Rough Idle after 5 year start
09-28-16, 07:46 PM
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Rough Idle after 5 year start
Hi guys, Im new on this forum and my English is bad, so go easy 
I bought a almost scrap SC400 '92 from a mechanic where the car sat for more than 5 years. The previous owner didn't care anymore, so bingo for me I bought the car for 200 bucks. Well the car and the rat and cockroach nest that came with it. But I didn't car because I only needed the engine for my Supra mk3. But after months passing I started to like the SC more and more and now I just want to keep both cars en restore both.
Until no I:
Serviced the starter
Unstuck the engine
replaced rotors and distributer caps
replaced sparkplug and wires
serviced injectors, also replaced rubber.. couldn't find those rubbers local. (I live in Surinam) So improvised with clutch rubbers and worked great.
blew al gas lines clean with air and carb cleaner
replaced fuel pump an fuel filter
replaced timing belt an rollers
cleaned trottle body and intake
serviced IAC
replaced ECU, with a reconditioned one
That;s it till now. Still have to clean airflow sensor and have read about removing the EGR, still dont know about that. I also have to replace my knock sensor,only CEL im getting on that.
But the car Idles real rough like heavy breathing. Just almost wants to die and then revs up again.
Could this be caused by the dirty airflowsensor, EGR or knocksensor?
Your help is really appriciated
I bought a almost scrap SC400 '92 from a mechanic where the car sat for more than 5 years. The previous owner didn't care anymore, so bingo for me I bought the car for 200 bucks. Well the car and the rat and cockroach nest that came with it. But I didn't car because I only needed the engine for my Supra mk3. But after months passing I started to like the SC more and more and now I just want to keep both cars en restore both.
Until no I:
Serviced the starter
Unstuck the engine
replaced rotors and distributer caps
replaced sparkplug and wires
serviced injectors, also replaced rubber.. couldn't find those rubbers local. (I live in Surinam) So improvised with clutch rubbers and worked great.
blew al gas lines clean with air and carb cleaner
replaced fuel pump an fuel filter
replaced timing belt an rollers
cleaned trottle body and intake
serviced IAC
replaced ECU, with a reconditioned one
That;s it till now. Still have to clean airflow sensor and have read about removing the EGR, still dont know about that. I also have to replace my knock sensor,only CEL im getting on that.
But the car Idles real rough like heavy breathing. Just almost wants to die and then revs up again.
Could this be caused by the dirty airflowsensor, EGR or knocksensor?
Your help is really appriciated
09-29-16, 06:33 AM
#2
It sounds like your timing is off since you mentioned you did the timing belt i'd double check that.
Make sure the distrubutor is stabbed correctly.
I can't really comment on what you did with the fuel injectors but i guess the MAF could be a cause but be very careful cleaning it don't touch any of the metal lines inside theres a spray for it but i'm leaning timing related.
Make sure the distrubutor is stabbed correctly.
I can't really comment on what you did with the fuel injectors but i guess the MAF could be a cause but be very careful cleaning it don't touch any of the metal lines inside theres a spray for it but i'm leaning timing related.
09-29-16, 12:14 PM
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Thanks for your advice! I'll clean the MAF and check the timing.
But I doubt the timing. The crank mark lined up and both cam marks lined up. After 2 crank rotations they lined up again. So that has to be good right?
But I doubt the timing. The crank mark lined up and both cam marks lined up. After 2 crank rotations they lined up again. So that has to be good right?
09-29-16, 05:11 PM
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Well it is sure lacking power but is revs pretty good.
I forgot to mention that when the engine is cold its really hard to start. For example yesterday I tried to fired it up and it would just turn over and struggle somewhat but it didn't start. So to help it start I injected some fuel into the throttle body trough one of the vacuumholes, and the car started right up. When the engine got on temp. the car started real easy. but with the rough idle, like real heavy breathing..
What I also didnt mension is when idling, it almost dies. But just on the last moment you think it will die now the CEL pops on. The idle goes up en tge CEL goes out. When the idle goed down again the CEL pops on again.
I'll clean the MAF tomorrow.. hopefully this will help some.
I forgot to mention that when the engine is cold its really hard to start. For example yesterday I tried to fired it up and it would just turn over and struggle somewhat but it didn't start. So to help it start I injected some fuel into the throttle body trough one of the vacuumholes, and the car started right up. When the engine got on temp. the car started real easy. but with the rough idle, like real heavy breathing..
What I also didnt mension is when idling, it almost dies. But just on the last moment you think it will die now the CEL pops on. The idle goes up en tge CEL goes out. When the idle goed down again the CEL pops on again.
I'll clean the MAF tomorrow.. hopefully this will help some.
10-10-16, 07:10 PM
#7
How many miles on the engine? Did you flush out the fuel tank? Did you check the fuel tank for Rust? Rust could be plugging the fuel pump sock.
An area that gets no attention is the cold idle intake. On my 1992 it is in front of the intake manifold. It has a coolant hose to it and it allows air to bypass the TPS when cold. Inside is a plunger that gets carbon buildup. The same as the EGR-carbon build up. Both need to be cleaned every 150,000 miles.
Get a short jumper wire and bypass the Fuel pump control box. By the intake manifold is a computer hookup, it will have a black cap. Inside the Cap identifies each connector. Connect FP to +B. This provides 12 volts to the fuel pump.
If it still running poorly, then pull the main computer and look for leaking Capacitors.
Use the Search box for more ideas.
An area that gets no attention is the cold idle intake. On my 1992 it is in front of the intake manifold. It has a coolant hose to it and it allows air to bypass the TPS when cold. Inside is a plunger that gets carbon buildup. The same as the EGR-carbon build up. Both need to be cleaned every 150,000 miles.
Get a short jumper wire and bypass the Fuel pump control box. By the intake manifold is a computer hookup, it will have a black cap. Inside the Cap identifies each connector. Connect FP to +B. This provides 12 volts to the fuel pump.
If it still running poorly, then pull the main computer and look for leaking Capacitors.
Use the Search box for more ideas.
Last edited by DA51; 10-11-16 at 08:17 AM.
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10-10-16, 07:14 PM
#8
Do Not clean with any kind of solvent inside the pipe where the MAF is at. I had a 1989 Supra Turbo after 6 yrs I saw some reside inside the area of the MAF. I used solvent on a rag and wiped it clean. The fumes wiped out the MAF. It cost me $618 for a new one.
A very expensive lesson. If you do damage it you and find a good one in the salvage yards.
A very expensive lesson. If you do damage it you and find a good one in the salvage yards.
09-06-17, 07:42 PM
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How many miles on the engine? Did you flush out the fuel tank? Did you check the fuel tank for Rust? Rust could be plugging the fuel pump sock.
An area that gets no attention is the cold idle intake. On my 1992 it is in front of the intake manifold. It has a coolant hose to it and it allows air to bypass the TPS when cold. Inside is a plunger that gets carbon buildup. The same as the EGR-carbon build up. Both need to be cleaned every 150,000 miles.
Get a short jumper wire and bypass the Fuel pump control box. By the intake manifold is a computer hookup, it will have a black cap. Inside the Cap identifies each connector. Connect FP to +B. This provides 12 volts to the fuel pump.
If it still running poorly, then pull the main computer and look for leaking Capacitors.
Use the Search box for more ideas.
An area that gets no attention is the cold idle intake. On my 1992 it is in front of the intake manifold. It has a coolant hose to it and it allows air to bypass the TPS when cold. Inside is a plunger that gets carbon buildup. The same as the EGR-carbon build up. Both need to be cleaned every 150,000 miles.
Get a short jumper wire and bypass the Fuel pump control box. By the intake manifold is a computer hookup, it will have a black cap. Inside the Cap identifies each connector. Connect FP to +B. This provides 12 volts to the fuel pump.
If it still running poorly, then pull the main computer and look for leaking Capacitors.
Use the Search box for more ideas.
woww neglected my car for the last months. So did I for this forum.. Im such a d*ck.. but I thank everybody for there responds.
but it found the problem. There where multiple.
One of them was the rust. My tank had more rust on the inside then the the titanic under water!! So hooked up a temparary mequiver tank made of a jerry tank. Engine run much much much better.
But not the best balanced v8 i read about.
So someting tells me do a compression test. An oila, the first cilinder on the left bank has ZERO compression... ZERO...!! Did a wet test. Still zero. Did a second wet test.. BOOMMM ..getting compression. The piston rings must have gotten loose with the oil of the wet test.
And finally.. saved from the junk yard.. the 1uzfe is running
09-07-17, 05:07 PM
#10
Do Not clean with any kind of solvent inside the pipe where the MAF is at. I had a 1989 Supra Turbo after 6 yrs I saw some reside inside the area of the MAF. I used solvent on a rag and wiped it clean. The fumes wiped out the MAF. It cost me $618 for a new one.
A very expensive lesson. If you do damage it you and find a good one in the salvage yards.
A very expensive lesson. If you do damage it you and find a good one in the salvage yards.
09-08-17, 01:39 PM
#11
those maf's don't have wires, they are karman type and residue got on the mirror inside it and generally they don't work right again after that unless you can get it spotless but its sort of difficult to do cause its buried deep in the plastic tube in the middle.
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