rear subframe mounts won't budge
#17
It was only my second most fruitless car task of the day, though. I traveled to buy a parts car, had cash in hand to pay the asking price, and was threatened (by phone) to be shot if I stepped on the property. I finished the day by washing the '98, just to feel like I accomplished something.
#19
He was acting weird before we left and I almost canceled the trip but decided to go ahead with it. I was dependent on the tow guy's schedule (he had been in contact with the seller so I wouldn't have to be the go-between), and he was running late. The seller was freaking out and texting him constantly on the way, and we got there 45 minutes late. By then, the texts had told us to eff-off. The car was at the brother's house. I was supposed to just give him the cash and he'd give me the title, simple as that. I got the seller on the phone, asking if the deal was still on, and got a several minute long string of expletives. He said he was going to tell his brother to go out and shoot us if we were on the property, but we were still out on the street. Quite the angry fella.
#20
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
There is a flat spot in the center of the shaft to keep the mount from twisting left and right.
If the subframe was off of the car, then I'd recommend trying a large 3 jaw puller.
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t2d2 (05-28-17)
#22
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
I know you mentioned soaking it in PB blaster, but maybe a product like CRC freeze off (or comparable product) would be better suited for this situation. I would spray it with freeze off and smack it with a huge hammer. I have a 4 pound block of steel welded to a pipe to correct situations like this. lol
A large 3 jaw puller should work, but due to the size it would be really hard to use it under the car. Find a socket you don't care about or metal plate to pull against to protect the original shaft.
A large 3 jaw puller should work, but due to the size it would be really hard to use it under the car. Find a socket you don't care about or metal plate to pull against to protect the original shaft.
#24
were you ever able to get the mount off? I'm having the same problem with mine right now. Driver side slid right off but passenger side sleeve is seized to the subframe in the same way. Been prying all night, so much that the rubber of the mount is starting to tear off of the collar lol.
#25
were you ever able to get the mount off? I'm having the same problem with mine right now. Driver side slid right off but passenger side sleeve is seized to the subframe in the same way. Been prying all night, so much that the rubber of the mount is starting to tear off of the collar lol.
#27
i agree, I think the metal to metal contact of the inner metal sleeve of the mount and the edge of the subframe is what was seized together
#28
Intermediate
I have the rear subframe off of my 92. I didn't even try to move the problem bolts but instead removed the entire bushing mount (4 bolts per mount). After my experience with the control arm bolts (steel fasteners through aluminum sleeves) I knew they'd be a problem. This is galvanic corrosion at work, two dissimilar metals causing corrosion. If the sleeves were steel instead of aluminum it wouldn't be a problem.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
look up the anodic index of different metals
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
look up the anodic index of different metals
Last edited by Returd; 09-25-17 at 06:24 PM.
#30
im guessing returd had the entire subframe off for different reasons than us haha. In our case it would be unwise to bring the whole subframe down.