DaBwyan61

Hey all, lately been trying to read up on different turbos people have used and wanted second opinions before I jump ahead and buy the turbo itself. I've been wanting to get near 400hp at the crank (or to the wheels if the W58 is up for it for a little bit before I decide on R154 or CD009) with decent spool for some streetable fun.

I was originally thinking Holset HX35 w/ Bullseye power .70 a/r exhaust housing and 3" v-band. Although with some further reading every once in a while I come across a post where someone mentions an HX35 may not be the best option for good streetable use.

Other options I was looking at (although unsure of what a/r to shoot for):

BW S360
PTE 6262
- maybe - a driftmotion 60-1 or T04Z. Overall consensus from what I've read seems to be most people are happy with DM stuff for the price. but you may get what you pay for so who knows.

Any extra thoughts would be appreciated!

kartel876

Im using a Borg Warner S362 twin scroll .91AR on my NA-T 2jz SC300 i love it making around 435hp at the tires on a mild 14 psi. I also have a Marlin Crawler R154 for now. Ive driven a SC with the CD009 and i didnt like where the shifter was its a long trans and my arms are long too so it was awkward may give a T56 a try when the R154 lets go. But i daily drive the car now turbo spools up pretty fast and i dont always have to go into boost to ditch traffic.

DaBwyan61

That sounds pretty much right where I want to be, I'll look into one of those.

I found a good deal for a brand new S366 (S300SX3 PN 177275) with a .91/t4 hot side. Would it be a little more leggy than a S362 and/or a bit more overkill?

vipsoarer

What are your power goals for the future? The 177275 with the divided .91 will make a lot more power (800 hp +) than the 400 or so you are looking for right now. Remember the BW turbos are made for diesel applications so they sing at higher boost, but are a bit lazy down low. I have a 366 and love it, but its not a modern tech turbo like the s300 sxe.

If this is your first time turboing a car, I suggest getting a kit as all the parts should fit decently well together. Piecing together may save you some $$, but it can also cost you since not every manifold works with all turbos and sourcing downpipes sucks unless you can weld.

DaBwyan61

want to be at least in the mid-300's and aim to be 400's for a while.

I was considering a DM kit, but some people seem to say use a better turbo and wastegate. So I was looking at their kit you can order that doesn't come with a turbo and sourcing my own.

vipsoarer

Check out Powerhouse Racing's kit as comparison for the other side of the spectrum. It will be all top tier stuff and will cost accordingly. You'll definitely meet and exceed your goals with one of these, but be warned as most these kits are only half the equation. You'll need fueling and a way to control it on top of just the hardware.

My personal advice from experience: set your own goals for what you want with a set budget in mind. Don't get wrapped up in needing the best of the best because the advantages some parts bring aren't always pertinent to your goals/setup. Find someone's build in the build forum that is close to your goals and try to copy it or get a kit minus the turbo and pick up a nicer one. Just remember you can ALWAYS change out stuff later after you have a working setup if you find certain parts aren't meeting your expectations.

DaBwyan61

Here's my build thread I started last week that details what parts & goals I had in mind so far:

2JankyZ build thread

vipsoarer

Looks pretty good so far. Dont forget supporting mods...brakes in good shape, suspension too. Clutch/flywheel/pressure plate. etc.

One thing that has helped me a ton was to keep a detailed spreadsheet of my receipts, the price i paid along with the part numbers and where i purchased from. Insurance gave me agreed upon value due to this, so thats a plus. The other thing is if you need to fix something or replace a broken part, you know exactly the part you need and where you got it from.

Other things to keep in mind while building your plans:
What exhaust (supra or sc fit)? What downpipe? Thought about cooling upgrades (radiator, new fan clutch)? You might have to get a bit clever with the A/C wiring if you plan to keep it. A couple of relays will fix that. Keep in mind, the GTE vvti ecu doesnt like when you vent blow off valves to atmosphere during shifts so another thing to consider with the version of Tial BOV you pick.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yes on both counts. S366 is for making more power than you are talking about, and will have more lag.
I would suggest a 60-62mm range, the S362 is the better choice if you plan to shoot for some more power later.
sometimes you can't plan too far ahead in the future or your current setup will be bad, and you can always find a s366 when the time comes cause everyone knows someone that has one for a good deal for some reason.

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

DaBwyan61

Way ahead of you there (sort of)

The NA-T sheet is in there somewhere, since the whole file was originally started to try and keep track of a 1JZ swap. Covers most basic things I think