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Damage on block mating surface

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Old 12-08-17, 05:00 AM   #16
lexforlife
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With a 65k motor ,in our world we call this a virgin motor. For your power goals which I consider modest, I wouldn't bother with doing any bottomend work . When I boosted mine in 2007 I had 92k on block , today same motor is at 146k and running the 600rwhp on 93oct..

If one can avoid doing anything other than OEM I recommend OEM as I've seen countless built motors here in south Florida (which south Florida seems to be the boosting capital as down here they'll throw a turbo on a lawnmower , lol) if not done right they smoke and have excessive blow by . Ive seen spun bearings due to incorrect clearances etc. unless you are planning to run turbo like the new gen2 6266 dbb or 6466which are fast spooling and quick torque making , I personally would stay all OEM .
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Old 12-08-17, 06:45 AM   #17
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Look up cylinder ridge reamer....
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Old 12-08-17, 07:47 AM   #18
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Update: I got the pistons out did not need a ridge reamer as there actually was no lip on any of the cylinder walls it simply wiped off. Bearings I think look good but im no pro at this, looks like there is a coating on the bearings like a white film is this normal. Do yall think the bearings look good?
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Last edited by suprasoup; 12-08-17 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 12-08-17, 08:43 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lexforlife View Post
With a 65k motor ,in our world we call this a virgin motor. For your power goals which I consider modest, I wouldn't bother with doing any bottomend work . When I boosted mine in 2007 I had 92k on block , today same motor is at 146k and running the 600rwhp on 93oct..

If one can avoid doing anything other than OEM I recommend OEM as I've seen countless built motors here in south Florida (which south Florida seems to be the boosting capital as down here they'll throw a turbo on a lawnmower , lol) if not done right they smoke and have excessive blow by . Ive seen spun bearings due to incorrect clearances etc. unless you are planning to run turbo like the new gen2 6266 dbb or 6466which are fast spooling and quick torque making , I personally would stay all OEM .
Ok so I have to remove the bottom end to get it decked (Correct me if I'm wrong).
So since I would have the crank out already you would still recommend not touching it for a polish and use new oem bearings vs ACL or other aftermarket bearings correct? You cannot re-use bearings/ you would not want to re-use old bearings correct?
What about thrust washers do those need to be replaced or can I re-use?
Do you recommend doing the hone and new rings or probably good to go since looks like this motor has not seen any abuse?
Should I replace the rings even if I do not do the hone?
I do not see any scratches/scores on the crank so far and still look pretty shiny not mirror finish but close.

Thanks for the help.

Last edited by suprasoup; 12-08-17 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 12-08-17, 10:30 AM   #20
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What does the underside of the head look like? if the block looks like that I would think the head looks worse. If you have to deck the head and the block then you will have tighter tolerances and you should use a tt headgasket and compression will still be high with ge pistons which can be fine if you have a good tune or e85, but still be cautious in the future if you are using a bigger cam etc.. I would almost say just use that money to find another block as all those little parts will add up in time and an oem block will meet your power goals.
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Old 12-08-17, 11:17 AM   #21
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Quote:
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What does the underside of the head look like? if the block looks like that I would think the head looks worse. If you have to deck the head and the block then you will have tighter tolerances and you should use a tt headgasket and compression will still be high with ge pistons which can be fine if you have a good tune or e85, but still be cautious in the future if you are using a bigger cam etc.. I would almost say just use that money to find another block as all those little parts will add up in time and an oem block will meet your power goals.
So I have not disassembled the head yet but I took a look at it last night and I cannot see any visible damage just stuck on gasket material. I do not see any corrosion like on the block. Maybe I can get away with not having to do anything to the head, I will send it to the machine shop to check though.
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Old 12-08-17, 11:19 AM   #22
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I did some research into the bearings and understand now why oem is best due to tolerances and not having to do anything to the crank like I would if I went aftermarket. So I will be going OEM bearings.
Do I need new piston rings if I do not hone the cylinders?
If I'm lucky I will only have to deck the block and polish the crankshaft.
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Old 12-09-17, 07:48 PM   #23
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The burn in that head sucks as you have the wrong plugs in it! Depth is too short!

At a glance if you intend to boost, (and I don't know this engine) but you should bore it and re-slug it. In addition have the rods align honed (new bolts too?). The wear patterns are pretty inconsistent too.

JM2C...
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Old 12-09-17, 08:51 PM   #24
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The burn in that head sucks as you have the wrong plugs in it! Depth is too short!

At a glance if you intend to boost, (and I don't know this engine) but you should bore it and re-slug it. In addition have the rods align honed (new bolts too?). The wear patterns are pretty inconsistent too.

JM2C...
haha the plugs are not threaded in that's why that look like that.
I think I'm going to have the head and block taken in and have them deck the block and hone it and have the head cleaned and checked for straightness (fingers crossed) and have crankshsft polished then I will put in oem bearings and some new rings and call it a day hopefully.

thanks for the feedback
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