charging system issue...
#1
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Location: OR
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charging system issue...
Hi there, new to the forums, although I admit that my lack of progress is what has brought me here.
I have a 92 sc300. I bought this thing basically in shambles. Had to repair the distrib o-ring which was weeping oil onto the pig connector for the alternator.
Replacing the battery I accidentally shorted the power line to the fusebox (cover missing of course) to the bolt holding the battery bracket onto the j rod.
After this the battery light started coming on for the start of the drive, then turn off after driving a bit. Bought a new battery, did the same thing, except after a day of that the battery light now stays on all the time. Also at this point the car hesitates when it starts, and runs like crap (all while the battery light is still on).
My battery at rest is undercharged (due to driving on it uncharged), and is at 11.4. When the car is on though, at idle, it reads 10.4, while the alternator while at idle is at 14.4ish.
Power steering pump is leaking significantly, and has been for a very long time based on the buildup, seemingly unrelated but I hear that a failing PSP may have something to do with a failing alternator. However I'm sure my shorting the power with the wrench is the catalyst for the problem.
Alternator fuse is fine, replaced it anyway, still same issue.
Anything else I can check before taking the alternator off and getting it bench tested? I have a sneaking suspicion that the alternator will be "fine"
Thanks in advance for at least reading
~R
I have a 92 sc300. I bought this thing basically in shambles. Had to repair the distrib o-ring which was weeping oil onto the pig connector for the alternator.
Replacing the battery I accidentally shorted the power line to the fusebox (cover missing of course) to the bolt holding the battery bracket onto the j rod.
After this the battery light started coming on for the start of the drive, then turn off after driving a bit. Bought a new battery, did the same thing, except after a day of that the battery light now stays on all the time. Also at this point the car hesitates when it starts, and runs like crap (all while the battery light is still on).
My battery at rest is undercharged (due to driving on it uncharged), and is at 11.4. When the car is on though, at idle, it reads 10.4, while the alternator while at idle is at 14.4ish.
Power steering pump is leaking significantly, and has been for a very long time based on the buildup, seemingly unrelated but I hear that a failing PSP may have something to do with a failing alternator. However I'm sure my shorting the power with the wrench is the catalyst for the problem.
Alternator fuse is fine, replaced it anyway, still same issue.
Anything else I can check before taking the alternator off and getting it bench tested? I have a sneaking suspicion that the alternator will be "fine"
Thanks in advance for at least reading
~R
#2
Lemme make sure I understand
Your saying that at idle, the voltage at the battery is 10.4V while the alt is reading 14.4?
Where are you measuring the 14.4V positive and negative points when reading the alt?
And yes, I attributed 2 'rebuilt' alternators that quickly went bad to a leaking PS pump
My replacement pump started to leak as well until I removed the vacuum lines that run to the switch on the side of it
Its not leaking anymore
Your saying that at idle, the voltage at the battery is 10.4V while the alt is reading 14.4?
Where are you measuring the 14.4V positive and negative points when reading the alt?
And yes, I attributed 2 'rebuilt' alternators that quickly went bad to a leaking PS pump
My replacement pump started to leak as well until I removed the vacuum lines that run to the switch on the side of it
Its not leaking anymore
#4
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iTrader: (5)
It does sound like the alternator. It's not worth it to replace the voltage regulator in the ones we have. A new reman from Denso is a good bet. The early early SC300's use the round alternator plug, not the oval style plug.
Also you don't need to jack up the car to remove and install an alternator on a 2JZ-GE. Once the fan is off the water pump everything can be accessed. Pick up a 12mm torque adapter from Mac Tools or Snap On ($30 from either company) to get the right torque to the mechanical fan bolts on the water pump when reinstalling it.
Also you don't need to jack up the car to remove and install an alternator on a 2JZ-GE. Once the fan is off the water pump everything can be accessed. Pick up a 12mm torque adapter from Mac Tools or Snap On ($30 from either company) to get the right torque to the mechanical fan bolts on the water pump when reinstalling it.
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