Give list of manual transmissions that fit 2JZ
02-18-18, 09:04 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Give list of manual transmissions that fit 2JZ
Hello all,
I have a Auto 1992 SC300, can you give an input of a list of all Manuel trannies-pros and cons (price wise/ issues etc.) that will fit the 2JZ engine. Include trannies that require plate adapters (350z tranny etc.)
I’m a bit new to the world of 2JZ so if you can also say the tranny the car comes from as well as the tranny code number if you can.
please give a I lot of details, I want to see all the options.
Much thanks in advance.
I have a Auto 1992 SC300, can you give an input of a list of all Manuel trannies-pros and cons (price wise/ issues etc.) that will fit the 2JZ engine. Include trannies that require plate adapters (350z tranny etc.)
I’m a bit new to the world of 2JZ so if you can also say the tranny the car comes from as well as the tranny code number if you can.
please give a I lot of details, I want to see all the options.
Much thanks in advance.
02-21-18, 04:11 PM
#2
^^ This.
A short and incomplete list with the highlights is:
Purpose used for turbo applications:
Getrag-Toyota V160 and V161 6-speed -- extremely stout, extremely expensive, very in demand, parts availability currently in limbo after Getrag discontinued support which has fallen partly to the aftermarket when possible. Requires a 3.133 or 3.266 rear end ratio. Known to handle 1000+ whp. Factory 2JZ transmission.
Aisin-Toyota R154 5-speed -- stout and built for turbo, more stout when built with Marlin Crawler and Driftmotion upgrade parts. Some internal pressure issues above 500whp with all but the very last generations of them. Best with a a 3.76 or 3.92 rear end ratio. Will handle up to 750whp. 3rd gear is a weak point at very high power levels. Best if used at higher power levels with a twin disc or triple disc clutch kit with a movement change. Factory 1JZ/2JZ transmission. Older top-loader extension housing versions and later "tripod" versions exist. Versions are found in the MKIII Supra Turbo 5-speeds as well as Toyota Soarers, Mark II's, Chasers, Crestas, Verossas and a few others.
Aisin AR-5 5-speed -- a variant of the R154 that can be converted to fit the 2JZ and SC/Soarer. The common variant that is desired is the type that came in the Pontiac Solstice and Saturn Sky (both turbo and non-turbo should use the same AR-5). Driftmotion and I believe CX Racing sells conversion parts for these. Requires a new input shaft, 1JZ bellhousing and several other changes to fit.
Tremec Magnum 6-speed w/Joel Grannas installation kit. Possibly stronger than the already strong V160. Factory rated at a *constant* minimum of 700 ft-lbs of torque. Not as expensive as the V160.
Nissan CD009 6-speed. Adaptation kits are available but I am not familiar with them. These are from the 350/370Z and G coupes/sedans. Said to be strong but not as elegant to install as the other three above. Clutch and flywheel options should involve some extra homework.
Fit but not so desirable for turbo:
Aisin-Toyota W58 5-speed. Very reliable transmission for NA use. Not designed for turbo and will not last forever with one. Otherwise a very good factory 2JZ transmission. Very commonly used to convert 1992-1997 SC400's to manual with great reliability against the 250-260hp V8.
Aisin-Toyota W55 5-speed. Like a W58 but with significantly weaker internals. NOT recommended for turbo use at all. Commonly found in IS300 5-speed M/T applications.
Manual transmissions being evaluated for use with 2JZ's but not yet fully vetted in the Supra/SC community:
Getrag 420G 6-speed. Commonly found in European M3's. Stout transmission but completely NON-servicable. Adaptor kits exist but there are some issues. There is a thread detailing the efforts to make this one work in a thread on SupraForums but I don't think the jury is completely out yet as to whether it is going to be an additional long term common option for 2JZ owners.
I am sure there are a few others but those are the major ones. Hope this helps!
A short and incomplete list with the highlights is:
Purpose used for turbo applications:
Getrag-Toyota V160 and V161 6-speed -- extremely stout, extremely expensive, very in demand, parts availability currently in limbo after Getrag discontinued support which has fallen partly to the aftermarket when possible. Requires a 3.133 or 3.266 rear end ratio. Known to handle 1000+ whp. Factory 2JZ transmission.
Aisin-Toyota R154 5-speed -- stout and built for turbo, more stout when built with Marlin Crawler and Driftmotion upgrade parts. Some internal pressure issues above 500whp with all but the very last generations of them. Best with a a 3.76 or 3.92 rear end ratio. Will handle up to 750whp. 3rd gear is a weak point at very high power levels. Best if used at higher power levels with a twin disc or triple disc clutch kit with a movement change. Factory 1JZ/2JZ transmission. Older top-loader extension housing versions and later "tripod" versions exist. Versions are found in the MKIII Supra Turbo 5-speeds as well as Toyota Soarers, Mark II's, Chasers, Crestas, Verossas and a few others.
Aisin AR-5 5-speed -- a variant of the R154 that can be converted to fit the 2JZ and SC/Soarer. The common variant that is desired is the type that came in the Pontiac Solstice and Saturn Sky (both turbo and non-turbo should use the same AR-5). Driftmotion and I believe CX Racing sells conversion parts for these. Requires a new input shaft, 1JZ bellhousing and several other changes to fit.
Tremec Magnum 6-speed w/Joel Grannas installation kit. Possibly stronger than the already strong V160. Factory rated at a *constant* minimum of 700 ft-lbs of torque. Not as expensive as the V160.
Nissan CD009 6-speed. Adaptation kits are available but I am not familiar with them. These are from the 350/370Z and G coupes/sedans. Said to be strong but not as elegant to install as the other three above. Clutch and flywheel options should involve some extra homework.
Fit but not so desirable for turbo:
Aisin-Toyota W58 5-speed. Very reliable transmission for NA use. Not designed for turbo and will not last forever with one. Otherwise a very good factory 2JZ transmission. Very commonly used to convert 1992-1997 SC400's to manual with great reliability against the 250-260hp V8.
Aisin-Toyota W55 5-speed. Like a W58 but with significantly weaker internals. NOT recommended for turbo use at all. Commonly found in IS300 5-speed M/T applications.
Manual transmissions being evaluated for use with 2JZ's but not yet fully vetted in the Supra/SC community:
Getrag 420G 6-speed. Commonly found in European M3's. Stout transmission but completely NON-servicable. Adaptor kits exist but there are some issues. There is a thread detailing the efforts to make this one work in a thread on SupraForums but I don't think the jury is completely out yet as to whether it is going to be an additional long term common option for 2JZ owners.
I am sure there are a few others but those are the major ones. Hope this helps!
Last edited by KahnBB6; 02-22-18 at 02:23 AM. Reason: updated with Aisin AR-5 info
The following 3 users liked this post by KahnBB6:
02-21-18, 07:28 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
^^ This.
A short and incomplete list with the highlights is:
Purpose used for turbo applications:
Getrag-Toyota V160 and V161 6-speed -- extremely stout, extremely expensive, very in demand, parts availability currently in limbo after Getrag discontinued support which has fallen partly to the aftermarket when possible. Requires a 3.133 or 3.266 rear end ratio. Known to handle 1000+ whp. Factory 2JZ transmission.
Aisin-Toyota R154 5-speed -- stout and built for turbo, more stout when built with Marlin Crawler and Driftmotion upgrade parts. Some internal pressure issues above 500whp with all but the very last generations of them. Best with a a 3.76 or 3.92 rear end ratio. Will handle up to 750whp. 3rd gear is a weak point at very high power levels. Best if used at higher power levels with a twin disc or triple disc clutch kit with a movement change. Factory 1JZ/2JZ transmission.
Tremec Magnum 6-speed w/Joel Grannas installation kit. Possibly stronger than the already strong V160. Factory rated at a *constant* minimum of 700 ft-lbs of torque. Not as expensive as the V160.
Nissan CD009 6-speed. Adaptation kits are available but I am not familiar with them. These are from the 350/370Z and G coupes/sedans. Said to be strong but not as elegant to install as the other three above. Clutch and flywheel options should involve some extra homework.
Fit but not so desirable for turbo:
Aisin-Toyota W58 5-speed. Very reliable transmission for NA use. Not designed for turbo and will not last forever with one. Otherwise a very good factory 2JZ transmission. Very commonly used to convert 1992-1997 SC400's to manual with great reliability against the 250-260hp V8.
Aisin-Toyota W55 5-speed. Like a W58 but with significantly weaker internals. NOT recommended for turbo use at all. Commonly found in IS300 5-speed M/T applications.
Manual transmissions being evaluated for use with 2JZ's but not yet fully vetted in the Supra/SC community:
Getrag 420G 6-speed. Commonly found in European M3's. Stout transmission but completely NON-servicable. Adaptor kits exist but there are some issues. There is a thread detailing the efforts to make this one work in a thread on SupraForums but I don't think the jury is completely out yet as to whether it is going to be an additional long term common option for 2JZ owners.
I am sure there are a few others but those are the major ones. Hope this helps!
A short and incomplete list with the highlights is:
Purpose used for turbo applications:
Getrag-Toyota V160 and V161 6-speed -- extremely stout, extremely expensive, very in demand, parts availability currently in limbo after Getrag discontinued support which has fallen partly to the aftermarket when possible. Requires a 3.133 or 3.266 rear end ratio. Known to handle 1000+ whp. Factory 2JZ transmission.
Aisin-Toyota R154 5-speed -- stout and built for turbo, more stout when built with Marlin Crawler and Driftmotion upgrade parts. Some internal pressure issues above 500whp with all but the very last generations of them. Best with a a 3.76 or 3.92 rear end ratio. Will handle up to 750whp. 3rd gear is a weak point at very high power levels. Best if used at higher power levels with a twin disc or triple disc clutch kit with a movement change. Factory 1JZ/2JZ transmission.
Tremec Magnum 6-speed w/Joel Grannas installation kit. Possibly stronger than the already strong V160. Factory rated at a *constant* minimum of 700 ft-lbs of torque. Not as expensive as the V160.
Nissan CD009 6-speed. Adaptation kits are available but I am not familiar with them. These are from the 350/370Z and G coupes/sedans. Said to be strong but not as elegant to install as the other three above. Clutch and flywheel options should involve some extra homework.
Fit but not so desirable for turbo:
Aisin-Toyota W58 5-speed. Very reliable transmission for NA use. Not designed for turbo and will not last forever with one. Otherwise a very good factory 2JZ transmission. Very commonly used to convert 1992-1997 SC400's to manual with great reliability against the 250-260hp V8.
Aisin-Toyota W55 5-speed. Like a W58 but with significantly weaker internals. NOT recommended for turbo use at all. Commonly found in IS300 5-speed M/T applications.
Manual transmissions being evaluated for use with 2JZ's but not yet fully vetted in the Supra/SC community:
Getrag 420G 6-speed. Commonly found in European M3's. Stout transmission but completely NON-servicable. Adaptor kits exist but there are some issues. There is a thread detailing the efforts to make this one work in a thread on SupraForums but I don't think the jury is completely out yet as to whether it is going to be an additional long term common option for 2JZ owners.
I am sure there are a few others but those are the major ones. Hope this helps!
02-22-18, 02:35 AM
#4
^^ In that case you can do well with an SC300 or MKIV Supra W58. Keep your factory auto rear diff (4.27), use a Yellowbox speedo corrector, find an Cali-spec 1992-1994 M/T ECU for your 1992 model year (for smog compliance) and focus on setting up the rest of your car. A true LSD is highly recommended as are some choice of properly side bolstered seats and suspension work. I recommend you upgrade the front brakes to 95-00 LS400 calipers and run only 255mm wide rear tires with an NA engine. It's a setup that works very well.
You will want an SC300 M/T ECU since you're in CA but you only need a Cali-Spec 1992-1994 M/T ECU if your 1992 SC300 Auto is a Cali-Emission car. If you have a Federal Automatic then you can just get a Federal 1992-1994 SC300 M/T ECU. Check the ECU part number listing below to be sure of which ones that will be right for your SC:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...s-by-year.html
You will want an SC300 M/T ECU since you're in CA but you only need a Cali-Spec 1992-1994 M/T ECU if your 1992 SC300 Auto is a Cali-Emission car. If you have a Federal Automatic then you can just get a Federal 1992-1994 SC300 M/T ECU. Check the ECU part number listing below to be sure of which ones that will be right for your SC:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...s-by-year.html
02-22-18, 06:49 AM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thank you this helps me out a lot. I’m very new to the Lexus world. Yea I definitely want to keep it smog legal, I see that keeping the same Ecu would give me automatic check engine codes, wouldn’t want that. A friend told me that I could weld the rear diff, I know it wouldn’t be true LSD, but I believe it should get the job done, give me your thoughts on this.
Also, what is a yellow box Speedo corrector? Is it to calibrate the speedometer?
any recommendations where to purchase this stuff?
I appreciate all your help!
Also, what is a yellow box Speedo corrector? Is it to calibrate the speedometer?
any recommendations where to purchase this stuff?
I appreciate all your help!
02-22-18, 05:26 PM
#6
^^ You would probably get a CEL light due to the missing automatic transmission. That alone is enough to fail a smog test. The A/T ECU also pre-determines the shift logic and emissions are accounted for in that way whereas the M/T ECUs are programmed to account for the unpredictability of when the driver will change gears or even maintain a given engine speed. Again, if your SC300 has Cali-Spec Emissions then you'll need a Cali-Spec M/T ECU for the same compatible years. If it's a Federal Emission car then you can/should use a Federal M/T ECU for the correct year.
Regarding diff welding... it's more common with a weekend drift car. Personally I've never been a fan of diff welding due to how much extra stress is put on the driveline. Keep in mind some of that stress will probably go back into the transmission over time. LSD's for these cars are not cheap no matter how you cut it but they are completely worth the money and effort to get installed in my opinion. One of the biggest selling points and value propositions of the FR-S/GT86/BRZ is the standard Torsen LSD.
A Torsen LSD for the SC is pricey and hard to find. A Kaaz 2-way Quiet is much easier to find but just as expensive and actually a bit better suited for drift duty than the 1.5-Way Torsen which is more of a lifetime daily driver performance part. That said, if you can find a Torsen then go for it. But staying NA you should just keep the 4.272:1 final drive ratio which in my experience has been fine for smog. The stock final drive ratio for an SC300 5-speed (all years) is 4.083:1. I personally prefer the 4.27 for performance driving, mountain driving and daily driving but the 4.08 is slightly more sedate.
The Yellr YellowBox is a three-wire VSS interrupt device that will, when calibrated by using a GPS device to tell you your true speed when programming it, modify the pulses coming from the transmission's VSS sensor and report a speed-accurate signal to the speedometer on your cluster. Look up "Yellr Yellowbox" in Google and you can buy directly from their website. Also, specify when ordering that you want the SC300/MKIV specific plug-and-play harness that can be purchased with the Yellowbox. It is made specifically for our cars. I did a DIY writeup with pictures on how to install that in my "4.08 to 4.27 gearset swap" thread.
For new LSD's there are many vendors out there who can get you what you want. Driftmotion is the best place to purchase the SC/MKIV 200mm diff rebuild kits. If you want to find a Torsen LSD the best thing to do is check the CL and especially SupraForums classifieds EVERY DAY until you find one that comes up for sale and then jump on it when you have a chance. Always make sure the seller of a Torsen visually verifies that there is one inside of the pumpkin as that is the only way to be sure due to how a Torsen acts like an open diff unless it is under load (from the engine). Further, the Supra Twin Turbo Automatic had it optional for 97-98 so this is why the community verifies that a Torsen is truly present.
As for the M/T computer, once again I'd hit the CL SC300/400 classifieds. Also sometimes ebay. It is much easier to locate the Federal M/T ECU for any given model year.
Regarding diff welding... it's more common with a weekend drift car. Personally I've never been a fan of diff welding due to how much extra stress is put on the driveline. Keep in mind some of that stress will probably go back into the transmission over time. LSD's for these cars are not cheap no matter how you cut it but they are completely worth the money and effort to get installed in my opinion. One of the biggest selling points and value propositions of the FR-S/GT86/BRZ is the standard Torsen LSD.
A Torsen LSD for the SC is pricey and hard to find. A Kaaz 2-way Quiet is much easier to find but just as expensive and actually a bit better suited for drift duty than the 1.5-Way Torsen which is more of a lifetime daily driver performance part. That said, if you can find a Torsen then go for it. But staying NA you should just keep the 4.272:1 final drive ratio which in my experience has been fine for smog. The stock final drive ratio for an SC300 5-speed (all years) is 4.083:1. I personally prefer the 4.27 for performance driving, mountain driving and daily driving but the 4.08 is slightly more sedate.
The Yellr YellowBox is a three-wire VSS interrupt device that will, when calibrated by using a GPS device to tell you your true speed when programming it, modify the pulses coming from the transmission's VSS sensor and report a speed-accurate signal to the speedometer on your cluster. Look up "Yellr Yellowbox" in Google and you can buy directly from their website. Also, specify when ordering that you want the SC300/MKIV specific plug-and-play harness that can be purchased with the Yellowbox. It is made specifically for our cars. I did a DIY writeup with pictures on how to install that in my "4.08 to 4.27 gearset swap" thread.
For new LSD's there are many vendors out there who can get you what you want. Driftmotion is the best place to purchase the SC/MKIV 200mm diff rebuild kits. If you want to find a Torsen LSD the best thing to do is check the CL and especially SupraForums classifieds EVERY DAY until you find one that comes up for sale and then jump on it when you have a chance. Always make sure the seller of a Torsen visually verifies that there is one inside of the pumpkin as that is the only way to be sure due to how a Torsen acts like an open diff unless it is under load (from the engine). Further, the Supra Twin Turbo Automatic had it optional for 97-98 so this is why the community verifies that a Torsen is truly present.
As for the M/T computer, once again I'd hit the CL SC300/400 classifieds. Also sometimes ebay. It is much easier to locate the Federal M/T ECU for any given model year.
03-02-18, 06:16 AM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Out of curiosity, can I rebuild the w58 to make it Strong enough to handle turbo?
I actually might get a 1989 R154 tranny from a Toyota Supra though
I actually might get a 1989 R154 tranny from a Toyota Supra though
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