LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

Ali, this is where I'm at right now, took most of the plastic pieces off the harness and trying to figure out what I really do t need In this car: the egr wires will be deleted all the way from the plug since Jdm don't have emissions right?( no emissions here in idndiana)
Then ac wires going to go too
I want to basically delete everything that's not needed.
All of the sensors are plugged in so the ones that left off are injectors and must be egr stuff

Ok this engine has 2 oxygen sensors with only 1 wire going to each one, can I shorten these wires, so they don't have to go all the way around the engine and from the firewall straight to the downpipe??
And idle valve controll wires are exra long may have to shorten them too to make it cleaner

Ali you don't know how impatient I'm to get this baby running, my adrenaline gets pumpin every time I think about starting this beast for the first time, but I know I can't rush into this, because I want it to be reliable as possible for daily 380-400wp for now, untill I find bigger injectors and then who knows what
I got 440s from mk3 for now, I would like to get it running nicely and then go from there to see where it takes me,

Ali you've been more than help man just the diagram itself opens the doors for many possibilities with the Jdm ecus and piggybacks and standalones


I'm definitely following you step by step!!!

A BIG THANK YOU!!!!!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

there is only a temp sensor probe connector for the egr, the rest is all mechanical and vacuum lines.

a/c and stuff never removed all the extra wiring before, sounds straight forward but again never done it.

o2 sensors you can run new wires and just remove those or cut them but be sure to also disconnect at ecu.
your heated o2 sensor you install will need 4 wires anyways, so its up to you, I reused the stock signal wire and ran the other 3 separate but that was just out of laziness at the time.

be sure to install the resistor pack with those mk3 440's, otherwise they are good injectors.

Your welcome just pass the info along anytime you see someone trying to na-t with a non turbo ecu

scblackout

iTrader: (2)

If you were to be looking to purchase new/refurb 440cc high imp plug 'n play injectors, which ones would be considered the best available? link? I don't want to purchase old mk3 injectors, and so far I've had a hard time finding the best choice. Intention is just to get the car running with the ecu-mod, make sure all is well and then use the mapecu with larger injectors. Even though it seems that some of the JDM ecu's seem to handle the 550's on their own, I'd just rather keep it as simple as possible for now. I have already purchased the 92-94 lower runner, assuming I can use my 96 fuel rail.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I don't have a go to one to order, you will have to shop around. there were some aftermarket options like RC but the part numbers were confusing, not sure it was ever figured out.

the JDM ecu cannot handle 550cc on its own, that is a myth. it will idle and drive around, but it will wash out the spark in boost and boost will build slower cause its running so rich, it will feel laggy and bad. you will ned a fuel controller. honestly if you are going to go 550cc later, just do it now with a simple fuel controller.

I am going to send you a link for some 500cc and 550cc injectors that are good, they don't have 440cc right now.

scblackout

iTrader: (2)

I'm glad to see a definitive answer about the JDM using 550's without a controller. It was rather confusing as it seemed a few people said it worked and others said it didn't. I already have the mapecu so that won't be an issue.

I went ahead and purchased the 550's from the link you sent me and they should arrive early next week.

Another question:
Now that I am using the 550's, is it best to just go with the denso tt fuel pump, or should I look for something a little bigger?

I ask because I read a lot of dyno threads and it seems a lot of people run out of fuel, either injectors or on the pump side. I don't plan on going larger than 550cc in the near future, but do want to make sure that whatever pump setup I go with will be more than up to the job.

If I go with the tt pump, can I also use the USDM TT fuel pump ecu, or am I better off going with a relay? I don't even know if I can mix a JDM ecu with a USDM fuel ecu. Primarily I am trying to keep this as plug 'n play reliable as possible.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yeah lots of people say confusing stuff, do not listen to JDM fanboys that have never driven a good running car
Some of those guys don't even have a wide band installed... they are just happy if the car turns on and drives around.
I set my bar a lot higher than that.

if you are staying on pump for the 550cc just go with the denso pump, can't go wrong with that.
do the 12v mod with the relay off the stock fuel ecu and you should have more than enough pressure/flow for that. really past what you can do on 550's you should be switching to e85 and a standalone most likely to get the most benefit. the 550's is a good match for the stock fuel system and a denso or walboro pump, the denso being the better choice obviously.

The JDM ecu controls the stock fuel ecu just like stock, and I run a walboro on the stock fuel ecu no problem. I have heard though that the denso pulls more current so it will fry the stock fuel ecu, so I would run a relay off the battery and use the stock fuel ecu to trigger it, so you get full 12v and retain safety features of the fuel ecu.

you could install and use a supra tt fuel ecu, and then run the pump off of that, but thats extra wiring and plugs you will have to aquire and figre out, I believe Kahn is doing this on his so maybe ask him if he has the wiring side figured out. the advantage here is that using the fuel ecu you will have 9v at lower revs so it wont be as noisy, but fuel and performance wise, the 12v mod with relay is going to give you the most flow up top where you need it.

so you could do either way, but yeah if using a denso tt pump, there i a decent chance it can fry the stock GE fuel ecu, so either swap for a tt unit and wire etc... or do 12v mod with relay off stock ge fuel ecu.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

ALIGURU!
Hope you are well!
I got throttle cable 78180-60590. I think it is for a Land Cruiser. I was told it would work well for your FFIM but I did not verify this with you. Does this one look good?
It's all going to my awesome welding guy in Kansas today!

Thanks Again!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

That is the one, v8 landcruiser. long enough to put the throttle body wherever you want in the engine bay.
Good luck sounds like it'll come out great!

I usually order these for the FFIM
78180-60590 : throttle cable for V8 Landcruiser
44337-24020 : Union for power steering pump
90301-11016 : O-Ring for union

and then the part numbers for the iacv check valve stuff
25748-88400 valve, check
90210-25001 rubber washer
22278-46010 gasket, iac

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

That was quite generous. Thank you. You saved me loads of time on this upgrade. I just ordered all of this.

Will i have to relocate my oil filter and power steering reservoir somehow?

Thank You!

shajbot

iTrader: (3)

Just a quick question guys, is there anyone that make SC 2jzge turbo manifold that has two oxygen sensors mounting locations pre-turbo?

If I take a log type or a tubular type and drill out two holes before the turbo flange to install o2 sensors would this work?

I'm trying to create a setup that is the most simple reliable, maximum drivability with stock ecu with low boost of course. I'm in emission required state, and I'm obd2 so I need something to work so that when it comes time I can just unbolt the manifold and reuse the stock ones. TT ecu works and I tried im still looking for a more convienent method. With Hotwire type MAF (sucked through or blow thru?) ecu can see effectively several pound of boost. I can upgrade to a TT MAF to see more boost but now it's not a linear scale and I have to use an emu and that's not the goal here.

I tried merging the output wire of bank1 s1 to bank2 s1 together and it works for throwing no cel but one bank would diverge so much in closed loop. I have a aem afr gage in bank2 and the afr just swing all over the place when it's in learn mode (no turbo) I think it's just due to the ecu trying to correct for fuel trim but it keeps seeing a certain lean/rich condition no matter how much it adds or subtract fuel. My solution for this is to keep both banks o2 sensors separated.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I would normally stick them in the downpipe post turbo. I don't splice the signals together it doesn't seem to work 100% right when I tried it.
you could have bungs welded on your current turbo manifold, but its easier to thread them into a downpipe, it wont affect the readings, just the wires might need extending for the front o2. some of the log manifolds might have 2 already on them, but they could be a different kind than stock most aftermarket are screw in and alot of the factory sensors are bolt on.
just depends would need more info.. so you remove the turbo manifold every so often and go back to stock?

shajbot

iTrader: (3)

The issue with sticking both pre cat o2 sensors into the downpipe is that the stock ecu is still a two bank system and it will try to adjust fuel trim for the individual banks and it expects a certain response and it's very accurate, the feedback won't work and ecu will freak out.

Do you think putting a o2 sensor in a single runner from each bank would work? Does the ecu read air/fuel ratio as a ratio or does it read x amount of air and it assume a certain amount of flow? If I do put the bungs too close to the collector now the two banks also merge around the same area that would be nearly the same as putting them both in the downpipe and thus negate the feedback response.

shajbot

iTrader: (3)

Found a pic of the DaveH manifold and I'd say this is exactly what I need. I'd put a bung in each collector and put each bank o2 sensor in there. Stock ecu should be happy.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Sorry that is inaccurate, sticking both in the downpipe works just fine, you just loose individual bank correction, as in the ecu is adjusting both banks off the total trim just like it would be with one o2 sensor correcting both banks. the response time is not affected much at all, all of us run the o2 after the turbo and have not noticed any hit in response time.

no I would not put it on a single runner from each bank, it might fluctuate too much. either do 2 before the turbo each for 3 cylinders, or stick both after the turbo in the downpipe about an inch away from each other, they should be close. it will be fine, you are overthinking it. the key is not to splice o2's keep the right amount of real o2's you need plu a wideband.
so JDM ecu you would run 1 o2 and one wideband, USDM I would put 2 o2's and one wideband in the downpipe. make sure they are at least 5" away from the turbo.

Yes Dave-h had one of the original log ish designs that retained both bungs, just like the original name brand kits that came out from japan that you can't find any more.
Thing is these are like unicorns, he no longer makes them and they are near impossible to track down.

treadstone makes a log manifold, not sure how many bungs it has but as I said, even on the usdm one, you dont need to have it like stock. stick both in the downpipe and it will average all 6 cylinders for each bank, sure its not the same granularity as having a reading on 2 sets of 3 cylinders, but if your injectors are good and igniton etc... really you wont have much variation between cylinders, and the stock ecu runs so rich it doesn't even matter at all to be honest. now if you were pushing 1000hp on e85 I would say maybe individual cylinder correction would be nice,but still most people only use a singl wideband on all 6 runners. the 2jz runs very even across cylinders, its an inline motor so really there is just one bank toyota just decided to go overkill due to emissions... which is why the JDM is map sensor and only has 1 o2 correction, it was not about performance, the extra o2 and maf on the USDM model was about cutting down on US emissions, because a maf is much more accurate for fueling and the extra o2's just make it run better when something goes wrong.

scblackout

iTrader: (2)

Ali:
I seem to remember reading in a few places that you are using a JDM ecu + 550cc + mapecu. I'm hoping that is still the case as I could use a little assistance in wiring up the patch harness for the JDM ecu + the mapecu. Where I run into real questions is how I should properly wire in for the is300 coils into my 96 Cali 5sp sc300.

I don't believe a modified wiring pinout diagram for the sc300/400 tt ecu mod with IS300 coils currently exists on the mapecu site. I definitely was not able to find a 'base' map download that would be setup for the IS300 coil mod, so at the moment I have no idea where to start properly. Are you able to help with how the 18 pin mapecu connector should be wired in, along with a basemap for 550cc's + is300 coils on JDM? (I'm assuming this is already your setup)

Here is what I was able to find.

1. This is the pinout for the supra USDM gte with 6 coils where you can see they are all 'intercepted' by the mapecu
   
2. This is the pinout for the JDM Supra GE -- I know that pin b66 needs to be moved to b62
   
3. This is the pinout for the is300 with coilpacks -- obviously a different ecu connection
   
   
   

Here is just my educated guess:
From the tt ecu mod thread using is300 coils

• b52 + b57 need to be spliced together -- plugs into t1 on the igniter -- this wire already exists and is moved from the old igniter to the tt igniter
• b53 + b56 need to be spliced together -- plugs into t2 on the igniter -- this is a new wire run for the tt ecu mod
• b54 + b55 need to be spliced together -- plugs into t3 on the igniter -- this is a new wire run for the tt ecu mod
• I would use the 2nd diagram for the 16way plug 2jz-ge ONLY I need to move b66 to b62 for the map sensor

I am assuming that I should follow the 3rd picture is300 for the t1-t3 mapecu spliced into the igniter?
I am unsure what to do with the map sensor that would normally go to b62, as the digram shows the wire cut 'x' where I am assuming the mapecu is going to become the map sensor for the JDM ecu?


*On a side note, do you have a link to the wiring harness guide that shows what each pin does or goes to for the supra or sc? I ask because the patch harness that came with the mapecu has an extra patch wire on a1 and a33 and I was curious what he was doing with them. If I can figure out what they do, then I can make an educated guess as to what other equipment was setup.