RXRodger

iTrader: (2)

Man, this sounds like a real PITA which I would not have expected. The one I wanted to do this job on is my 92 so maybe it wouldn't be an issue, but you have almost talked me out of it and just hope my crappy welds and pads hold it all in place.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I'm definitely curious to hear from people with '95+ models that have done the swap. So far, my experience and the few examples I know of for '92-94s is that the mounts slide right off.

It was only my second most fruitless car task of the day, though. I traveled to buy a parts car, had cash in hand to pay the asking price, and was threatened (by phone) to be shot if I stepped on the property. I finished the day by washing the '98, just to feel like I accomplished something.

RXRodger

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like there is a story there, so why what's the deal with somebody selling a car and then threatening a would be buyer for coming to buy it?

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

He was acting weird before we left and I almost canceled the trip but decided to go ahead with it. I was dependent on the tow guy's schedule (he had been in contact with the seller so I wouldn't have to be the go-between), and he was running late. The seller was freaking out and texting him constantly on the way, and we got there 45 minutes late. By then, the texts had told us to eff-off. The car was at the brother's house. I was supposed to just give him the cash and he'd give me the title, simple as that. I got the seller on the phone, asking if the deal was still on, and got a several minute long string of expletives. He said he was going to tell his brother to go out and shoot us if we were on the property, but we were still out on the street. Quite the angry fella.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I've been working on swapping the subframe mounts on my 98 sc300, and I remembered about this thread. They do slide right off. I had to remove the bolts on both sides and lower the sub frame about an inch for the mounts to slide off and clear the studs for the brake lines.

There is a flat spot in the center of the shaft to keep the mount from twisting left and right.

If the subframe was off of the car, then I'd recommend trying a large 3 jaw puller.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

So much for that theory. It must be something peculiar about the two '95+ cars I've tried on. I had all the bolts out and the subframe lowered enough to clear the brake lines. The mounts just wouldn't budge. A big jaw puller sounds like a good idea.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I know you mentioned soaking it in PB blaster, but maybe a product like CRC freeze off (or comparable product) would be better suited for this situation. I would spray it with freeze off and smack it with a huge hammer. I have a 4 pound block of steel welded to a pipe to correct situations like this. lol

A large 3 jaw puller should work, but due to the size it would be really hard to use it under the car. Find a socket you don't care about or metal plate to pull against to protect the original shaft.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I'll make a note of that to try next time I feel like jacking up the car and removing the sway bar just on the off chance the mounts will come loose this time. I've got a small sledge hammer that would get its point across.

tenac2215

were you ever able to get the mount off? I'm having the same problem with mine right now. Driver side slid right off but passenger side sleeve is seized to the subframe in the same way. Been prying all night, so much that the rubber of the mount is starting to tear off of the collar lol.

tenac2215

welp managed to get it off last night. Took a chisel to where the inner collar contacted the subframe and just wailed with a mini sledge. That in combo with a ton of pb blaster the night before finally got it to come off

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I haven't reattempted mine, but glad to hear the chisel worked on a stuck one. Sounds like the problem may be the mount fusing to the subframe rather than to the shaft.

tenac2215

i agree, I think the metal to metal contact of the inner metal sleeve of the mount and the edge of the subframe is what was seized together

Returd

I have the rear subframe off of my 92. I didn't even try to move the problem bolts but instead removed the entire bushing mount (4 bolts per mount). After my experience with the control arm bolts (steel fasteners through aluminum sleeves) I knew they'd be a problem. This is galvanic corrosion at work, two dissimilar metals causing corrosion. If the sleeves were steel instead of aluminum it wouldn't be a problem.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

look up the anodic index of different metals

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

That's generally not recommended because of the added difficulty of realigning the subframe with both mounts unbolted simultaneously.

tenac2215

im guessing returd had the entire subframe off for different reasons than us haha. In our case it would be unwise to bring the whole subframe down.