Deegee

iTrader: (1)

My dome light/door warning light on the cluster is indicating that my door is open but they're not. Both doors have been repeatedly shut firm and the problem still persists. I suspect it has something to do with a sensor or perhaps a fuse but I haven't had much time to evaluate the issue until tonight. As of right now, I've unplugged the battery to prevent a dead battery. I've had some trouble locating threads regarding this issue, would anybody happen to have any advice on what to evaluate first?

Thanks.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Some cars have a plunger that gets depressed when the door is closed, signalling such. I don't think the SC has that, but I'd have to double check to be sure. I'm thinking our signal would be in the latch mechanism of the lock actuator.

The door-open signal probably travels from the same source the courtesy light hooks up to; one end goes to the actuator, the other end to the footwell junction box. I'm not sure how useful that is, though, because it looks like the red/white wire just goes to a 6-pin connector. Unless it tees off somewhere, there must be a second wire transmitting the door-open signal.

salimshah

I have not had a need to look at this in the SC, but other Lexus have 'door lock actuator' .. a device in the door that grabs the hook in the jamb and then makes a connection in the switch. This switch then signals the ECU that the door is closed shut. Another set of wires controls the lock motor.

First thing would be is to look at the door ajar icon in the dash.

Then trace the wires in the door and or the actuator.

Salim

Deegee

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to check the drive side kick panel fuses and engine bay fuses to make sure they're ok before I start troubleshooting anything in the doors. I have a feeling that this problem might be related to the kick panel fuses.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Can't hurt to check the easy stuff first, but I'd be very surprised if a fuse turns out to be the explanation.

Deegee

iTrader: (1)

Is the lock actuator the white box inside the door that connects the door handles and locks to it? When you say the courtesy lights, do you mean the ones that shine when you open the doors by your feet?

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Yes.

The lights on the doors, not the one down in the footwell, although that's probably wired up to the same signal.

Deegee

iTrader: (1)

I picked up a door actuator. I'm gonna replace one of my doors tomorrow. Does anybody know how to diagnose which actuator has failed? I picked up a passenger side actuator, perhaps they're not interchangable between sides. Regardless, I'll be replacing my passenger first.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

They're specific to each door.

Deegee

iTrader: (1)

Thank you.

Here are a few things I've done to try and troubleshoot this.

Unplugged the actuator harness on each door, closed both doors firmly shut. Light still on.

Plugged one door back up. Hooked new actuator up to the other door and simulated it locking by engaging the locking mechanism. Tried this on both doors and light still on.

Question, can the dome light/cluster light turn on if the hood or trunk is open?
Where else should I be looking if both the actuators are good?

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I still think it's something in the signal, which is as likely to be in the wiring as in the actuator itself. Have you pulled the wiring grommet through the footwell to see if there are breaks or shorts in the wire? I assume the lack of a connection in that signal path tells it the door is open.

If someone knows which wire transmits that signal, that would be a good place to start.

Deegee

iTrader: (1)

I have not taken a part the carpet to check the foot panel fuse boxes and wires. That's my next step. But since I have no idea what I'm looking for under there, I haven't begun that yet.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

If you've never done it before, here's the gist: Pry up the long plastic door sill trim piece that finishes off the edge of the carpet and weatherstrip. Use a couple flathead screwdrivers to pry the carpet up out of the clips. Pull back the carpet. It has two slotted clips on the back. One slides up, the other slides back to release.

Then there are 2 or 3 wiring connectors plugged in whose bundles lead to the door. Unplug those, pry out the grommet they pass through in the body, and fish the connectors through the hole one at a time.

At the other end, I believe (unless there's a better way) you have to remove the door speaker, peel up the lower part of the plastic rain shield behind it, and un-tape/un-clip the plastic wire tray that holds everything snug through that space. Once you have slack in the wires, pry out the grommet on the door and un-tape everything so the accordion grommet moves freely at either end for inspecting the wires. If you end up needing to replace a torn grommet, which wouldn't surprise me if it turns out you have a damaged wire, you need to de-pin the connectors so the wires can be pulled through. Be sure to mark what goes where!

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

OP - you will be chasing your tail , wasting a lot of money and time guessing and replacing parts that are not supposed to be replaced or doing work you are not even suppose to do if you haven't checked the wiring diagrams. The wiring diagrams are your best friends when it comes to electrical problems otherwise you will be playing the guessing game as many do . Just by analyzing the wiring diagrams and the symptoms one has , he or she would know right away what to check if one knows what the hell he or she is doing .

Question for you :

When both doors are closed and assuming that your door panels light do work , is there any of the door panels light lit ? IF none , then there is nothing wrong in any of those door open detection switches. Any door panel light that is lit even when all doors are closed means that the door open detection switch on that side of the car is bad. BTW , the SC has a complex door actuator mechanism. It incorporates the Door Lock Motor , Door Unlock Detection Switch and Door Open Detection Switch which works hand in hand with the Theft Deterrent ECU , Wireless Door Lock ECU and the Integration Relay . The door open detection switch is what completes the circuits of the door panel lights. It connects the circuit to ground so they should light up when the corresponding door opens and vice versa, the light cut off when the door is closed since it opens the circuit provided that the switch is good.

If both door panel lights are not lit when both doors are firmly closed and yet your dome light and cluster light for open door are lit then I will suspect the integration relay that controls the cluster and dome light. Their circuitries are separate from the door open detection switch. But before you even replace it , got to make sure and evaluate other symptoms so you don't waste time and money on it. The Integration Relay isn't a simple relay as its name implies. It is one of the most complex components that tie together a lot of electrical stuff on the SC. In fact it is hard to reach and replace. It is behind the fuse box on your driver side kick panel. It has a dimension of 2" x 3" more or less and have seen it in yellow or black or green in color depending on the year of your SC.

Let me know and we go from there .

Deegee

iTrader: (1)

Gerbb,

I don't have any door panel lights in there currently, but I'll see what I can do to rig something up and determine if the door panel lights activate on when the doors are open/closed. Thanks for the tip to determine which actuator is bad, I've searched endlessly to find this information and couldn't come across anything to determine how to test which actuator isn't working proplery unless the locks aren't engadging - which mine (locks) are. Where can I find wiring diagrams? I'm no expert in reading them myself but I know somebody that can.

I'll look into this soon.