booga

iTrader: (1)

I have seen BFE DIY, which i will do eventually.
My air intake pipe is cracked where it connects to the intake manifold. (See picture where duct tape is)

This is causing stalling coming to a stop. Rough idle, sputtering, hesitation when accelerating. Sometimes I also get smoke coming out of the exhaust with strong smell of raw unburnt fuel.



I have seen the Air intake kits on ebay. Is it possible to replace my plastic intake pipe with the aluminum pipe from the ebay kit? Is it a direct replacement for the stock, or are the measurements different?

The intake pipe I want to use is pictured below:

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

An OEM stock rubber intake pipe is your best option believe it or not. There are at least two part numbers for one of these: one for the SC300 (and also GS300?) and another for MKIV Supra NA's. Both numbers reference identical physical designs.

A bolt-in aftermarket intake kit made for the SC300 and MKIV Supra NA will work just fine but since you're in California you should probably get the short ram intake from Injen... solely because it has that all-important CARB E.O. number stamped onto its side. It's no different from or better than other SC/GS/MKIV ebay intakes for the 2JZ-GE engine that accommodate your factory MAF assembly but the little number on the side means it is "better" and "legally okay" compared to nearly all identical generic ebay intakes in the eyes of your smog inspector and the ARB. The only downside is its price so definitely shop around online for a deal if you're considering one.

However an OEM rubber intake with the stock airbox is still the best setup. More resistance to heat soak with rubber vs metal and air is still drawn from outside the engine bay rather than from inside it.

booga

iTrader: (1)

Thank you @KahnBB6 for the reply. Sourcing a stock intake is proving to be more money and hard to find. But I will go that route.

The reason that I am looking to replace the intake in the first place is what i did not mention. I was told that with the cracked intake, the air drawn into the engine may not go past the MAF which may be the reason for the hesitation at acceleration, rough idle, stalling, and smell of unburnt fuel at a stop.

Is there a thread which discusses this?

Thank you.

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Luxor

iTrader: (15)

You can buy that part from your local dealership.

booga

iTrader: (1)

Luxor,

Thank you for that info. I did not realize that the intake pipe was not one piece.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

^^^ For anyone's reference, the above picture is of the OEM main rubber intake pipe for 1992-1997 SC300 models. Part number #17881-46080... which may be discontinued now. I believe 1998-2000 SC300 VVT-i's have a different part number. The pre-VVT-i GS300's may use a slightly different shape since their engine compartment is not the same. Supra MKIV NA's have the same shape engine compartment but used a slightly different shape with the same bends compared to the SC300's OEM rubber pipe... owing to a slightly different placement of their MAFs (I think).

A couple of years back I had a crack in one of the ribs in my OEM main rubber intake which led to the same rich running condition since unmetered air was being let into the intake and throwing off the ECU. I don't recall specifically any threads that discuss the issue (although I am sure they exist) but what you describe is right in line with a cracked intake section allowing in unmetered air. You may want to replace your spark plugs, cap, rotor and O2 sensors sooner than planned once you have it fixed. The longer it runs rich it will also affect the lifespan and efficiency of your #1 catalytic convertor but that does depend on just how long it's been running rich.

Good call on the small connecting pipe 17881-46100, Luxor! It does appear to still be available. If it were ever to go out of production it would be much easier to replace with a generic part.

booga

iTrader: (1)

KahnBB6,
You will note that on the picture I uploaded which you quoted, there is a foil "nest" which I placed there to catch oil dripping from the distributor stem. That leak in turn dropped into the alternator below which eventually killed it recently. So the distributor was replaced, and the leak fixed.

I will get the connecting pipe which I found a few sellers online specializing in Toyota parts.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

That leak from the distributor shaft will do it to your alternator. Expensive fix, that. Sorry you had to do that as well. I was in a rush and I admit I missed that when looking at your picture.

The connecting pipe will cure your air metering issue but it would be a good to take stock of your O2 sensors and spark plugs also. They will have been overworked for as long as that intake hose leak has been severe.

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

why'd you decide to replace the whole distributor and not just the o-ring?

tzxlyd

I hate to jump in on someone else's thread but I have a slightly different problem -- my intake seems to be buckling inward and I do not understand how or why that could happen. Does anyone know that answer? The pic was taken a month ago and it is getting larger -- more sunken inward for some reason. There shouldn't be any heat in that area shouldn't there?

booga

iTrader: (1)

Mrmj2u,
In the course of troubleshooting this inconsistent air/fuel issue the distributor at some point was mentioned. In hindsight, i guess it was over-kill.

booga

iTrader: (1)

From the picture you posted, it looks like a hot pipe is in contact with the plastic.

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

That makes sense!

Returd

self amalgamating tape is a better temporary material than duct tape. I've fixed a blown heater hose with it.

Returd

Nice hot air intake