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I have a leak at between the engine and firewall. I can see where it's dripping down on the bellhousing, but cannot see which hose is leaking. Can someone point me to a hose diagram or photos of their own past experience with this? Thank you!
At the back of the head is a heater hose. In the photo it attaches to the tube at the middle. There is a clamp, difficult to get to, that could have moved, or the hose is torn in some way. I would start there.
You'll need to remove the rear plastic cover that spans across the camshaft/valve covers. Here's a JDM 2jzge that shows it all...
The leak could also be at the metal to rubber lines that you see on the lower right. That's at the back of the exhaust manifold.
thanks, y'all. And freakness, thank you for the photos. Big help. Not looking forward to this. Hopefully, once that cover is off, it's more accessible. Right now, it would be a braille operation.
I bought that OEM hose and the OEM clamps a few months back just in case. I do not look forward to dealing with that... if I even have to. Hope you get through it without issue, OP!
I wanted to post here rather than start a new thread.
This has now happened to me as of last night. The large heater connection hose and/or clamp at the back of my 2JZ-GE cylinder head has finally started to go and somewhat quickly causing coolant to leak over the back of the engine whenever the clamp and hose are allowed to contract once they begin to cool down after shutting off the engine. I am taking my car into the shop tomorrow to have it replaced.
I have a new OEM hose and new clamps, plus a couple of other heater core and HCV hoses if needed but does anyone have any advice I can go in with getting this serviced? The coolant needs draining and replacement of course but other than the rear spark plug cover what about the ECU harness above this or the tight clearance? Did Toyota have any special tool or procedure for replacing this rear cylinder head hose?
I never did come back and post after completing the task. It actually wasn't that difficult. After removing the cover at the back of the head (four bolts), all it took was a pair of bent-nose needle-nose pliers to release the clamp. It took a little wiggling and perseverance, but it wasn't the nightmare everyone said. More trouble to make sure I had the right hose. Most of the local parts stores had more than one listed.
^^ jlamonica, thanks for replying and very good to know! In my case I have the tools but couldn't afford the downtime so I'm just having it done today.
The correct hose from Toyota/Lexus is 87245-24300 and the two OEM tension clamps are 90467-22011
I have changed all 4 hoses. It's a real PITA I tell you. Don't go with the factory clamps, once you deal with the factory clamps in this situation you will want to fly to Japan and kick some Japanese engineer right in the cods. Buy a good quality stainless steel worm hose clamp to go back on for all connections. And no need to buy dealer hoses unless you just like the idea of that, buy good quality Gates or Goodyear they will last just fine. In a couple of the connections the hoses were stuck really good and I had to just cut off and clean the connection. Be very careful pulling or twisting on the connections to the heater core, they are very thin and fragile and easily bent. Figuring out how to orient the hoses so they don't rub is another watch out. Take some good pictures, there is very little margin in how they route/twist to make sure you keep the clearance and won't cause problems later.
The 2JZ is loads easier to get to than the 1JZ then. I ended up pulling my motor and trans to get to it. It exits the back of the head horizontally and to toward the intake valve side on the 1JZ. You guys are lucky
My advice is to go to autozone and buy pre-bent heater hose that would fit your configuration best. I used universal hose and just winged it for my first 1JZ attempt and I never had good heater core flow until I rummaged through the heater hose shelf and found a a pre-bent hose that would fit well for cheap.
Unless you just pony up and feel like spending on an OEM hose. Your call.
I never did come back and post after completing the task. It actually wasn't that difficult. After removing the cover at the back of the head (four bolts), all it took was a pair of bent-nose needle-nose pliers to release the clamp. It took a little wiggling and perseverance, but it wasn't the nightmare everyone said. More trouble to make sure I had the right hose. Most of the local parts stores had more than one listed.
I know this post is old but do you happen to have the model/size of pliers you used? I'm trying to changing this god awful hose on my GS300 and I can't get on that clamp with any of my pliers or with a flexible extended hose clamp.
So just to follow up, I got a set of flexible hose clamp pliers from Carcraft that worked well enough to get that goddamn clamp off. I also removed the throttle body to give myself more room to work. What a pain it was.
06-18-16, 04:26 PM
93 SC300 2JZ heater hose leak at back of engine
