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I致e searched and searched and I知 at my wit痴 end. I致e removed every bolt on the intake y pipe and it痴 loose, but I can稚 figure out how to remove the plastic egr assembly from the metal fitting. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
I致e searched and searched and I知 at my wit痴 end. I致e removed every bolt on the intake y pipe and it痴 loose, but I can稚 figure out how to remove the plastic egr assembly from the big metal fitting. It痴 almost impossible to remove the metal fitting because there痴 a bolt on the back of it and I知 sure that痴 not what everyone does. That痴 the only thing keeping the intake from coming off. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
There is an EGR pipe that connects to the head. There are two bolts that hold it on and it really sucks trying to get to them the first time that you do it.
I used a universal joint and move the secondary fuse box.
If you follow the pipe back there are two bolts holding it on. Use a 1/4" ratchet maybe an extension and/or a swivel to remove the top bolt and loosen the bottom bolt. That will allow you to push the pipe out of the egr assembly.
In case you can't get to the bolts with extensions/swivels you will probably have to remove some of the metal lines bolted to the mid section of the intake manifold.
Oh boy... I have done that removal and re-installation so many times. I also wish there were an easier way. That video link above is very good.
Aside, just in case anyone reading needs to know, you do not actually need to remove the Y-Manifold in order to change out spark plugs and ignition wires. There is enough room once the throttle body is removed and the lower dowels that the throttle body slides onto are removed. However the pesky coolant bypass hose that connects to the throttle body still has to be disconnected in order to do only that much. See instructions below.
OP, do you have a copy of the 1992-1997 SC300 TSRM? It will be very helpful for you when doing this.
The gist of it is:
0) Make sure the engine is cold after several hours or leaving it overnight. Or drain the coolant if you have to. This is because of the heat and pressure of the coolant in the system which you will be encountering in later steps. It will not be good if the engine is hot and you attempt to remove a coolant bypass hose while the coolant inside it is very hot and pressurized at near operating temperature.
1) Remove various little parts on and surrounding the TPS sensor
2) Note location (and photograph) the vacuum hose arrangement before disconnecting them. You should be able to get the throttle body to freely move a bit back and forth but the coolant bypass hose is going to hold it in place.
3) Put both a blue disposable shop towel and a rag underneath the rubber hose under the Y-Manifold. You want to block any coolant from getting into the spark plug galley by letting the shop towel and rag absorb any of it.
4) Use some long needle nose pliers intended to be used on automotive tension clamp holding the coolant bypass hose in place. Harbor Freight or Autozone should have these. A little bend at the end angles them perfectly to de-tension the clamps. Pull back that clamp onto the hose.
5) Pull the hose back from the coolant pipe on the throttle body. Some coolant will come out but hopefully not much if the engine is totally cold (or drained of coolant).
6) Remove the throttle body. It's okay to leave one of the cables connected. Just carefully set it aside. Note that it can still contain coolant that will leak out. Put a rag underneath the throttle body's coolant pipe also.
7) Now to remove the EGR valve BEFORE removing the Y-manifold. The EGR PIPE is removed first. Refer to this post where I show how to set up an ideal socket wrench extension arrangement to get to the lower bolts on the cylinder head. It is a LONG extension path but it works very well.
Remember that it's always best to hold off on using your torque wrench until you're ready to apply the required torque. Use a breaker bar or standard socket wrench for all general loosening and screwing down before you'd need to apply TSRM specified torque.
Note that in this picture you can see that at the time it was taken I DID remove the EGR valve before removing the pipe. There is a way to do this but it is such a tedious PITA that the picture below represents the last time I ever did it. From then on I went for the pipe first, then the EGR valve afterward. Then reverse order for re-installation. I only recommend doing it this way now. At first it looks harder but it's actually much easier and more straightforward.
8) The big nut on the other end of the pipe needs to be loosened and pulled back. It needs a 32mm wrench. To put it back on you will need a 32mm "crows foot" socket extension adapter for your torque wrench. Use this link in order to recalculate the torque load correction for it after noting the TSRM's required torque for that nut:
The reason for recalculating the torque when using "Crow's Foot" socket extension or any socket extension adapter (pictured specifically below in two variants) is because when you offset the torque loading from the normal center socket area of your torque wrench the amount of torque applied changes slightly. So you want to account for this change to maintain accurate torque as required by the Lexus/Toyota factory service manual for whatever bolt or nut you're torquing down.
Please note that this DOES NOT apply to normal socket extensions or flexible extensions as those all still channel the torque from the normal center of the torque wrench's 3/8" or 1/2" drive. This only has to do with using an off-set torque adapter.
Examples look like this. The top one is a "Crows Foot" adapter. The lower one is a standard "torque adapter". They are only needed when you can't get a torque wrench onto something normally due to tight confines.
9) Now you should be able to remove the EGR valve after removing the two 10mm(?) nuts. Then you can slide it right off the little studs. Those studs take a 5mm socket to remove or tighten down. There is no torque figure. Just hand tighten them normally. No need to overdo it. However you should not need to remove them in the first place.
10) Loosen the bolts on the Y-Manifold and you can pull it off once you disconnect a couple more pesky to reach vacuum hoses. Note the location of those hoses or use your cellphone camera with a flash to remind yourself later during re-installation.
Also, it's a good idea to run some carb and choke cleaner through the EGR valve and EGR pipe before reinstalling both. Also the Y-manifold EGR passage can have carbon buildup. You can use an EGR cleaning flex drill bit but this will only clean part of the passage. Toyota offers no way in the manual to FULLY clean the Y-manifold EGR passage. This is a DIY writeup I've long intended to do but I haven't had a chance to just yet. It involves removing a freeze plug on the Y-manifold to get to the internal crossover pipe, clean THAT out directly with carb & choke cleaner and an EGR cleaning tool... and then replacing the hole with a new aftermarket Dorman steel freeze plug in the correct size (which I measured and noted in my research).
You probably won't need to do this but on the rare chance that a blocked Y-Manifold EGR path is one of your issues, OP, my research on this to date is located here:
Thank you so much for the long write-up. I知 going NA-T on my SC300 and I知 trying to pull the head off to install a head gasket and ARP studs, but I haven稚 been able to get the y-pipe off for the life of me.
^^ Welcome. Everyone above covered the important hints. It's a tedious process but not terrible once you know how. Good luck soon with the head gasket and stud swap
06-20-18, 12:00 PM
I知 bewildered: how to remove 2jzge intake y-pipe
