do have it setup on pressure sensor 1in 1out. Am I missing something? I keep flooding the engine and then have to let everything dry before trying again.
Thanks for any help
Thanks for any help
Last edited by suprasoup; 10-09-18 at 08:31 AM.
#2
Driver
Thread Starter
Ok, so I have gone through the entire range of the map on the SAFC NEO and still no luck. I even tried pulling -50 and tried at 0 still no start and plugs continue to be black and covered in gas. I do have spark, gas, compression, oil pressure. On the SAFC NEO sensor check screen I can see it getting proper voltage for the tps and map and show it adjusting the output of the map. I cant figure out why its still getting to much gas. The car does try and start sometimes but it just wont fully kick over and just shoots out black smoke. Do I need to adjust the distributer in either direction to help with timing since the SAFC advances the timing if so which way should I rotate it? Does anyone have any recommended setting for SAFC NEO with 660cc injectors?
Thanks
Thanks
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
However I just realized that the JDM TT injectors are side feed so I can't use them. (Dang)
Last edited by suprasoup; 10-09-18 at 11:49 AM.
#5
Driver
Thread Starter
It sucks because I didn't want to have to spend more money on injectors when these 660cc's should work but I figured the same thing as far as isolating the problem since I have ran through a list of other things. I have checked the TPS/Map/Fuel Pump/Coils/Spark plug wires/Spark plugs gapped @ .030 I just completed the rebuild on the entire motor and this will be its first time starting up.
It has compression and oil pressure. All the connections have been triple verified and some haha. One thing I just thought
about is when I did first try and start the car I discovered the map input and output were tapped into the incorrect wires on the SAFC NEO maybe its possible the SAFC NEO sent a signal to the ecu that messed it up. When I get home from work I'm also going to check the power and ground wires to make sure they are in the correct order as far as which one is on the harness side and which is on the ecu side just incase those are off.
Another thought, could I be damaging the motor by trying to start it so many times and just dumping gas in it? because if that's the case I'm going to just bite the bullet and get the 440cc's just to be safe and get rid of the neo till I can get a standalone.
thanks
It has compression and oil pressure. All the connections have been triple verified and some haha. One thing I just thought
about is when I did first try and start the car I discovered the map input and output were tapped into the incorrect wires on the SAFC NEO maybe its possible the SAFC NEO sent a signal to the ecu that messed it up. When I get home from work I'm also going to check the power and ground wires to make sure they are in the correct order as far as which one is on the harness side and which is on the ecu side just incase those are off.
Another thought, could I be damaging the motor by trying to start it so many times and just dumping gas in it? because if that's the case I'm going to just bite the bullet and get the 440cc's just to be safe and get rid of the neo till I can get a standalone.
thanks
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
One more thing is I noticed the denso 660's I put in have a different spray nozzle than stock it has 1 large hole with a metal tip sticking out of it. Could this be a problem?
Thanks for your help Gerrb.
Last edited by suprasoup; 10-09-18 at 01:51 PM.
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#8
Super Moderator
iTrader: (34)
Spray nozzle doesn't matter . Injector designs and spray patterns differ. What is important is the amount of fuel that is actually sprayed that matters.
you can throw in the GE injectors but you will be lean and can't run on them .. but just to see if it will start yes .
you can throw in the GE injectors but you will be lean and can't run on them .. but just to see if it will start yes .
#9
Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks
#12
Driver
Thread Starter
So I grabbed some new 440cc injectors hoping it would fix the problem and yet the car is still getting to much gas. The things I have checked are the following-
is300 coils checked out and placed in correct order.
map sensor works and is getting 5v from ecu and outputing 2.5v with car off.
spark plugs and wires tested fine.
tested and adjusted tps per tsrm.
checked my wiring more times than i can count.
Any help is much appreciated.
tried 3 different igniters
checked all plugs for sensors
rebuilt ecu
rebuilt motor
12v mod 485 walbro works
the only thing i can really think it could be is the ecu. Any help would be very appreciated. I dont know what else could control the gas besides the ecu.
is300 coils checked out and placed in correct order.
map sensor works and is getting 5v from ecu and outputing 2.5v with car off.
spark plugs and wires tested fine.
tested and adjusted tps per tsrm.
checked my wiring more times than i can count.
Any help is much appreciated.
tried 3 different igniters
checked all plugs for sensors
rebuilt ecu
rebuilt motor
12v mod 485 walbro works
the only thing i can really think it could be is the ecu. Any help would be very appreciated. I dont know what else could control the gas besides the ecu.
#13
Driver
Thread Starter
I guess another question about the spark plugs. I just keep taking them out and brushing them with brake clean and reusing them is that ok or do they have to be replaced due to the fouling and carbon deposits?
thanks
(Bought new spark plugs did not help)
thanks
(Bought new spark plugs did not help)
Last edited by suprasoup; 10-15-18 at 02:28 PM.
#14
Driver
Thread Starter
Update:
I replaced the spark plugs it did not help, tested for spark again and still got it on all 6 plugs and still to much gas. I did reset the ecu and try starting it and was able to have it produce code 31 which is low maf voltage signal. Im assuming this applies to the MAP sensor since i no longer have a MAF.
1 thing I have noticed is when the ecu is powered on it sends 4.22v through the map sensor signal wire (pin 62) when un plugged and I get 4.99v on the power wire and a good ground on the ground wire. Is it normal for the ECU to be sending 4.22v through the MAP signal wire when the MAP is un plugged
I read another post where someone asked this question however in there case they had 4.99v on both signal and power wire and for them ended up being a bad MAP so maybe my ECU is dead if its not sending out the same volts as the power wire.
In the mean time Im stumped and any help is always appreciated.
thanks
I replaced the spark plugs it did not help, tested for spark again and still got it on all 6 plugs and still to much gas. I did reset the ecu and try starting it and was able to have it produce code 31 which is low maf voltage signal. Im assuming this applies to the MAP sensor since i no longer have a MAF.
1 thing I have noticed is when the ecu is powered on it sends 4.22v through the map sensor signal wire (pin 62) when un plugged and I get 4.99v on the power wire and a good ground on the ground wire. Is it normal for the ECU to be sending 4.22v through the MAP signal wire when the MAP is un plugged
I read another post where someone asked this question however in there case they had 4.99v on both signal and power wire and for them ended up being a bad MAP so maybe my ECU is dead if its not sending out the same volts as the power wire.
In the mean time Im stumped and any help is always appreciated.
thanks
#15
Driver
Thread Starter
Update:
Something that just hit me, I remember when I was trying to start the car a few times it would occasionally go into positive pressure on my boost gauge which it tapped to the intake manifold and another thing I noticed was the intake manifold was getting hot but the exhaust manifold was still cold.
Now why would there be positive pressure in the intake? Could it be that I put the timing belt on incorrectly causing the intake valves to be open and letting pressure in. I think this can really be the only thing allowing pressure to build up while trying to crank the car. This could be my problem, if it is then I will feel like an idiot but will be super happy to finally drive her. I've been building the car for a full year. I'm ready to enjoy it.
Something that just hit me, I remember when I was trying to start the car a few times it would occasionally go into positive pressure on my boost gauge which it tapped to the intake manifold and another thing I noticed was the intake manifold was getting hot but the exhaust manifold was still cold.
Now why would there be positive pressure in the intake? Could it be that I put the timing belt on incorrectly causing the intake valves to be open and letting pressure in. I think this can really be the only thing allowing pressure to build up while trying to crank the car. This could be my problem, if it is then I will feel like an idiot but will be super happy to finally drive her. I've been building the car for a full year. I'm ready to enjoy it.