suprasoup

Success!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I got it fixed it was the timing it was all out of wack. The distributor must have been installed incorrectly. I took it out cleaned it up and installed it correctly, the car fired right up.

Only thing that stumped me was the timing light was not flashing consistently it was random and sporadic. I tested the timing light on my other car and it was firing away like it should, so its not the timing light. I took the plugs out to clean them as they were fouled up so maybe that was the problem getting weak spark. I tested the resistance on the wires and the 3 of them check out (only 3 wires since I'm using IS300 coils) and they are NGK wires. Is it possible the insulation on the wires prevents the signal from coming through? I also slid the magnet part of the timing light up and down the wire with no change in the light.

When I get home I will try the light on 1 of the other 3 wires and I will grab one of my old spark plug wires laying around to test out. Any suggestions?

I'm just so happy I got it running. I just hope I did not cause any damage to the motor since it was flooding with gas.

If anyone has similar issues please check your timing.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I figured it was the wiring or something mechanical. your timing might be too advanced and not getting a consistent spark or something like that, try backing it off from what you can see if it is above 10 degrees.
bring it back down in that 8-10 range with the jumper in the diagnostic port (so you can set the base timing).

I used the ngk wires with the timing light without any issues. I would arrange it so the coil sat on cylinder 6, and the wire runs to cylinder 1, so its easy to hook onto the wire going to cylinder 1.
if you have it arranged the other way just make sure you test 1 or 6 whichever one the wire is on.
there is also usually an arrow on the timing light clip that goes around the plug wire, make sure the arrow is facing towards the plug and not the coil.
also its best to use a regular timing light, don't use the digital "dial back" timing light as those will read incorrectly unless you set it to 0 I think.. even then not sure.
I have a regular timing light for the 2jz that is just on off, it was like $35 on amazon. I have a digital dial back for my small block chevy which I need to set total timing but thats only cause its a mechanical setup.

what are your power goals? I would honestly really recommend just running the 440's till you get it all sorted out and need more injector.
If you don't really need more injector or if 550's would do it then try that later cause 660's will make it run noticeably worse I would imagine.
I already thought the 550's affected how it ran more than I liked but it did work pretty well majority of the time. the 440's were always spot on though.
you can hit 400whp with the 440's and probably 500whp with the 550's, remember the fuel regulator raises fuel pressure as boost rises and these ecu's are set to dump fuel at wide open throttle.
I am not sure I would shoot for 600hp on the stock ecu as a standalone would be alot better at that point so I guess what I am saying is.. consider going with the 550's if the 440's aren't enough later.